Bartholomew Roberts
Member
I keep seeing these threads where people are spending what I would consider to be a lot of time on cleaning the AR15. So I decided to share my particular method and hope others will share their methods as well. Perhaps between all of us, we can all learn a little (either ways to save time or things we need to add to our cleaning routine).
My detail clean takes about 30 minutes. First I separate the upper, lower, charging handle and bolt carrier group. I take the bolt carrier group and separate it into the bolt, bolt carrier, cam pin, firing pin, and firing pin retaining pin.
The bolt, cam pin and firing pin go into a jar of Carbon Cutter (can also use mineral spirits). I wet a patch down with carbon cutter and push it through the bore of the rifle. I use the same patch after it goes through the bore to wipe down the exterior of the bolt carrier, the upper receiver, and the charging handle. Using a toothbrush handle and wet patch, wipe out the chromed interior of the bolt carrier, wipe out again with dry patch.
Using another patch of carbon cutter and a chamber brush, I clean the chamber and lugs. I also use toothbrushes and q-tips on this area. This is one of the few critical areas on an AR for cleanliness.
I take the lower and inspect it for any debris/spent primers. I flip it over upside down and shake it until any big chunks fall out. I also examine the individual parts for wear and tear; but do not disassemble it. I now wait about ten minutes (start another gun, inspect parts for cracks or breakage, watch TV).
Remove the bolt, cam pin and firing pin from the Carbon Cutter and wipe them down with an old t-shirt. Run some dry patches through the bore until you have removed any traces of Carbon Cutter. Wipe down the upper and charging handle with t-shirt and wipe down chamber lugs. When everything is dry, wet a patch with CLP. Give everything a protective coat of CLP and then wipe off excess. No CLP should be visible to the naked eye.
I run a .243 boresnake with CLP on the brush through the bore. One or two passes max. Using one or two drops of CLP (enough to give a visible sheen of CLP), lube the bolt and the shaft of the cam pin. Shoot some 725 degreaser into the gas key. Run a pipe cleaner through and then add a tiny drop of CLP.
Reassemble the bolt carrier group. Using a q-tip moistened with CLP, apply a visible sheen of CLP to the four rails of the bolt carrier. Reassemble and function check rifle.
My regular clean is similar, except I don't use the Carbon Cutter. I break down the gun and simply wipe off the excess grime with a t-shirt, clean the chamber with brush, dry-patches and q-tips. I bore snake the bore and reapply lube to the bolt and bolt carrier rails and I am good to go.
Some notes on the cleaning products:
I mentioned Carbon Cutter because I think it is the best product for this. You can substitute mineral spirits for this; but you'll need a lot more elbow grease and use it in a well-ventilated space.
725 Degreaser is like an eco-friendly Gun Scrubber alternative that can be used in a closed room. Smells like citrus. You can use either Gun Scribber or solvents to replace it if you like.
CLP: I use SLIP 2000 Gun Lubricant. I have used FP10 and Breakfree in the past and while all three work well, I think SLIP 2000 is clearly the best. If you use Breakfree you'll need to detail clean a bit more often (every 1k-2k rounds) as Breakfree gunks up faster than FP10 or SLIP2000.
My detail clean takes about 30 minutes. First I separate the upper, lower, charging handle and bolt carrier group. I take the bolt carrier group and separate it into the bolt, bolt carrier, cam pin, firing pin, and firing pin retaining pin.
The bolt, cam pin and firing pin go into a jar of Carbon Cutter (can also use mineral spirits). I wet a patch down with carbon cutter and push it through the bore of the rifle. I use the same patch after it goes through the bore to wipe down the exterior of the bolt carrier, the upper receiver, and the charging handle. Using a toothbrush handle and wet patch, wipe out the chromed interior of the bolt carrier, wipe out again with dry patch.
Using another patch of carbon cutter and a chamber brush, I clean the chamber and lugs. I also use toothbrushes and q-tips on this area. This is one of the few critical areas on an AR for cleanliness.
I take the lower and inspect it for any debris/spent primers. I flip it over upside down and shake it until any big chunks fall out. I also examine the individual parts for wear and tear; but do not disassemble it. I now wait about ten minutes (start another gun, inspect parts for cracks or breakage, watch TV).
Remove the bolt, cam pin and firing pin from the Carbon Cutter and wipe them down with an old t-shirt. Run some dry patches through the bore until you have removed any traces of Carbon Cutter. Wipe down the upper and charging handle with t-shirt and wipe down chamber lugs. When everything is dry, wet a patch with CLP. Give everything a protective coat of CLP and then wipe off excess. No CLP should be visible to the naked eye.
I run a .243 boresnake with CLP on the brush through the bore. One or two passes max. Using one or two drops of CLP (enough to give a visible sheen of CLP), lube the bolt and the shaft of the cam pin. Shoot some 725 degreaser into the gas key. Run a pipe cleaner through and then add a tiny drop of CLP.
Reassemble the bolt carrier group. Using a q-tip moistened with CLP, apply a visible sheen of CLP to the four rails of the bolt carrier. Reassemble and function check rifle.
My regular clean is similar, except I don't use the Carbon Cutter. I break down the gun and simply wipe off the excess grime with a t-shirt, clean the chamber with brush, dry-patches and q-tips. I bore snake the bore and reapply lube to the bolt and bolt carrier rails and I am good to go.
Some notes on the cleaning products:
I mentioned Carbon Cutter because I think it is the best product for this. You can substitute mineral spirits for this; but you'll need a lot more elbow grease and use it in a well-ventilated space.
725 Degreaser is like an eco-friendly Gun Scrubber alternative that can be used in a closed room. Smells like citrus. You can use either Gun Scribber or solvents to replace it if you like.
CLP: I use SLIP 2000 Gun Lubricant. I have used FP10 and Breakfree in the past and while all three work well, I think SLIP 2000 is clearly the best. If you use Breakfree you'll need to detail clean a bit more often (every 1k-2k rounds) as Breakfree gunks up faster than FP10 or SLIP2000.
