How many rounds down a new barrel before load development?

[wombat13]

When you have a new barrel, do you try developing an accurate load immediately or do you shoot X number of rounds and then start load development? If wait to develop a load, how many rounds do you shoot before beginning development?

I have a brand new Kimber Hunter .280AI. I'm excited to develop a hunting load for next season and get some practice in, but I also won't have much time to get to the range for the next 5 months and components can be hard to come by these days.

 

[tominboise]

I would clean the barrel and start load development. I would probably shoot a couple groups with factory ammo to see if there are any problems with the rifle itself, scope mounting, etc and to get a baseline.

 

[wombat13]

I would clean the barrel and start load development. I would probably shoot a couple groups with factory ammo to see if there are any problems with the rifle itself, scope mounting, etc and to get a baseline.

I'd like to shoot factory first, but at nearly $100/box plus shipping I'm going to have to start with my handloads.

 

[Kaldor]

When you have a new barrel, do you try developing an accurate load immediately or do you shoot X number of rounds and then start load development? If wait to develop a load, how many rounds do you shoot before beginning development?

I have a brand new Kimber Hunter .280AI. I'm excited to develop a hunting load for next season and get some practice in, but I also won't have much time to get to the range for the next 5 months and components can be hard to come by these days.

I would shoot at least ten rounds and give it a thorough cleaning before load dev. Pick a middle of the road loading that is going to be safe for your break in load, load ten, and use those for break in. Shoot 1, clean, 2, clean, 3, clean, 4, clean is what I do. Yes, the barrel will break in more over the next 50-100 shots and you will likely see a slight increase in velocity, which may or may not make a difference. You also have the benefit of getting an idea how the gun will shoot, and getting some data off the brass for shoulder bump values.

 

[N555]

I would use factory ammo to break in and burn a few boxes before starting load development.
I have noticed you will get random, excessive flyers up to the first 100 to 200 shots.
My last barrel that was hammer forged I think random and excessive flyers stopped by about shot 80 and definitely stopped after the first 100.

 

[Chuck R.]

I average about 50-60 rds before I get serious about any load development.

I almost never use factory loads, unless there's an issue and I want a "known" quantity. Usually my new "custom" barrels speed up for the 1st 50-60 rds anyway. By then I've completed barrel break-in, the rifle's zero'd, and have some fired brass form that rifles chamber.

The above works for me, but I'm not pressed for time, and my range is out my back door. Even doing barrel break-in over the course of a couple weeks isn't a bother.

 

[wombat13]

I have 50 new Nosler Custom brass and 100 each of 150 gr Hornady ELD-X, 120 gr TTSX, 140 gr TTSX. My plan was to load the 120 TTSX for whitetail next fall. It has the same sectional density as the 100 gr TTSX I'm using in .25-06 with great results.

Given that the cost of the ELD-X is half that of the TTSX, I'm thinking maybe I load up 50 with the ELD-X to break-in the barrel, get on paper, get used to shooting the light rifle, etc. and then start load development with the TTSX.

 

[Bfh_auto]

I have 50 new Nosler Custom brass and 100 each of 150 gr Hornady ELD-X, 120 gr TTSX, 140 gr TTSX. My plan was to load the 120 TTSX for whitetail next fall. It has the same sectional density as the 100 gr TTSX I'm using in .25-06 with great results.

Given that the cost of the ELD-X is half that of the TTSX, I'm thinking maybe I load up 50 with the ELD-X to break-in the barrel, get on paper, get used to shooting the light rifle, etc. and then start load development with the TTSX.

What powder are you planning to use?
I would start working a load from the beginning.

 

[JFrank]

I have 50 new Nosler Custom brass and 100 each of 150 gr Hornady ELD-X, 120 gr TTSX, 140 gr TTSX. My plan was to load the 120 TTSX for whitetail next fall. It has the same sectional density as the 100 gr TTSX I'm using in .25-06 with great results.

Given that the cost of the ELD-X is half that of the TTSX, I'm thinking maybe I load up 50 with the ELD-X to break-in the barrel, get on paper, get used to shooting the light rifle, etc. and then start load development with the TTSX.

A barrel will speed up until it’s broken in, that may take 60 rounds of it may take 100 rounds, guys can work on fire forming brass ,neck tension, seating to a degree or primer testing and some guys will start charge testing early however you may end up chasing your tail a bit when the load changes.

 

[Mini30SS]

I have 50 new Nosler Custom brass and 100 each of 150 gr Hornady ELD-X, 120 gr TTSX, 140 gr TTSX. My plan was to load the 120 TTSX for whitetail next fall. It has the same sectional density as the 100 gr TTSX I'm using in .25-06 with great results.

Given that the cost of the ELD-X is half that of the TTSX, I'm thinking maybe I load up 50 with the ELD-X to break-in the barrel, get on paper, get used to shooting the light rifle, etc. and then start load development with the TTSX.

I think you have a good plan. I would consider going with less expensive bullets for break-in, but I think you are on the right track. No use burning up cash on monolithic copper bullets for the first 50-60 rounds.

 

[wombat13]

I think you have a good plan. I would consider going with less expensive bullets for break-in, but I think you are on the right track. No use burning up cash on monolithic copper bullets for the first 50-60 rounds.

I'd like to use a less expensive bullet, but finding 7mm bullets is hard to do in my area. I can't find anything cheaper than the ELD-X I already have.

ETA: Just checked ammoseek. The only significantly cheaper bullets available online are bulk pulled bullets which I'm not interested in. Next best would be if I buy 2 boxes of Hornady interlocks for $55 but with shipping that would still bring me to $0.37 per bullet which isn't that much cheaper than the ELD-X bullets I have on hand.

 

[Mini30SS]

Your plan is good. It's to bad reloaders are still dealing with supply chain shortages and price gouging. If you lived near me I would gladly sell you a few boxes of bullets at my cost ( I think about $25 ea for Sierras or Hornady SP's). Anyway, I wish you well. Good luck with your new rifle!

 

[Blue68f100]

If the mfg has a break in procedure, follow it. I know some of the barrel mfg have a preferred procedure, are are different depending on steel, SS vs CrMo. As far as it stabilizing depends on how rough the barrel is and weather it's been lapped. Some don't take very many rounds and your ready to start. Most of the higher end barrels are lapped which cuts down on the number of rounds needed.

If you have a crony, use it for a base line. And plot it as you go. Then you will know when it's settled down.

 

[wombat13]

What powder are you planning to use?
I would start working a load from the beginning.

If I load the ELD-X to break the barrel in, then I'd likely use IMR 4831 or IMR 4350. I have plenty of both of those powders (a bit more of IMR 4831) and both appear to work pretty well with 150s according to Hodgdon and Nosler.

The TTSX is a different story. Barnes shows RL17 as the most accurate powder with 120 gr TTSX and Nosler also shows it as the most accurate powder with their 120 gr bullets. Unfortunately, I have only 1 lb. I have Hybrid 100v which all three sources I use (Barnes, Hodgdon, Nosler) indicate works well with light bullets in .280ai. I'd love to try the RL17, but who knows when I'll be able to buy more?

 

[AJC1]

Your barrel is the most dynamic for the first hundred ish rounds. If your shooting factory you really can't change before or after. If it was me, I would buy a lot of 50 pieces and use the first two loadings to condition the barrel and fire form the brass. These shots are not irrelevant in load development but there will be changes that require small adjustments. You might still be looking for your favorite powder during that breaking in period.

 

[Kingcreek]

IMO premium barrels require little or no break in compared to most lower cost production barrels.
Regardless, I give every new barrel a light polish with JB bore paste before use.
I can’t prove it, but I suspect “settling” the receiver and stock has almost as much to do with it as internal barrel conditions.

 

[Bfh_auto]

If I load the ELD-X to break the barrel in, then I'd likely use IMR 4831 or IMR 4350. I have plenty of both of those powders (a bit more of IMR 4831) and both appear to work pretty well with 150s according to Hodgdon and Nosler.

The TTSX is a different story. Barnes shows RL17 as the most accurate powder with 120 gr TTSX and Nosler also shows it as the most accurate powder with their 120 gr bullets. Unfortunately, I have only 1 lb. I have Hybrid 100v which all three sources I use (Barnes, Hodgdon, Nosler) indicate works well with light bullets in .280ai. I'd love to try the RL17, but who knows when I'll be able to buy more?

The 280 AI I built started with H1000. I was running 175s in it.
I gave it to my brother and he switched to IMR4831 and a 139SST.
IMR4831 gives excellent case fill and velocity with 139s. So it should work well with copper 120s.

 

[Varminterror]

Don’t get married on the first date, but enjoy your time together during the courtship, and eventual engagement.

Most barrels will settle in somewhere before 100-150 rounds, and whether it’s a hunting rifle or a competition rifle, I don’t have much interest most years in sitting down and burning that many rounds for nothing - especially now, with components costing 150% what they should.

So I tend to foul and burnish the barrel for 20 rounds or so, then do load work up. It’s 24-30 rounds, and I’ll see a node. The center will slide around a bit as the barrel speeds up, but at least I can make use of the rifle and ammo for those first 100-150 rounds. For my match rifle, I’ll go shoot a 1 day regional match and eat those 100 rounds, then do a node confirmation/correction test with 24 rounds again before the next match… which I do before almost every match for the same reason, throughout the life of the barrel.

I did get stuck 2 years ago and my match barrel took a dump right before a big pro series match, so I had to spin on a new barrel the Sunday before, then spend a couple days at the range burning 150 rounds plus doing my load work up to be ready to load ammo before driving 7 hours to the match on Friday.

 

[jmr40]

I wouldn't wait for the barrel to break in to start working on a load. Chances are very good the load that it likes when new, will be the same load it likes later. It will probably shoot a bit better later though. And if you do need to tweak the load later it won't need much.

 

[wombat13]

I decided to buy another box of Nosler .280ai brass from Midway and 200 145 gr Hot-Cor bullets. The Hot-Cor were only $0.30 per and I’ve heard they are pretty forgiving for Handloading since they are flat-base. Should be a nice, inexpensive way to get started with the rifle.

 

[wombat13]

Neither Nosler nor Hodgdon show data for 145 gr bullets. Nosler indicates IMR 4831 as the most accurate powder tested with 140 gr bullets and H4831sc as the most accurate with 150 gr bullets. Hodgdon shows both producing very good velocity with 140 and 150 gr bullets.

I have twice as much IMR 4831 as H4831sc, so I think I’ll try the IMR with the 145 gr Hot-Cors and save the H4831sc for the 150 gr ELD-X.