How to tell if a Smith & Wesson 27 is one of the nice ones?

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Pinned barrel and recessed cylinder is what to look for. That said, my 27-3 is a great gun, despite not having those features, and I can't tell the difference between it and my 27-2 when shooting it.
 
My initial response to this question is, "If you have to ask, then it's not one of the good ones."
 
I have a 4 inch that is not P&R, forget what dash it is. Bult like a tank & a smoking blueing. There are 6 in ,5 in & 3.5 inch models & other variations. The S&W forum has lots of info. 3.5 inch seems to be the most desireable.
 
The "Registered Magnum" (1935-1939), Pre-war Magnum (1939-1941), Post-war 357 (1948-1957), Model 27 (1958-1961), the 27-1 (1961-1962) and the 27-2 (1962-1981) are generally considered "the good ones." Note that some 27-2s made 1979-1981 (particularly the 4" versions) lack the pinned barrel and/or the recessed chambers as S&W started running out of these parts and began using the -3 parts.

On guns made before 1982 (with the exceptions noted above) there is a small pin securing the barrel. See photo below.

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Also prior to 1982 the chambers on the Magnum calibers (357, 41 and 44) were counter-bored, or recessed. See below photo.

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If you want a top flight N frame 357 then a Model 27-2 with either a 3.5" barrel or a 5" barrel is considered a good choice.

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