how to tell if brass is used up
- Thread starter agd1953
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Ifishsum
Member
loose primer pockets, a shiny ring around the brass just above the case head, or necks starting to split are the classic signs. Once any of these start showing up, I'd retire the whole batch and start with new.
Ifishsum,
Rifle I reload until they split or the primer pocket is loose.
Pistol I reload as long as they fit into the gauge block after being resized. I have discovered that 9 mm and 40 will eventually belly below where the resizer die can reach and when that happens the web can blow out like this one:
Revolver I reload until they split.
Rifle I reload until they split or the primer pocket is loose.
Pistol I reload as long as they fit into the gauge block after being resized. I have discovered that 9 mm and 40 will eventually belly below where the resizer die can reach and when that happens the web can blow out like this one:
Revolver I reload until they split.
scrat
Member
primer pockets loose and when the bullet presses in too easy. then after crimping you can still push it in with your finger. So then you pull the bullet. dump the powder. neck size again. and you can still push the bullet in by hand. its toast.
that is after you inspect them and disgard all of the shells that are cracked or have webbed like cracks all over them.
that is after you inspect them and disgard all of the shells that are cracked or have webbed like cracks all over them.
RavenVT100
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ALL my new or once-fired brass has a ring above the case head: It's right at the end of where the full length, small base resizer die gets to it. How do I tell this apart from the "you're about to have a case head separation" ring?
The "ring" will be thin and bright. Also you can use a "feeler" to run inside the case. You can feel a low spot where the bright ring is. That is the brass is getting thin there. You can usually feel this before the ring shows up.
I have a thin probe with a short 90 degree end on it that I use. It may have come from a Dentist's office, but it may have been scrounged from here at the hospital.
I have a thin probe with a short 90 degree end on it that I use. It may have come from a Dentist's office, but it may have been scrounged from here at the hospital.
The Bushmaster
Member
A straightened paper clip with a small 90 degree bend in the very end and sharpened just a bit makes a good tool for this task...
RavenVT100,
Some guns have enlarged chamber entrances to ensure feeding such as Glocks that allow the base of the casing to expand more then other guns. Unfortunately, those rounds I do not know how to determine whether they are re-loadable . I shoot a HK USP with a polymer frames so I toss anything that does not fit into my L.E. Wilson gauge blocks, I don't need a blow back with that gun. The 9mm above was in a Beretta 92FS and I felt it when it went off; the round stove piped and trigger bar popped out of it's detentes. Fortunately ,there was no damage to the gun or myself. Since I have been checking every case against the L.E. Wilson gauge blocks after I resize I haven't had another issue, but I have tossed a lot of brass I would have reloaded in the past. It really all about building the most accurate, safe, and reliable rounds possible over saving a few pennies. Even with what I toss it is still cheaper then factory ammo and better IMO.
Some guns have enlarged chamber entrances to ensure feeding such as Glocks that allow the base of the casing to expand more then other guns. Unfortunately, those rounds I do not know how to determine whether they are re-loadable . I shoot a HK USP with a polymer frames so I toss anything that does not fit into my L.E. Wilson gauge blocks, I don't need a blow back with that gun. The 9mm above was in a Beretta 92FS and I felt it when it went off; the round stove piped and trigger bar popped out of it's detentes. Fortunately ,there was no damage to the gun or myself. Since I have been checking every case against the L.E. Wilson gauge blocks after I resize I haven't had another issue, but I have tossed a lot of brass I would have reloaded in the past. It really all about building the most accurate, safe, and reliable rounds possible over saving a few pennies. Even with what I toss it is still cheaper then factory ammo and better IMO.
scrat
Member
what happened to the other two
Robert Farrar
Member
agd1953,
I suggest a bit better housekeeping; segregate the various lots of brass and go from there. Overpressure is not friendly. Like Idano said, it is "pennies".
Also, keep detailed records of both loads & brass.
I use ziplock bags marked with a Sharpie marker for segregation.
Bob
I suggest a bit better housekeeping; segregate the various lots of brass and go from there. Overpressure is not friendly. Like Idano said, it is "pennies".
Also, keep detailed records of both loads & brass.
I use ziplock bags marked with a Sharpie marker for segregation.
Bob
Last edited:
Peter M. Eick
Member
When it splits like this you have a problem and it is pretty used up.
Remington replaced the lot for free by the way. Nice company to deal with!
cheygriz
member
A good rule of thumb for Glocks. (I have four of them
)9MM and .357 SIG have normal SAAMI spec chambers. Reload for them same as for any other gun. (Except don't use lead bullets)
.40,10 MM and .45 Glocks have overly large rear end in their chamber, allegedly to enhance feeding reliability. Get an aftermarket barrel for these from BarSto, Jarvis of KKM.
I have the factory barrel in my Glock 17, and aftermarket barrels in my 20,21, and 22.
BTW, KKM barrels are top quality, and about 3/4 of the price of a BarSto or Jarvis. If you do decide on the ultra precision match grade BarSto, send the gun to BarSto and have the barrel fitted at the factory. Believe me, it's worth the extra cost.
OTOH, the KKM barrel just "drops in" and is more accurate than the fasctory barrel. www.lonewolfdist.com/
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