How to zero the Tasco SS1042 ?

[Onslaught]

Or target turrets in general...

I just purchased a Tasco Super Sniper Mil-Dot scope in 10x42 to top off the as yet unpurchased Savage 10FLP in .308 (seems all the wholesalers in my area are out!)

I bought it used from a guy on AR15.com for $250. It has no marks whatsoever, looks brand spanking new, and included an additional 2.5" sunshade and Butler Creek flip-up covers.

What it doesn't have are INSTRUCTIONS! I know I have to learn how to use the mil-dots, which I plan to use more for quick "alternate POA" rather than range estimation and adjusting zero... But how do I get initial zero?

What I mean is... I assume that I zero the scope as with any other, but the turrets should still stay on Zero somehow. There are 3 allen screws in the top of each turret, and if I loosen them, the turrets don't "click"... Does that mean only the "numbers" are turning then, and not POA?

Thanks...

 

[4v50 Gary]

I have a Tasco manual around here somewhere. PM me your snail mail addy and I'll see if I can drop a xerox copy in the mailbox for you. One shooter to another in this wonderful fraternity of ours. All I ask in exchange is that you help another THR or stranger when it's your turn.

 

[AR-10]

After you have zeroed the scope at whatever range you pick, loosen the allen screws on the turrets a bit and reset the dials to zero. Tighten the allen screws.

Then if you move the turrets for one reason or another, you can set the reticle back to the zero you have established.

Don't feel bad about not having the instructions. They tell you next to nothing about using the scope.

 

[4v50 Gary]

From Maj. John Plaster's Ultimate Sniper

taken from page 94-95:

Recentering a Reticle
"Each time a scope is remounted on a rifle, then fine-adjusted for an exact zero, an inevitable by-product is that a few clicks of windage or elevation have been shifted from the scope's mechanical center.

After several remountings, a signifcant amount of internal adjustments - especially elevation - may have been consumed, reducing the potential outer adjustment limits and therefore the maximum distance at which you can click-in to engage a target dead-on.

Restore a reticle to its factory-set mechanical center is very simple if there are an equal number of Up/Down or Right/Left MOAs. All you need to do is turn the adjustment all the way to one end, then come back in the reverse direction and count the number of clicks. Now that you have the total clicks, divide by half and turn the knob back that far.

If you have an unequal number of MOAs - such as 45 Up and 15 Down elevation - it's a bit more complicated, but no problem using the following technique.

Cut two "V"s of similar height in a narrow carboard box so it can hold your scope, as shown in our illustration. After removing the elevation and windage turret covers, place the box and scope on a flat surface like a bench.

Now, aim the crosshairs at a precise spot 50 yards or farther away. Starting with the elevation turret up, and being very careful not to move the box, rotate the scope while watching the crosshairs.

You will see that the crosshairs will trace an elograted circle or elliptical path as you completely rotate your scope, as seen in the drawing below.

To restore a mechanical center, you must adjust the elevation or windage to reduce the wide elliptical shape into a very narrow circle. You may have to rotate/adjust/rotate several times to achieve this. Reducing the elliptical path to a few MOAs should be acceptable, a circular pattern of about one-fourth your Field of View, around the reticle center.

Regardless of the technique you use, recentering should be done before a scope is remounted and boresighted."

Sorry no pics. Plaster's book is very useful even if you're not interested in sniping. I recommend it highly.

Once you got the scope mechanically centered, bore sight it for 25 yards. Then shoot three rounds and adjust your knobs until it brings you close to the bullseye (or above it in a nice, tight pattern). After you produce a nice pattern at 25 yards, take it out to 100.

Now, where you set your sights depends on the type of shooting you want to do and the caliber of your rifle. I believe the USMC sights in for 600 yards (medium range) and adjust from there. If you're an ordinary guy like me, I like to sight in 2" high at 100. That is, my POA is at the "X" of the bullseye but I want my group (POI) to be 2" above the "X." This should be dead-on for 200 yard shooting. It makes it quick for targets anywhere from 100-300 yards.

BTW, regarding those "allen screws" on the turrets, leave them alone.

 

[Onslaught]

Thanks! As I'll be waiting on bases and rings (Midway is backordered) it'll give me something to toy around with.

 

[4v50 Gary]

You're welcome. Now, share the luv and help someone else. We strengthen the bonds of the shooting community and make this a better place for mankind. Enuff of soap box speach.

 

[AR-10]

That is an excellent method for checking mechanical zero. Wish I had known about that before mounting my scope.

The allen screws are there for a reason. One of the few things discussed in the instructions. Might as well use them. They are to set the turret caps back to zero after you have sighted in the scope. Not mechanical zero, but the zero you have established. That way if you adjust the reticle for windage or greater distance, you can dial it back quickly.

Two cautions. Don't torque them down real tight untill you have had the rifle to the range two or three times. Once you tighten them well, there are little divots made where they seat. Trying to move the caps one or two clicks and reset the caps is difficult. Make sure before you set the allen screws that you have the cap pushed fully down onto the spindle.

One other little tidbit for what it's worth. The o-ring under the turret cap may make the clicks feel mushy as you turn the knob. Mine does not really stop at each click. I can feel the clicks, but it is just as easy to go a click and a third or a half as it is to set it at a click. I have been told that you can buy o-rings just a smidge thinner that will eliminate this problem. I haven't done so, but it sounds like a good idea to me.

Here are a few links that might interest you while you wait for your mounting hardware.


http://www.aspiringtech.com/nobull/mildot reticle.html


http://www.shooterready.com/lrsdemo.html

 

[4v50 Gary]

Thanks AR-10. I got to reading the manual just before I went to bed and thought, opps. Gotta post but I'm glad someone beat me to it.

 

[4v50 Gary]

From the Tasco manual:

Windage/Elevation (Inches per movement per click)

When you have finalized zeroing, use the Allen wrench to loosen the 3 set screws. After completely loosened, rotate the windage and elevation knobs (without any click noise) until the zero ("0") lines up with the indicator line. Retighten the 3 screws. Make any further windage and elevation adjustments by seeing how many clicks from the zero point you have moved.

Note: Each 60 clicks move the windage or elevation knob to expose one horizontal index line. Each click of adjustment moves the bullet strike by the maount shown [on the chart] below:

25 yards 1/16"
50 yards 1/8"
100 yards 1/4"
200 yards 1/2"
300 yards 3/4"
400 yards 1"

 

[Onslaught]

Thanks for all the info guys... You've both been a great help.

AR10, the aspiringtech site definitely helped, and quickly! I've been to the shooterready site and played the demo, but never could get it right, even with all the info they provide. After reading "getting the most from your mildots" just once, I made a head shot on the 3rd stage, first shot! I'm gonna have to order the CD.

 

[feedthehogs]

http://www.swfa.com/mildot/index.html
Use the above link for info on the mil/dot system.