How would you remove this squib?

[Walkalong]

Oh...? Think about it.

We routinely put low charges of fast-burning powders like AA5744 and RedDot in Biiiiig
45-70 cases behind some really heavy bullets -- lot'sa empty volume. Where is the
dramatic difference here ? (especially with a cylinder gap/pressure relief mechanism)

Yep. When I was doing my how low can you go test with W231 and .45 ACP I used a charged case with no bullet and shot a stuck bullet out with one. Smoky and sooty with all the extra room, but worked.

 

[fguffey]

How would you remove this squib?

I would drill a hole through the bullet (carefully) then I would run a threaded rod through it with a nut on the back side, and then I would use a slide hammer and pull it out.

Or I would set-up a puller and pull it out.

F. Guffey

 

[Walkalong]

Unless it is super tight, it is easiest to just tap it out. Won't hurt a thing using a brass rod with care.

If you drill a hole through the bullet, which I have done with one that was super tight (Using a guide), then there is no need to tap and pull it, as it will now tap out very easily.

But that will certainly work.

 

[Hondo 60]

Yup rc was correct - as always

rcmodel said: Squirt some oil in the barrel behind it.

Then use a brass rod to drive it back out the same way in came in.

 

[Sport45]

Nobody suggested grabbing the blue wrench and melting it out? Or using a hacksaw behind the bullet to make a 2" GP100?

Smart crowd...

 

[Potatohead]

I thought wood was a no no, because of splintering etc?

Nobody has recommended chootin' one behind it yet?

(kidding, Dont do that)


****I see now RC has mentioned the wood splintering..shoulda known. Things havent changed much round here, and that's a good thing

 

[Potatohead]

If you drill a hole through the bullet, which I have done with one that was super tight (Using a guide), then there is no need to tap and pull it, as it will now tap out very easily.

Wow, that sounds intense..and like it would take some skills that I dont have. Or tools..that I dont have either.

 

[Walkalong]

I made a guide on the lather and used a hand drill. Easy Peasy. My elder son's FIL stuck a 158 Gr bullet in his snub nose. Man was that thing tight.

 

[RussellC]

You need a metal rod (brass, aluminum, or polished steel) near enough to be a slip fit in the bore.
(Think hardware store metal rack.)

But, if you have a .38 / .357 bore, and only can find 5/16" (.3125") rod?
Or a .45 and can only find 3/8" (.375")

Wrap tape strips around the rod until it is a slip fit and centered in the bore.

The problem with cleaning rods is they are always too small, and never center on a pointed bullet nose.

And the threaded joints expand and seize into the barrel when you apply a hammer too them!


The problem with wood dowels is they always have lengthwise grain pattern.
When they split, they become two wedges, driven side by side and wedged tighter then heck.
(Or, the end grain split wedged beside the stuck bullet.)

And there is no good way to get them out that won't ruin the barrel.



This is a 3/8" wood dowel rod pounded on a little, the hit once against a pointed bullet.

Get that wedged in a barrel beside a stuck bullet tip and you will have The Mother of All Bore Obstructions to try and get out!!

View attachment 216237

Of course, the ultimate Squib removal is, don't have one in the first place.
If you are shooting a centerfire caliber and want .22 RF recoil?

You should be shooting a .22 RF!!

rc

Tape suggestion is gold, thanks for that one!