I am very confused on reloading fire formed brass steps.

What a great idea ! I was wondering how to measure that setback, without buying more dies!
That doesn't measure anything but does take the slop out of the shell holder and push the shoulder even further back. Most 30-30 is waaaaay oversized. I don't come close to even touching the base of the die, let alone need to shim the shell holder.
 
That doesn't measure anything but does take the slop out of the shell holder and push the shoulder even further back. Most 30-30 is waaaaay oversized. I don't come close to even touching the base of the die, let alone need to shim the shell holder.

How does it take the slop out.....?
He said nothing about shimming the shell holder......Only how he sets the sizing die up.......

For 30-30 I run my rcbs FL sizer with a 15 thousands feeler gauge between the shell holder and die base.
 
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Thanks guys for all the info. I am

I am starting with 30.06 and 308 to begin with and hopefully eventually moving on to 303 Brit and 6.5 Jap.
Check that 303 and 6.5j. Maybe the 30-06 too. If you can put a freshly fired case next to a fired then sized case and see a difference in the shoulder you definitely should be gapping the die to the shell holder a bit. If you can see a difference it's probably around ten thousands.
 
How does it take the slop out.....?
He said nothing about shimming the shell holder......Only how he sets the sizing die up.......
Ok I misread it, so maybe you can explain how that measures setback.... I had a Guffey flashback... the feeler guage between the shellholder and case base.
 
Ok I misread it, so maybe you can explain how that measures setback.... I had a Guffey flashback... the feeler guage between the shellholder and case base.

I didn’t mention anything about setback, that’s a discussion between you and the OP…
 
After sizing, whether you neck size or full length size.

Also, for many years I determined the overall length of the cartridge to rifling, using a 1/4" oak dowel and a sharp pencil. The Nosler manuals have the process in them. Basically, close the bolt on an empty chamber, insert the dowel in the muzzle and bottom against the bolt face. Make a reference mark on the dowel at the muzzle end. Then, open the bolt, drop a bullet (not a loaded round - the bare bullet) in the chamber and hold against the throat, using a pencil or similar. Insert your dowel again and make a second reference mark at the muzzle. Measure between the marks for your overall cartridge "jam length". Back off your desired jump and go from there. I'd suggest 0.030" jump for hunting rifles with cup n core bullets, or 0.050" for mono bullets (all copper) as a starting point. As noted above, this may be too long for your magazine - you will have to check.
I will try this method also! Thanks.
 
Check that 303 and 6.5j. Maybe the 30-06 too. If you can put a freshly fired case next to a fired then sized case and see a difference in the shoulder you definitely should be gapping the die to the shell holder a bit. If you can see a difference it's probably around ten thousands.
Thank you, another great tip!
 
Is there such a thing as a body die, I know there is a neck die, but what about the rest of the case? After so many firings seems like the rest of the case would need to be resized also.
I have bushing dies for my bolt action rifles but after 3 or 4 firings, I run them through the F/L dies or else they are hard to close the bolt on.
 
The case should be resized after every firing unless you know your gun can go one or several firings with our sizing.
Even then I would recommend cycling every case you intend to neck size only through the action after you size it but before you prime/load it.
For me hard chambering rounds and hard to extract cases are unacceptable.
 
Good to hear you are starting with 30-06 and 308 before starting on the 6.5 jap. The jap chambers can be all over the map and it will be good to have a grasp on case chamber fitment before attempting that jap. My chamber is about .010-.020 oversized and most new 6.5 jap brass is undersized. I was working on reforming other cartridges to make something work before other projects took priority. Good luck.
 
Good to hear you are starting with 30-06 and 308 before starting on the 6.5 jap. The jap chambers can be all over the map and it will be good to have a grasp on case chamber fitment before attempting that jap. My chamber is about .010-.020 oversized and most new 6.5 jap brass is undersized. I was working on reforming other cartridges to make something work before other projects took priority. Good luck.
A custom die is probably a good idea if one intends to shoot a lot of a milsurp. There are exceptions, the 6.5x55 was very high quality and were known for good chambers. If your shooting Mosin in a military match it may give much better brass life.
 
Is there such a thing as a body die, I know there is a neck die, but what about the rest of the case? After so many firings seems like the rest of the case would need to be resized also.
I have bushing dies for my bolt action rifles but after 3 or 4 firings, I run them through the F/L dies or else they are hard to close the bolt on.
Yes there is. Redding (type S) makes them as well as others. It's a bushing die so you can control how much neck reduction you want, like a neck sizer. Just don't install the bushing and your only touching the body.

It's best to full length size every firing but in a controlled condition. Only pushing the shoulder back 0.001"-0.002" so you don't over work the necks.
 
Is there such a thing as a body die, I know there is a neck die, but what about the rest of the case? After so many firings seems like the rest of the case would need to be resized also.
Yes there is, and exactly right, which is why most people got away from neck sizing and the occasional body sizing as needed, it's not as consistent, and if it bites you in a match because a round doesn't chamber......no bueno.
 
Yes there is. Redding (type S) makes them as well as others. It's a bushing die so you can control how much neck reduction you want, like a neck sizer. Just don't install the bushing and your only touching the body.

It's best to full length size every firing but in a controlled condition. Only pushing the shoulder back 0.001"-0.002" so you don't over work the necks.
I see @Blue68f100 beat me to it, and I agree 100%
 
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