I don't crimp .45ACP

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nosliw

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Let me know if what I'm doing is okay :D Please.

First picture, a once-fired brass that has been cleaned and resized.

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Second picture, an expanded case with 8.8-9.0gr AA#5 and a 185gr projectile that I pushed on by hand. This is how far down it goes with the amount I've expanded the mouth.

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Third picture, the cartridge once the bullet has been seated (no crimp, as I backed out the die one full turn past when the shellholder kissed the die).

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Fourth picture, from left to right: 'good' round, 'bad' round, cleaned once-fired, case after shooting my reload through it.

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The 'good' round that I made in the pictures is 1.230" in overall length. The case is nice and straight with no noticeable buldges or deformations. The bullet is in there firmly, and I can whack the nose of the cartridge into my table with no change in COAL.

The 'bad' round is just that. BAD. It has an overall length of 1.235", and has a noticeable buckle halfway down the case. I started getting these when I first adjusted my expanding die so that the bullet would barely start in the case. This created a lot of shaving and on most cases, buckled the sides. Some worked out okay, though.

I slowly worked the expanding die until the bullet seated firmly and didn't scrap the bullet or case. You can see in the second picture how far the bullet will press down into the case by just pinching the round between my fingers. You can also see that the 'flare' created by the expanding die is virtually gone.

I shot 20-30 rounds of this stuff through my Sprindfield XD45 the other day and it performed flawlessly.

I should also add that after I fired this factory ammunition, I didn't trim it. They were all in the acceptable limits of case length, but varied slightly from eachother.

Sometimes I will still get a case buckle. It's not often, but when I do I adjust the expanding 'rod' in ever so slightly. I think it's doing the buckling because it's not expanded enough. I believe it is happening on the slightly longer cases. The bullet is being pressed down too far past the expansion?

What do you guys think? Should I attempt to set it up so I taper-crimp it slightly? Is it worth the hassle? Am I doing the right thing?

I've read a few reloading manuals, but I'm basically teaching myself the things the book doesn't cover. It makes sense that these rounds are adequate, but I'd like some opinions.
 
You most likely already are taper-crimping slightly.

All the taper crimp should do is remove the bell the expander put in the case to get the bullet started.

Measure a loaded round with calipers.
The mouth of a completed round should measure around .473" depending on brass thickness.

Or lay a steel straight-edge rule on the case. It should be straight.

The further in you turn the seating die, the more taper crimp it applies.
Looks like you got yours just about right by accident as near as I can tell from the pictures.

rcmodel
 
Maybe I should have titled the thread "I don't crimp .45ACP on purpose"!

The papers that came with the Redding dies said to back it off 1 turn to avoid crimping, oh well. If I'm crimping a little bit that's good I guess...
 
The papers that came with the Redding dies said to back it off 1 turn to avoid crimping, oh well. If I'm crimping a little bit that's good I guess...

Is the die made for loading 45 Auto rim where you would want a roll crimp or a profile die? Just a tidbit, but it is very hard to say turn 1 turn, half turn, etc in an instruction sheet... Way too many variables for that. A lot of die adjustment is making small adjustments and trial and error. Your real sweet spot might be 25/64 th's of a turn:), and until you do that you won't know.

Also, seating and crimping in the same step is not the best way IMO and experience. I always do these steps separately and think it's worth the extra step, especially when heavy roll crimps need applied.
 
It is a common mistake when seating/crimping with the same die. The die is screwed down a tad too far and buckles cases. Back the die off a 1/4 turn and try that. Of course, you will have to readjust the seater stem down a tad to maintain your desired O.A.L.

Most folks end up getting a separate crimp die just because setting things up is easier.
 
I agree with walkalong. I got a separate crimp die for the extremely heavy crimp I must use on my 500 rounds.

I seat all the bullets, then I crimp all the cartridges as the last stage, not with the seating stage but SEPARATELY.
 
I like to crimp and seat in the same step.
I do not bell the case mouth when loading jacketed bullets for the .45 Automatic so I do not crimp.
I do crimp lead though about .001" to .002".
 
I'm with Inspector on this. I used to seat and crimp in one step with an RCBS die a friend gave me, but I soon stopped and now take the time for that extra, separate step. Just a matter of preference.
 
The mouth of a completed round should measure around .473" depending on brass thickness.
Measured factory ammo and they're about .469
Taper crimps remove the bell caused by the expander die. However I found that anything over .471 will not feed reliably in my Gold Cup National Match .45 acp.

Measure as close to the case mouth as you possibly can using the knife blade of the caliper. My gauge is digital and checked against a calibrated precision micrometer accurate to .0001. You don't need to go crazy like I do.

Do not use the flat portion of the caliper blade because it's wide and will touch the side of the cae where it's wider. Don't taper crimp too tight because a too tight taper will strip the bullet more so if itls plated. Been there did that.
 
I used to seat and crimp in one step with an RCBS die a friend gave me, but I soon stopped and now take the time for that extra, separate step.

With the light crimp needed on .45 ACP it works just as well either way.

For jacketed bullets with a cannelure that need a medium to heavy crimp it is much better to do it in two steps, especially with very shallow cannelures and/or heavy crimps.

For lead bullets with a nice curved crimp groove properly cast into them it works well either way.

It is, of course, a little easier to set up using two separate dies. I crimp in a separate step for most applications.
 
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