I dont understand? What am I doing wrong?

[Leafy Cronmer]

I am new to the reloading scene and have yet to reload my first round. Lately I have been shooting a lot more and to cut down on cost of ammunition I decided to reload. The problem I am running into is that I don't see a huge difference in price.

The cost of components is almost as much as what I pay for my ammunition already. My calculations include primers, bullets, and powder. Assuming I can retain all spent brass from the ammo I have now. I only see a 30 to 40 dollar saving per 1000 rounds reloaded. Now that is a good savings but my set up is very simple and time consuming so at some point I might just pay the extra 40 and not waist the time.

Am I doing something wrong, other people I talk to say they save much more?

EDIT I load/will be loading almost exclusively 9mm, for practice ammunition. I buy my self defense ammo, factory at the moment.

 

[Leafy Cronmer]

Also If anyone has any suggestions on places to pick up components for cheap it would be greatly appreciated. The price of bullets is really the only thing that I cant find for a good deal.

PS if this is covered already I apologize.

 

[army_husbandky]

Leafy Cronmer

When it comes to reloading, you aren’t going to see a huge difference in the price when you first get started into reloading. It the long run is when reloading pays off.

Also, with reloading (and this is something that a lot of people like to reload for) is that you can “tune” the ammunition to match your weapon. When a round is made at the factory everything is put together on an assembly line. Some of the bullets might not weigh exactly the same, some of the powder charges may not even be the same. That and when a round is made at the factory, they have to setup the round so that it can be fired in a multitude of firearms, not just a specific firearm. Also when a firearm is at the manufacturer being assembled, there are going to be slight variations in the weapon that will differ from another weapon of the same exact model. So this is why I am saying that you are not just reloading to save money, but you are also reloading to that you can create ammunition that is specific to your.

Also, I am noticing this is a trend in GA, don’t know if this is the same thing in your area, but ammunition is getting hard to find. This is another reason why I reload my own ammunition. In GA, 45 ACP is very hard to find, well, any in my area that is any good. I shoot 45 ACP a lot, mainly because it is my preference as a CCW. I like to get as much practice in that I can, so I reload so that I can make sure that I have the ammo the day that I go to the range. And because at the beginning of my reloading period, I bought 1000 bullets to start off with. This was about two years ago, and I haven’t had to buy 45 ACP ammo for two years. So this is also why I say that you will not see a big difference in price just starting off, but you will see it in the long run.

As to your second question about a good place to find components for reloading, the only thing that I have found is lead. I don’t like shooting lead, I have had problems in the past with reloading lead bullets, so I try to stick with FMJ or JHP. For jacketed rounds, you are going to have to pay more, but if you can get good at reloading lead bullets, that would be one way to go.

 

[Steve Marshall]

It depends on caliber and what kind of bullet. If you are planning to reload 9MM fmj's e.g.
no, you won't save much. It might help you get responses were you to say what cartridge and for what purpose you plan to reload for.

 

[Randy1911]

I save quite a lot on reloading. Here is an example.

45 ACP

Bullet; $75/1000
Powder $23 lb./1320 rounds per 1 lb.
Primers $30/1000
brass reuse- free

$123 per 1000 rounds

Factory Ammo at Walmart

$38/100 so $380/1000

I save $257 per 1000 rounds. That is about 1/3 the cost of factory ammo.

Where are you getting your componets? Either you are getting a big bargin on factory ammo or paying way too much for componets.

 

[GMFWoodchuck]

It really depends on what you're reloading too. You could save a bundle on some type, but not others. Typical FMJ (handgun and rifle) you probably wouldn't save a ton. But if you're looking to try out lead bullets and/or "better" bullets the savings could be quite significant.

Plus many of us start out with that idea and rapidly forget about it as we realize that enjoy reloading and eventually becomes a hobby within itself. And when that happens...Well..It can get as expensive as we want can let it to be. A Lee press works, but the Dillions sure are nice.....

 

[~z]

As stated savings will depend largly on the caliber you shoot. If you shoot a 9mm you would likely see minimal savings in reloading, however if you shoot a .41 mag you will likely be faced with the decision of 2nd morgage or reload.

You will likely find that you do not 'save' money by reloading, you just shoot more for the same amount of money.
~z

 

[JimKirk]

I did a cost of several Cartridges at Cabela's.
308 Win @ $39/20
30/06 @ $39/20
300 Win @ $49/20
300 WB @ $50/20
300 RUm @ $59/20
All 150 grain Hunting loads.

I calculated reloading cost using primers @$30/100, IMR Powder @ $30/lbs and Bullets @ $25/100.

308 Win @ $9.80/20 or $.49 each
30/06 @ $10/20 Or $.50 each
300 Win @ $11.80/20 or $.59 each
300 WB @ $12/20 or $.60 each
300 RUM @ $12.98/20 or $.65 each

I let you do the rest of the math to see if you can save by reloading.

Jimmy K

 

[RVenick]

Use this:

http://10xshooters.com/calculators/index.htm

 

[918v]

I am new to the reloading scene and have yet to reload my first round. Lately I have been shooting a lot more and to cut down on cost of ammunition I decided to reload. The problem I am running into is that I don't see a huge difference in price.

The cost of components is almost as much as what I pay for my ammunition already. My calculations include primers, bullets, and powder. Assuming I can retain all spent brass from the ammo I have now. I only see a 30 to 40 dollar saving per 1000 rounds reloaded. Now that is a good savings but my set up is very simple and time consuming so at some point I might just pay the extra 40 and not waist the time.

Am I doing something wrong, other people I talk to say they save much more?

You are sourcing your components at retail. You should hunt them down at wholesale. Bullets are the most expensive component. There is a bullet manufacturer in my area that sells 9mm FMJ for $10 per 100. A similar bullet retails for $20 per hundred. Basically, jacketed handloads should cost no more than 50% of retail factory ammo and lead handloads no more than 30%.

 

[ambidextrous1]

Thanks for the link, RVenick!

 

[ny32182]

However you are buying components, it is probably not the most efficient method. Get online and buy in bulk; the more the better... that is how you save money.

For example, in terms of absolute dollars, you will probably save the least on 9mm FMJ. WWB at Walmart cost $22 per 100 last I checked. My load which is worked to mimic WWB as closely as possible costs me $11-12 per 100, a savings of nearly 50%, or about $100 per 1000.

Even saving 100 bucks a case, if you have a slow reloading setup like I do and are calculating a "paid by the hour" time into it, it will not look like it is "worth it". Preferably you should learn to enjoy it, but if you don't, at the very least you have to be using free time rather than vacation hours to make it worth it.

 

[Lonely Raven]

That's a great calculator. Thanks for sharing!

 

[mongoose33]

You have to buy your components in bulk to realize the savings.

I can buy 3000 Missouri Bullet 125gr Smallball 9mm for 5.633 cents apiece.

Primers cost me less than 3 cents each (I buy them 5k at a time).

Powder is 2 cents or less per load.

The end result is I can reload 9mm for under 10.7 cents each. WWB in Walmart is about 24 cents each.

The savings is even greater for .45 ACP.

But you have to buy in bulk. That's why it's hard for someone on a limited budget to realize these savings right off the bat. You need nearly $500 to buy enough bullets, primers, and powder (in 8# jugs) to get those reloading costs down.

You can do the least harm to your per-round reloading costs with powder; even if you pay $25/pound, a 5-grain load will cost you less than 2 cents per round, so you could get away w/ less powder to start, and just buy primers and bullets in bulk.

 

[RVenick]

I buy Zero brand bullets from Roze Distribution. I get 124g FMJ for $78/1000 same price on .357 125g JHP and 117/1000 for 45acp 230g FMJ. My cost per round is around a 1/3 that of buying from Wally World. But the biggest advantage is not the savings (because you will just shoot more) is you can tune your ammo to your gun. Handgun rounds more so then rifle when bought from the store have to work in CC guns thru fullsize guns so you end up either with real snappy rounds in mouse type guns and wimpy loads in fullsize guns that sometimes won't even cycle properly.

 

[Leafy Cronmer]

Thanks everyone for the info. This has really helped me out a lot. And FYI at the moment I normally shoot 9mm, so like you all have mentioned I stand to save the least with 9mm but a saving none the less. And when I move on to reloading large calibers the savings will be more prominent. Really thanks for the info.

 

[Arkansas Paul]

Reload some for .45 Colt and you'll see the savings rack up in a hurry. Man that factory stuff is expensive. And watered down too, so it really sucks.
I also save tons on .30-06 stuff. I like Nosler Ballistic tips and a box of Federal Premium 150 gr BTs are $38 a box here. I can load them for about $12, assuming I already have the brass. That's pretty good savings.
Buy bullets and brass if you need it online. Unless you buy large amounts of powder and primers, it's not worth the haz mat fees to buy online.

 

[bfoosh006]

Leafy,
Give us the reload "recipe" and maybe we could offer some "cheaper" substitutes. And as for bullets... I use these for my practice...http://www.precisionbullets.com/....look at the index page....or ....https://blackbulletsinternational.com/About_Us.html

 

[medalguy]

I load quite a few calibers, and I have to say 9mm is probably the one where you will realize the least savings. Having said that, you can buy in bulk and save quite a bit. Example: I saw an ad on another forum the other day for 9mm brass for 2 cents per round by 1000's. Pretty good price. Other things are available at comparable savings but you have to scour the forums and read a lot in order to find the best deals. Stay away from Gunbroker and the like, no deals there.

Now for rifle there are huge savings. I load 223 as follows:
GI brass .045 each
primers .035 each from Powder Valley
powder .04 each using milsurp powder from Pat's Reloading
bullet .065 each from surplusammo.com
Total to reload a round using new brass 18.5 cents
Total to reload a round using my fired brass .14 cents per round

Compare that to the best deal you can find for XM193 loaded ammo. What-40 cents or more per round at the very best. Gunshow prices are somewhere around 60 - 75 cents per round.

 

[rondog]

Pulled milsurp 9mm FMJ's at the bottom of the page, $90 per 1000. http://www.polygunbag.com/bullets.html

I bought some, dang nice looking bullets! I'd buy more, but also have thousands of lead 9mm bullets, and only the grandkids' High Point carbine that shoots 9mm, so I have enough for now.

 

[TheRodDoc]

I see everyone listing what they say is lower cost supplys but no one has listed the shipping cost of each component or the hasmat fees for powder and primers which is usally $25.00 for each.
Case of 1000 bullets probably around $30.00 to $40.00 shipping handling.

 

[evan price]

OK, I'll play.

9mm is the least cost effective to reload because factory ammo is the cheapest.

However:

9mm cases- FREE at nearly any shooting range, they hardly ever wear out.
Primers- 3.5 cents each
Powder- 1.0 cent each (and that's generous)
Bullet- 5 cents each (for store bought cast lead)

That means you can load up your target 9mm ammo for about 9.5 cents each, which is $4.75 a box.

That is based on you getting 9mm cases where you shoot- they should be easy to find.

You can find cast 9mm bullets for 5 cents each delivered by searching the net- in bulk quantity of 3000 pcs per order...they don't go bad, might as well max out a USPS Flat Rate Medium box with as close to 70 pounds of lead as you can to get the best bang for your shipping buck! (3000) 125-grain 9mm bullets, with packing materials, is about 60# which is about the best you can do and still have them arrive intact.

You can get primers for $35/thousand fairly easily. I can get them for $30 if I look- and that's locally.

I can buy powder in stock on the shelf as long as I use one of the cheaper shotgun powders like Clays, Red Dot/Promo, Titegroup, etc for about $100 an 8# keg or less. With average 9mm needing about 4-5 grains per load, thats about a cent per shot.


Now, I'll just depress you here, I buy primers in bulk (50,000 primers is a case!) from the distributors like Powder Valley to max out my Haz-Mat charges. That makes $26/thousand for primers.
I use free range pickup brass and boxes.
I also cast my own bullets from free backstop lead from the range- my only expense is propane to melt the lead down and a bit of Alox lube... but I sell the scrap copper from the bullet jackets and that pays for the propane.
My local gunshop sells Promo powder for $90/8# keg.

My personal actual cost to load a round of 9mm is:

Case- FREE
Lead bullet-FREE
Powder- 0.8 Cents
Primer- 2.6 Cents

Total cost 3.4 cents per shot, or $1.70 per box.