I know it's been asked a billion times, but what do I need?

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Quintin Likely

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Gotta feed my highpower addicti..hobby, and buying factory loaded ammo ain't gonna do it. I shot up the last my of Black Hills reman, so I hit my local dealer and paid about $75 for three boxes of Federal Match, and that's not good. Living 10 minutes away from the range has inspired me to shoot more and more.

So, bottom line, what all do I need to start loading .223? I bought a used 550 off EBay a while ago that's still sitting in the box. I bought a set of standard Dillion .223 dies, the three piece set that comes with a full length sizer, a decapper, and a seating die (I think? Don't have it in front of me right now). I know I need a scale, and some calipers. Eye and ear protection goes without saying. I've got Sierra's, Hornady's and Nosler's reloading manuals. I can get powder and primers in town, and bullets from OK Weber or someone (heaviest .224 bullet my dealer has are only 69 SMKs or something, I'm shooting reduced course right now and I'd like to stick with the 77s and go to 80s when I go XC). I'm sitting on a good bit of LC, Winchester, and Federal brass from my pre highpower lead hose days. I think I'm gonna need a headspace gauge or something like that, for measuring OAL compared to the chamber in my rifle, right? Anything else I'm missing? Pointing me in the direction of getting some of this stuff would be awesome too.

Thanks y'all.
 
I'm surprised no one replied to this.. It's not difficult to start reloading. You have the Dillon 550. Become familiar with it. Intimately! Know how it all works. If you don't understand something about the press, call Dillon. Their customer service is great. I visited the facility in AZ last year. Impressive! I don't use the primer seat system on the Dillons, but many people do. I prefer a Lee Auto prime for hand priming. (I do this will sitting relaxed in the EZ chair watching TV.) Since you have the Dillon, you'll want the .223 conversion kit for the turret. You should get the Dillon powder measure. It is one of the most accurate non electronic units there is. I think Dillon also has an electronic scale/powder measure too. Else, get an RCBS or Dillon scale, Larger is better! You'll need the powder funnel for 223 dies also. You need a dial caliper. Get a good stainless one (Starett) from Ebay. It will last forever. An OAC length gauge is also nice. You might want a case length trimmer if you're gonna shoot your brass more than a couple times. The electric ones are nice, but the Lyman hand turner is good. You might want a case neck turner too. And a de-bur'r. You may want a loading tray. If those are carbide dies, then I doubt you'll need a lube tray and lube, ... But honestly, I've never reloaded .223. I've reloaded many other's -Hand gun calibers to belted magnums for rifles... But never a .223. Maybe someone else will chime in and give some pointers just for that caliber. Since you shoot so much, You'll eventually want a Dillon FM2000 case tumbler with the case separator tub and rotisery thingy. I love mine.

You've got the basics of components listed. These are just the things I have come to rely upon in my gun room.

Since you have the reloading manuals, READ THEM! And when you start reloading, Be exceptionally picky about every little step. Eventually, the Dillon 550 combined with experience will provide you with years of enjoyment and after the sticker shock of all the equipment it takes to get it done safely, you'll be pleased with the virsatility and speed of home reloading, -and the cost savings in the long run.

-Steve
 
Quintin, I thought we'd been over this, have we not?

Firstly, what rate of twist is your rifle? If it is 1:8 or faster you can use up to 80's, but you will not need heavier than 77's at up to 300 yards. 69's or 75's will be fine too. Did you Dillon come with the powder measure? You will have to ream the funnel to prevent bridging (search for this) and you'll be set on that. I would suggest a Redding S Type sizing die (rougly a .246" bushing for LC cases) and a Forster Ultra seating die. I would be somewhat concerned that the Dillon seater pressed the tip of the bullet rather than the ogive. A little sharpie use could answer this quickly. You need a scale, and for that I recommend the Ohaus M5 which is the same as an RCBS 1010 but older and about 1/2 the cost. See Ebay. You'll need a bullet puller too. I would suggest Hornady One Shot for lube. Prime on the Dillon, don't waste half the advantage of the Dillon by priming somewhere else. Yes, that means you load the round completely with lube on it...heresy to some but I say it works and it is just fine. Wipe them off on the outside if you feel compelled. Too much lube will bgive dents in cases either when sizing or being fired, but if you are judicious with the lube you will have neither problem ever. The lube comes off just fine when you tumble after firing them, lol. Once you start shooting from 600 you will need a Stoney Point OAL gauge and a comparator, but for now you won't. Load them puppies to 2.250" MAX (look for the longest bullet in the box, lol) and you'll be fine as frog hair. No crimp. Rem 7 1/2 primers, 24 grains (24.3 MAX) Reloader 15 and the 77 oughtta shoot knots without fussing about anything. Pump em out by the 500 and shoot em up, no worries. Test in your gun for pressure signs and accuracy, but chances are you'll be just golden.

If you are going to shoot a LOT of HP and you value your time, just get a Giraud trimmer and be done with it. Short of that you'll be spending a long time with brass Or you could get that snazzy sizer/trimmer die from Dillon. I have heard it does a better job than you would think, even for us comp types. No need for neck turning and all that jazz.
 
Excellent, now time to use what's left of Uncle Sam's refund to get going!

Steve, I'm shooting a box stock 1:8 RRA NM A2. I've got issues (you've read already) that I want to work out on the reduced course before shooting full course, and ain't no better way for that to happen than to turn powder, brass and bullets into smoke and noise.
 
Ok then, the load I gave you should work perfectly, but of course every rifle is a rule unto its own. If Varget is easier to come by, consider using it. It has been said that you can't put enough Varget in the case to have high pressure, but I didn't say that.

Don't forget to ream that powder funnel!!!!!!
 
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