Installed New Hammer--Now Thumb Safety Gets Stuck...

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brockgl

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I installed some new parts on my stainless Springfield Mil-Spec 1911 last night, and I am having a problem with my thumb safety.

A beavertail(http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=12750&title=1911 AUTO HIGH GRIP SAFETY)

A new hammer (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=496392)

And a new trigger (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=777797)

I have on order a new sear, but have not yet installed it, so it isn't causing the problem (though it may be the solution?... http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=528378)

I modified the frame on my Springer Mil-Spec, which was a lot easier than I thought. I debated whether or not to do it, since I only had a dremel, but I went ahead and went for it since the metal I was going to remove was superficial to the function of the gun. The beavertail is now installed, and the frame looks great! I am totally satisfied with my dremel job, and I really lucked out and don't seem to have made any stupid mistakes there.

The hammer practically dropped in, it was rubbing against the sides of the frame some, so I polished the sides of it a bit, and it now moves freely.

The trigger also required a little bit of metal to be sanded off to be able to fit into the gun, but it also is now installed and moving freely.

The sear I am currently using is my stock sear, though the one that Wilson makes to mate with this hammer and trigger is ordered and on the way.

Here is the problem.

The sear and disconnect install fine, as does the hammer (it seems), the beavertail slides into place and allows me to insert the thumb safety all the way until I try to put the safety's lug into the gun. I got it to go all the way in once, but the whole trigger group locked up, and I really had to work everything hard to break it loose and remove it. Now I can't even get it back in.

I am assuming that the thumb safety needs to have a bit of metal grinded off, but I am not sure what part to make smaller.

I am also having another problem:

When the sear/disconnect, hammer, and beavertail are installed, the hammer will not 'cock' all the way to the rear. It looks like it goes back far enough, but it doesn't go back far enough to allow the slide to clear it, and the slide won't go back. It doesn't look like the beavertail is catching it, I would be more inclined to think it is the sear, but any suggestions would be great!!

I am getting my new sear tomorrow, so I am not going to grind on stuff until I get the sear and give it a go. But any suggestions would be awesome!

Thanks!
 
First, put the new hammer & sear in, and see if the slide will work.

Then try to install the thumb safety, without the grip safety in place.

You will be able to look in the back and see a little of whats going on in there.

Color the thumb safety lock stud with black magic-marker and see what is too tight where by the rub-off.

Study this sticky and get an idea of what the contact spots are.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=231096

Once you get a working hammer, sear, & thumb safety, then worry about the grip safety.

rcmodel
 
rcmodel,

I took your advice and tested each part in succession, and the hammer moved freely all the way back when just the sear/disconnect was installed. But I could not fully install the thumb-safety, and since I had not put the grip-safety on yet I was able to see inside the frame revealing what was causing the thumb safety to get stuck. There was a hefty amount of material on the thumb-safety notch that wouldn't let it clear the sear. I filed it down a little at a time, and it finally cleared. It's still a bit tight, but I'm going to mess with it some more tomorrow.

With the thumb-safety installed, the hammer WOULD travel far enough backwards to allow the slide to clear. So, I knew the problem with the hammer not traveling back far enough had to be with the grip-safety. This turned out to be true. On an upper part of the grip-safety there was a part (the corner where the grip-safety makes a 90 degree angle) that the hammer was pressing against. Filing off about a millimeter of this allowed the hammer to move backward far enough for the slide to clear.

This new hammer, for some reason, seems to be tighter to the slide than my original. It's almost like I've installed a stronger spring, because it's forward pressure feels stronger (though I haven't changed any springs).

For example, when I pull back the slide (when the hammer is fully cocked) the hammer isn't low enough to clear the slide until the slide hits the hammer and pushes it down and out of the way. The spring tension the hammer has against the bottom of the slide seems stronger than the factory hammer did (though it still has more available downward movement, so it isn't metal blocking it, but it feels like spring tension).

Another example of this strong hammer tension is when the hammer is dropped and fully resting against the slide. It puts more forward pressure against the slide than I remembered. I noticed this when I tried to take the barrel bushing off of the front of the slide. The bushing is noticeably tighter due to the hammer pushing the slide forward. Also, once the bushing is off the barrel is somewhat tight and resting in a downward position against the bottom of the slide. When I pull back the hammer, this tightness is completely released.

Is this normal? Is it possible I just never noticed it before? Or is it something I should try to remedy?
 
It is possible the Wilson hammer has slightly different surface geometry, and/or the hammer strut pin hole is drilled slightly further away from the hammer pin hole a few thousandths.
That would make the mainspring feel heavier, increase lock-up dwell time, and give faster hammer fall, or lock time.
All good things probably.

You might put the old & new hammers together on the pin and compare them side by side and see if there are any visible tiny differences.

rcmodel
 
For example, when I pull back the slide (when the hammer is fully cocked) the hammer isn't low enough to clear the slide until the slide hits the hammer and pushes it down and out of the way.

This is exactly how it is supposed to be. It's called hammer overhaul.
 
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