i'm an engineer at heart and mechanical things intrigue me. The 1911 is something sentimental so I do this with great joy. Before tonight, my spring 1911 would hold very loose groups. On a real 1911 this can be cause by a loose bushing, poor frame to slide fit and a barrel hood that isn't fit to the slide. The trigger was a very smooth trigger, not crisp, just smooth all the way. I field stripped it (warning 17 pictures)
I put a cloth between the frame and the bench vice, I then removed the two screws above the grip saftey. This holds the slide in place. I feel it's a poor design that gives the pistol too loose of a tolerence between the frame and slide.
After those were removed, I removed the slide
I removed the slide stop which holds the barrel assembly in place.
I then removed the barrel (outer and inner)
Then ther is a pin on the piston assembly, remove that and put it in your small ???? tray (I use a plastic drawer)
Just push it forward and it comes off
Yup it's stripped
I am not going to disasemble the trigger and sear internals because the trigger pull is easy to adjust.
this is the piston assembly
This is the sear and the latch on the piston. I am going to use a fine india stone to get a crisper pull.
Another shot of the sear
The sear moves down and releases the piston.
There wasn't anything I could do to remedy the bushing fit since it doesn't exist. I put the plastic slide in the vice (with a towel as a barrier) and tightened it for about 10 seconds at a time. After a few minutes of doing this, I would say that the clearence was .010 instead of .020. In competition (real steel 1911s) I prefer a .006 because any tighter and it will foul up faster than germany took poland. (sorry guys). I need a gas 1911.
-Ken
Any questions and you can contact me at mr smooches 824 over aim.
I put a cloth between the frame and the bench vice, I then removed the two screws above the grip saftey. This holds the slide in place. I feel it's a poor design that gives the pistol too loose of a tolerence between the frame and slide.
After those were removed, I removed the slide
I removed the slide stop which holds the barrel assembly in place.
I then removed the barrel (outer and inner)
Then ther is a pin on the piston assembly, remove that and put it in your small ???? tray (I use a plastic drawer)
Just push it forward and it comes off
Yup it's stripped
I am not going to disasemble the trigger and sear internals because the trigger pull is easy to adjust.
this is the piston assembly
This is the sear and the latch on the piston. I am going to use a fine india stone to get a crisper pull.
Another shot of the sear
The sear moves down and releases the piston.
There wasn't anything I could do to remedy the bushing fit since it doesn't exist. I put the plastic slide in the vice (with a towel as a barrier) and tightened it for about 10 seconds at a time. After a few minutes of doing this, I would say that the clearence was .010 instead of .020. In competition (real steel 1911s) I prefer a .006 because any tighter and it will foul up faster than germany took poland. (sorry guys). I need a gas 1911.
-Ken
Any questions and you can contact me at mr smooches 824 over aim.