knight wolverine lk-93

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scottie4442

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I just bought three knight muzzleloaders, one stainless and two blued, I am not sure of the model numbers on the blued ones, but the SS one has lk-93 on it. I will have to clean up one of the blued guns, the barrel looks terrible, but someone told me that I can just run it on my bench grinder with a brush and then either reblue it, or god forbid, paint it with Krylon mat black. Ok, my question is are these good rifles, I have heard good things about the new knight rifles, but I think these are a few years old. They all look in good shape, well except for the outside of the one barrel the inside is ok though. Also what would one of these be worth, approximately, my friend wants to buy the good blued one from me and I have no idea what to charge him, I do not want to rip him off but I do want to get a good deal for it. Also I want to rebuild the other one correctly, so suggestion about how to redo the barrel. Another question how can I find out the model number of the two blued ones.

Thanks for the help
Scott Adams
 
I have a Knight USAK American Knight, which is their basic model and a notch under the Wolverine and I have to say, with the right load it is an absolute tack driver out to 100yds or so. The key is not to use too much powder or too light of a bullet in these rifles. I've found that 300 to 400gr sabots are best with powder loads that push them around 1500fps at the muzzle - with Triple Se7en powder that equates to 80gr for 300gr bullets, 90 for 350gr bullets and 100 for 400gr bullets. Also, as a warning, these are NOT designed for 150gr powder loads - stick to 120gr or less.
I bought this rifle brand new in 2000 and with the starter kit it ran $169 at Bass Pro. I'd say $75 to $100 is a fair price if they haven't been used much.

As far as the model name/# goes, you SHOULD find it ingraved on the barrel - mine is on the right side of the rifle, right below the rear sights.

I've never totally blued a firearm either, but I have touched just about all of mine up with Oxpho Blue (sold by Cabelas, Brownells and others) and it does a good job - at least for cold bluing. There is a product out called Blue Wonder that might be worth a try too. I've tried their bore cleaner and it is HEAVY on the ammonia and from what I've read, it or their specific bluing remover will clean the old right off - and they have a blue solution as well I believe.
Personally, if I had to take it somewhere to have it done by another - I would try to find someone who could parkerize it. I think that finish just looks sharp, plus it creates no glare and tends to resist abuse better.....that's why the military uses it.
 
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