Lapping 1917 Enfield Barrel

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JDinFbg

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In a previous post (https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/bedding-my-1917-enfield.853101/) I reported on the process I used to bed my 1917 Enfield, officially named the "United States Rifle, cal .30, Model of 1917". Although the bedding process vastly improved the performance of the rifle, allowing me to achieve groups in the 1" range, I still had concerns about the overall condition of the original barrel. I could see from observation of the rifling at the muzzle that there was some pitting in the grooves, but I also wondered whether the barrel had a consistent bore diameter.

I had discovered that the shank end of a new, unused N drill bit would fit into the muzzle end of the barrel and could be slid in about an inch. An N drill bit supposedly measures 0.3020" in diameter, but mine mic'd at 0.3022" using my Brown & Sharpe micrometer capable of measuring to 1/10,000ths of an inch. Thus I wondered about the bore diameter of the rest of the barrel. To assess this, I machined a brass plug to mount on the end of a cleaning rod. I started with a plug measuring 0.3015", with the plan to make it progressively smaller if it wouldn't slide all the way down the barrel. My initial plug would slide all the way down the barrel, but I observed that there were two tight spots in the barrel, one about a third of the barrel length from the muzzle, and the other about a third of the barrel length from the chamber. This confirmed that the bore diameter was not consistent, and that it was definitely larger than the 0.300" bore diameter specified for the 1917 Enfield. Whether this was due to wear over the years or due to manufacturing tolerances not being held to tight standards I'll never know. In some posts I've read, several have suggested that in the rush to produce service rifles for WW-I, manufacturing quality may have been allowed to deviate from design specifications.

I wondered whether lapping the barrel might be a process that would allow me to relieve the tight spots in the barrel, make the bore more uniform in diameter over its entire length, clean up some of the pitting, and result in shooting smaller groups. Through some online research, I ran across a 2-part YouTube video describing a lapping process which I found very informative:

Part 1:
Part 2:

Having a metal lathe and the ability to machine everything I needed, I thought I'd give this a try.

For my lapping process I used some 800 grit lapping compound. I focused on lapping the barrel in the two areas where the bore was tight. Once those two tight areas were mostly relieved, I continued the lapping process until I felt fairly consistent resistance on the cleaning rod for most of the length of the barrel. The exception was that the bore was still somewhat loser at the muzzle. I spent about 2 hours on the lapping process, and probably made 400-500 lapping strokes, wiping off old and applying new lapping compound multiple times throughout the process. Once satisfied with the lapping job, clean-up followed using spray brake cleaner to flush the bulk of the lapping compound out of the bore, then multiple rounds of barrel cleaning with a bronze bore brush and Hoppe's solvent, and swabbing out with cleaning patches. In addition to the barrel lapping, I also lapped the crown of the barrel using a round-head, slotted brass screw in a drill and two different grits of lapping compound.

Whether the lapping effort made any difference in the shooting capability of the rifle could only be determined at the rifle range. Using the same load that had previously allowed me to shoot a 1" group, I shot three 5-shot targets to assess the performance quality. The test did not show that the lapping had reduced group size, but it did seem to reduce the extreme flyers that I had previously experienced. This was demonstrated by the mean radius of the groups shrinking from well over 1" in my previous shooting results to under 1" for all three test targets I shot after lapping the barrel. For all three test targets, 3 of the shots in the 5-shot group clustered within one inch, with one target having a 3-shot cluster under 0.4".

The conclusions are that my old 1917 Enfield with the original barrel is never going to be a high precision rifle and is going to remain a 1.5" to 2" grouper. The epoxy steel bedding had the most impact on reducing group sizes, but the lapping work only seemed to make the rifle a more consistent shooter and reduce the extreme bullet spreads I previously experienced. All of my work resulted in shooting performance far better than it started off, and I feel it will be plenty good for hunting large varmints like feral hogs.
 
Nice write-up!

Who is your barrel manufacturer? Ive observed much better accuracy with my Eddystone- barrelled gun over the last one I had with a Johnson barrel.
My Enfield was manufactured by Winchester. It is the original 5-groove, left-hand twist barrel that had been shortened to 22" when the rifle was sporterized before I acquired it some 50 years ago.
 
Because the original barrels were all 26" long.
What I meant was how would you know the original barrel manufacturer since the manufacturer/ date stamp would be removed with the cut-off part of the barrel.

I guess it could still be a Remington or Eddystone barrel, but not a High Standard or Johnson, since those would be 4 or 2 groove.

Doesnt really matter, I suppose. Glad to hear the OP is happy with his gun.:)
 
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I really think that the P14 and its American cousin, the 1917 U.S. rifle were the epitome of the Mauser design in a military rifle (not talking about sporters here) in WWI. You are probably getting about the maximum accuracy that you can from the old warhorse. Thanks for your writeup in this and your previous postings.

Now about the barrel, there is some speculation on the boards that at least some of the m1917 WWI era barrels had a slight taper in diameter from the breech to the muzzle going from looser to tighter. One of my wartime barrels that I acquired was pretty badly worn so there was no way to tell. The other, I haven't checked and one of my other ones has a WWII era High Standard barrel. My P14's do seem a bit tighter toward the muzzle when I clean them but their barrels are practically new for a century old warhorse.

It could be simply that machining during a war time with a shortage of skilled labor could have resulted in poorer quality control and depending on how the barrel was secured when cutting the length, it is possible that a bore constriction could have been created. Wear might also do it and a borescope would probably tell the tale if that were the case.
 
Any ideas that wartime barrels were target barrels is wishful thinking. Recruits were training with brooms because there were not enough rifles to go around. You can find pictures of rear line troops with Krags, in Europe, but at least the crash rifle production of Remington, Winchester, Eddystone ensured that each frontline doughboy had a fully functional 30-06 rifle. Getting the rifles out the door was the important thing, they were never expected to be anything but front line rifles that needed to go bang. None of my M1917's were all that accurate, a 2 MOA M1917 barrel is a good barrel, perhaps an above average barrel. My Canadian M1917 was well used, and I don't know by how many Armies, before I got the thing. Even after bedding, it is a three to four MOA affair.

W7SZIpw.jpg

This is the notch the Canadians cut in these things. I don't know why they did this.

v7GFins.jpg
 
Any ideas that wartime barrels were target barrels is wishful thinking. Recruits were training with brooms because there were not enough rifles to go around. You can find pictures of rear line troops with Krags, in Europe, but at least the crash rifle production of Remington, Winchester, Eddystone ensured that each frontline doughboy had a fully functional 30-06 rifle. Getting the rifles out the door was the important thing, they were never expected to be anything but front line rifles that needed to go bang. None of my M1917's were all that accurate, a 2 MOA M1917 barrel is a good barrel, perhaps an above average barrel. My Canadian M1917 was well used, and I don't know by how many Armies, before I got the thing. Even after bedding, it is a three to four MOA affair.

View attachment 857406

This is the notch the Canadians cut in these things. I don't know why they did this.

View attachment 857407
For a longer bullet? Maybe a 200-220 gr roundnose perhaps? Just conjecture. Dont know why they would want one.....
 
Any ideas that wartime barrels were target barrels is wishful thinking. . . . . a 2 MOA M1917 barrel is a good barrel, perhaps an above average barrel.

I never expected my 1917 Enfield to be a benchrest quality rifle, but just did everything I was able to do to try to get the group size as small as possible. As noted in my post, it shoots way better than it did when I started. I'm perfectly happy now that I have it where it will consistently shoot 2 MOA or less and sometimes reward me with a 1 MOA group. And mine does prefer .311" diameter bullets over .308" diameter bullets, and there's a reasonably good selection of .311" bullets available.
 
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