Large pistol primers for reloading paper and plastic shotgun hulls

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hang fire

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I have been thinking of buying a .410 shotshell reloading press. Lee no longer makes a reloader for the .410 (and Lee confirmed in an email today they have no intentions of doing so) so the next choice was a MEC JR. But the 170-190 dollar price was a bit of a put off.

I spent some time today on the web researching alternative methods of reloading the .410 and found several different means of doing so.

Afterwards was fooling around with a .45-70 310 tool and inserted a 2 1/2” fired .410 plastic hull into depriming die to see if it would deprime it. As I squeezed the handles shut, was evident it could not, as there was nowhere for it to go. But it did do one thing, It started to push out the inner primer only and not the entire 209 primer. I removed the hull, sit it on piece of a aluminum plate with a hole drilled just large enough for the inner primer to pass through. I took and pushed an old deprimer rod into the hull and felt pin go into center of the 209 primer, tapped the rod with a plastic hammer and the inner primer came out. I took a look at it, then miked it and a large pistol primer and found them to be the same .210” OD.

I then seated the LPP (anyone familiar with the old Lee reloader knows how) flush in the now empty former 209, it fit tight and looked perfect.

As the .410 rim OD was .530”, using a 1/2” mill I sunk a hole about .125” deep in the aluminum plate and with judicious use of the mill table X-Y, enlarged hole to .550”. I then drilled a 1” hole in center of the milled counter sink and on through the aluminum plate. It was then a simple matter with the depriming rod pin to remove the spent center primers from several other fired hulls and reprimed with LPP.

The wife involuntarily lent me the the use of her Taurus Judge to test with. Loaded five of the primed only hulls, and it was bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, with wife in shop grimacing at each bang. Redid the hulls and followed with about 20 more bangs without a misfire. All the LPP stayed in original position, with none moving forward or backing out.

So, my next step is to set up reloading with one of the, or, my own, alternative method of reloading .410 shot shells. Using the LPP, I will start off with light loads and if things look good, incrementally increasing until arrive at a satisfactory load as to power and shot weight.

Others no doubt have tried using the LPP as I did for paper or plastic hulls, but found nothing on the Web except about use in the brass shotshells.
 
I have tried a lot of things .410 wise and this was not one of them however. If you make your hole in the plate a bit larger and the punch a bit larger you will get what the Lee Loader uses to deprime the 209 primers with. Then get a 444 Marlin sizing die (it will be hardened steel) and open it up a bit with your lathe to "fit a new shotshell" diameter hole. Then buy a roll crimp tool with dual rollers from Ballistic Products. Make a set of hardwood seating rods to seat the primer and wad and you are good to go. OR find a used MEC 600 JR for about $75 or so. With both these methods you will be able to use published data which is REALLY more convenient as well as safer IMHO. I agree that the reloading tools that are presently used for .410 either cost excessively or are not readily available anymore. Might be the time to start assembling a hand kit to reload ammo that is of your own design for .410.;)
 
Have found I was using the wrong wording when searching Google.

I refered to using LPP for loading shotshell hulls.

But, when rebuilding shotshell primers, bingo.

There is even a patent for a device to do such.

SHOTGUN SHELL PRIMER REBUILDER
United States Patent 3750528


Oh well, NNUTS (nothing new under the sun) prevails again. But it is good to know it has been done before.
 
I hear that all the time, but one has yet to say exactly where a good used one is for such a price.

I have been reloading for 50+ years, no accidents to date.
 
Go for it. I was telling another guy about this a few months ago. Nothing new indeed.
 
I hear that all the time, but one has yet to say exactly where a good used one is for such a price.

I have been reloading for 50+ years, no accidents to date.

While I would recommend getting a proper loader for loading the .410, I will suggest doing more searches on the internet. Google, Yahoo, bing, or the search engine of your choice.

A couple years ago when I was looking for information on smokless powder loades for brass .410 hulls, I found lots of information relative to loading any .410 shells.

Be creative and spend the time. You should get rewarded.
 
While I would recommend getting a proper loader for loading the .410, I will suggest doing more searches on the internet. Google, Yahoo, bing, or the search engine of your choice.

A couple years ago when I was looking for information on smokless powder loades for brass .410 hulls, I found lots of information relative to loading any .410 shells.

Be creative and spend the time. You should get rewarded.


From my OP:
I spent some time today on the web researching alternative methods of reloading the .410 and found several different means of doing so.

With Magtech .410 brass one is limited to 2 1/4" length. .444 Marlin brass is also short, fire formed .303 British needs to have rims turned down a bit, same for .30-40 Krag.
 
Try your local Craig's List, Shotgunworld.com sales section, WTB sections here and similar places

You can also go to your local shotgun clubs - the trap/skeet kind and put a want to buy ad on the bulletin board

Have seen Jr.s for 45-75 dollars all day long - even bought one to convert to 28 gauge
 
I use the 444 brass and it is pretty close to 410. I also use 44-40 brass for my little boy but 30 yards is max with it.
 
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