Lauer's Duracoat

[osteodoc08]

I'm looking to refinishing a RIA compact that I've been tinkering with for a while. I've added a new beavertail, hammer, slidestop, thumb saftey all in SS and for internals a new disconnect and sear. I had to do some work for the beavertail to work and I'd like to refinish it with Lauer's Duracoat and give it to my father as a present, because he definitely deserves it and best of all it will be his first 1911.

My questions pertaining to the Duracoat are as folows:

1. Is it hard to apply?
2. I've got an airbrush I use on some model cars, will it work for the Duracoat?
3. I also need to add sights to it. Should I have them done before or after?
4. Any pics of a fellow THR's handywork?
5. Anything else I should use instead?
6. Any tips?

Thanks guys.

 

[berettaman]

1. Easy to apply.
2. Perfect for small arms refinishing.
3. After
4.

5. Duracoat is a very hard wearing finish.
6. Metal prep is key.A good clean/grease-free surface works best.Mix enough up to do all the parts with the same batch.The amount of hardner determines the finish.More hardner the shineyier the finish.Less more of a matte finish.(don't want contrasting results if you get the mix a bit off)The good thing is if you get "oops's" you can just let it dry,sand,retouch and then when it's how you like it,Bake It!

 

[osteodoc08]

Spot on with the answers, thank you very much.

I guess I will continue this project and if I procrastinate long enough, it will be ready just in time for father's day, although I don't think I can wait that long OK, we'll just call it a very, very early father's day gift.

 

[BillinNH]

How well does it look/last on a stainless steel finish? A ruger SP101 for example.

Bill

 

[wrinkles]

I used Norrell's Molyresin, grey/green. I agree with berettaman surface prep is the key. I stripped my old finish then parkerized then painted. Make sure there is no grease before you paint.