Leading

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CLP

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Does anyone have a good photo of what leading looks in a barrel? I'm a dabbler and thought about casting some bullets after I get a sizer (already cast for BP rifle and revolver- of course they're not pushed fast enough to cause it). I did a search but I couldn't tell apart leading from normal fouling from the images I searched through.
 
Others more knowledgeable will better explain but this is what I have seen in my semi-auto pistol barrels:

Silver colored smearing near chamber end - Packed deposit likely from gas cutting. Hoppes #9 won't remove it and lead solvent will dissolve it a bit. Best removed by copper strand (Chore Boy) wrapped bore brush. Increasing OAL will help.

Smearing spots on rifling at different locations - Probably from bullet skidding, insufficient lube and undersIzed bullet in oversized barrel. For my oversized PT145 barrel, switching from18 BHN to softer 12 BHN bullets solved this problem. Same removal method as above

Smearing at muzzle end or full length smearing - Likely from pushing bullets too hard. When I was load testing Missouri 18 BHN 9mm RN (Small Ball) with 4.2-4.4 gr of W231/HP-38 that worked with 22-24 BHN bullets, I got this type of leading in my Lone Wolf barrels. Reducing powder charges to 3.8-4.0 gr resolved this problem.

Long flaky lead strips - I usually don't see this often and I think this is what many people claim that can be removed by shooting few rounds of jacketed/plated rounds. The different types of smearing I mentioned above are not removed by shooting jacketed/plated rounds of (I already tried).
 
Best removed by copper strand (Chore Boy) wrapped bore brush. Increasing OAL will help.

A side note about this. I did this for about a year before realizing that 99% of the "chore boys" that you get at the grocery store are just copper washed steel. I cringe at the damage I probably did do (even though I can't see any) or how much life I might have taken from my barrels continuing to use them.

I have since ordered some 100% copper chore boys off of amazon and even ran a magnet over them for good measure.

You just cut them with scissors, wrap a few strands around an old cleaning brush and run it through the barrel a few times. The barrel will look good as new. A couple of chore boys will probably last you a lifetime.

Now you will most definitely have some folks come along and tell you that you should NEVER get leading and that it is your incompetence and the end of the world if you do... I'm not sure that any new caster has not experienced at least some leading when getting started. It is how you learn what to do or not do.
 
Here is what one of my revolvers looks like after 100+ cast loads through it,
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It seemed to get to that point and simply level out. I have cleaned it once since that picture and probably have close to 250 through it now, and it looks about the same as above.

Now this is what your not wanting to see,
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or even this,
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Like mentioned above though, it only takes a few minutes to remove using the copper chore boy wrapped around a bronze brush. Add in a little Kroil and let it work for a half hour prior and go to town.

That said the best way to NOT see it is to simply try your best to avoid it. This might mean you need to slug your barrel, (easiest way to know what you need to size your bullets too,) you might need to strengthen your alloy depending on what your looking at pouring for. Do a little research on pressures and how it effects the alloy, and what hardness, or alloy works best at what pressures.

Lube is next in line. Most loads can easily get by using plain ol mule snot, (Alox). It is a bit messy and slow, but it does indeed work very well for most applications. It is especially good when using the push through sizer like Lee makes. Lube once before sizing, and once after and once dry your good to go.

Some of the higher pressure and velocity loads however benefit form a bit more substantial lube such as some of the commercial or home made versions.

With the lubes I HIGHLY suggest looking up White Label Lubes. If your simply looking to tumble lube get a jug of the Xlox 45/45/10 blend. It will go on thin, dry fast, and lube just as well as the straight version of Alox.

If you want to pan lube, pick up some of his stick or slab in 50-50, BAC, or Carnuba Red depending on just how hard you want to push things. Use from slow to fast in the order I listed them. They make remarkable lubes and price them at a point that you can hardly make it yourself for what they cost ready to use.

If you have some clip on wheel weights, or range scrap, either of those can be used for most handgun loads in plain form or alloyed softer or harder depending on what your shooting. Rotometals would be the best place to shop if you simply want to harden up something you already have on hand. They have a formula listed to help out when adding hardness to your alloy, and if that isn't up to snuff, there is an alloy calculator loaded up over on Castboolits that is a real nice little spreadsheet. It has most alloys already in it and you simply go from there to blend up what you need or want. While it isn't down to the last molecule accurate, it is plenty close enough for blending up repeatable alloy.
 
Well, since you are new at this, and likely going to be using lee push through equipment...

Do yourself a favor, and just start powdercoating.

Since preventing leading is as much science as it is art, you can sidestep all of the load development and just move right over to powdercoating, and never have to worry about it.
 
+1 on the powder coating. There are a lot of detractors... I just haven't met any who have actually done it:)
 
Well, I have some detractions- but I'm just getting into it :D

One of its best applications thus far seems to be glock rifling.

I'm still not sure its worth the effort in areas I've already "done the math", but it certainly would make shooting cast lead a lot easier for a novice.
 
Those pictures were helpful. I got Lyman's book on casting yesterday and it explains a lot of the details but the pics are all B&W- not as good as these. I'm trying to avoid a tedious clean-up job. I'm less worried about it now. I'm going to start out by only loading 225g RN bullets of proper BH, probably 900ish fps at max. I wouldn't imagine such a load could lead to leading.
 
Anybody who does much cast bullet shooting, especially if you cast your own, is going to find bullets/loads that just seem to lead up a barrel.
Doesn't take long to see it after shooting through a good clean barrel.
Finding the right alloy and velocity is where the fun/work begins to have them shoot clean.
 
I can't think of a pistol that I have shot with commercial cast bullets that does not show some leading. This week shot a 357, 44 Spl and 45 ACP all had traces of leading which I shot out with jacketed bullets.

I had a case of Aquila 32 S&W Long factory ammunition, it only went 625 fps in my pistol, but the stuff leaded the barrel to an incredible level. At some point the rifling was not visible. With enough jacketed ammunition I was able to shoot the leading out.

I have not tried any greasing experiments on cast bullets, but like the centerfire rifle shooters of old, who dipped their bullets into axle grease to prevent cupronickel bullet fouling, I don't see why a soft grease dip for cast bullets would not help.
 
Bullet lubes are another whole ball game :)
I've done a little experimenting, but noy a lot.
I have a few loads that just lead up some barrels, no biggie, I just clean them out.
I also cast a lot of gas check bullets, they're the cats meow except for the cost of those little buggers anymore.
 
I wasn't a detractor of powder coating, I simply didn't want to take the time to make metal screen contraptions or buy electrostatic sprayers and go through a big process just to coat 50 or so bullets at a time. With tumble lubing, I would toss several hundred bullets in a gallon ziplock bag, squirt 45/45/10 into it, massage it for a minute and pour them out into a wax paper lined box and they would be dry the next morning. All for a few pennies. I would have a very small amount of leading after a typical 200 round session that would clean up with 45 seconds of Chore Boy/Bore Mop.

With the advent of dry tumble PC with airsoft BB's I can now coat 500 rounds in about an hour (over 200 in a single tumble in a Styrofoam medical mailing container) for a couple of pennies and get zero leading.

As always fit is king, but with PC, the fit only needs to be "good enough".
 
Lewis lead removal tool which you can get at Brownells for serious leading--use Choreboy copper pan scrubber as mentioned above for lighter leading. You can also use tornado type wire brushes for better removal of lead without killing your barrel which come in brass or steel (supposedly the steel won't damage your barrel due to the wire bristles being contained and not digging into your barrel). YMMV.

Currently, I am taking a long hard look at powder coating to get away from using these contraptions.
 
Just a pull or two with the lewis lead remover is all it takes. It is the fastest, easiest method of removing any amount of lead.
 
with revolvers, if your cylinder throat aint rite, you will get leading. make it rite.

i only shoot 452 bullets in my autos and revolvers. the autos dont show any probs. so far.lee tumble lube.

my single action ruger does. it needs the cylinder throats reamed. my kimber shoots the same bullets trouble free.no leading good accuracy.

cast bullets have a learning curve. its well worth learning
 
oh as a side note. im sure the lewis lead remover is a good product. but a few strands of copper chore boy wrapped around a bristle brush does the same thing. ive seen it push the lead out and restore accuracy in my ruger single action blackhawk in 45lc. you can put a white cloth down at the muzzel and see the flakes of lead come out.

but the fact remains, if you are getting leading yu have either a bullet dia prob or a lube prob or a velocity prob. among others.

again cast bullets are a learning curve. yu have a lot of werk to do.
 
hate to be redundant but in reading previous posts again. i dont see how powder coating bullets can make a wrong sized bullet for your chamber throat work? if your bullet is a little small maybe, if its a little large no way. hope to hear yu guys input on this.
 
Other than Lee Sizers, no special tools besides a #5 container and airsoft bbs are required to powdercoat, from 2 to 200 @ a time.
 
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