Lee Pro 1000 questions

[kfelder]

I was at Cabela's today and found a Lee Pro 1000 in the bargain cave for $95. Salesman said it was a customer return and all parts were in the box, I haven't opened it to check yet. It is for 45 colt which I don't reload so that leads to my first question.

What do I need to convert it to 9mm or any other caliber? I think I need a complete carrier but is there any thing else? I already have the dies.

I've heard the priming system on the pro 1000 sucks and I usually prime off the press anyways, so this lead to my next question or confirmation what I'm planning on doing.

I will resize/deprime on single stage and then prime off press. On the pro 1000 I would have my powder thru expanding die in station 1, seater in station 2 and crimper in station 3. Only using crimp to remove flare.

Will this die placement work? If not I will give the priming system a chance.

Thanks for any info.

 

[LiveLife]

What do I need to convert it to 9mm or any other caliber? I think I need a complete carrier but is there any thing else? I already have the dies.

If you go the way of complete carrier #19, you'll still need to buy small case feeder, small slider and 3-hole turret. Your kit probably did not come with a case collator, but it is highly recommended to fill the case feeder tubes fast. When using the case collator with the smaller 9mm cases, some of the cases will drop into the tube with case mouth down instead of case base down. This mod using a drilled penny and spent 22LR case will prevent most of that from happening - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=6322330#post6322330


Since you already have dies, to do a caliber conversion to 9mm without a spare shell plate carrier, you'll need to purchase the following:

- 3 hole turret.
- #19 shell plate
- Small primer feed attachment (the kit comes with both large/small feed ramps, L/S rods, springs and primer tray so you'll have a spare large attachment)
- Small case feeder
- Small case slider

I've heard the priming system on the pro 1000 sucks and I usually prime off the press anyways

It sucks if you do not keep the feed ramp full of primers (especially small primers) so the next primer is not pushed into station #2 and it really sucks when using larger diameter Wolf/Tula primers with tight primer pocket cases like S&B/RWS. To seat Wolf/Tula LP primers in some once-fired 45ACP cases, I must hold the frame bar with my left hand and push hard with my right hand (can you say resistance work out? ). In contrast, Winchester, CCI and Magtech primers work much better with Pro 1000 primer feed attachment.

Many have successfully worked with the gravity based primer feed system to be more reliable (When I press prime, I watch the column of primers in the feed ramp and if I do not see the column move down, I will use a bent paper clip or small screwdriver to push the next primer into station #2). If you want to try press priming, try these fixes (see post #65 and #67) - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7773536#post7773536

I will resize/deprime on single stage and then prime off press. On the pro 1000 I would have my powder thru expanding die in station 1, seater in station 2 and crimper in station 3. Only using crimp to remove flare.

With the case feeder attached and only resizing/deprimging die in station 1, you can deprime/resize a whole bunch of cases in a hurry. If you hand primed the cases, you can flare/powder charge in station 1, seat in station 2 and taper crimp in station 3.

Also, if you do not want to fuss with the chain for the Pro Auto Disk powder measure, you can use the spring and lever from the turret press (some have hung heavy enough weight to return the disk under the hopper but I have not tested that yet) - https://fsreloading.com/parts.php?product=90578

 

[Lost Sheep]

You will not need the extra 3-hole turret. Just take the 45 Colt dies out of the one you have and put the 9mm dies in and adjust them.

I used two pro-1000 presses. Progressive reloading does not suit me, so I traded them off and got a Lee Classic Turret. But my choice may not be right for you, and if you don't switch calibers as often as I do, are more comfortable monitoring simultaneous operations than I am you might be happy.

What really turned me off the Pro-1000s was the spent primer handling, the new primer handling and the simultaneous operations, which made me nervous as a long-tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs.

I suggest you try it. Ask if the store will substitute the 9mm parts at no cost (or reasonable restock charge).

Good Luck

Lost Sheep

 

[Mike Kerr]

You have received some good information in previous posts. It is possible to "RIG" the Pro 1000 in a number of ways including your idea of switching the powder drop to station 1 and utilizing Station 2 and 3 as you suggest. In years/decades past I did exactly what you propose. It worked but it is still an interim fix around the Pro 1000 'priming situation' .

You can give it a try - maybe it will work for you. You can also try a version of BDS suggestion of utilizing station 1 to deprime with the case feeder helping you increase speed - then prime by hand. After you have a few hundred primed and ready you can put the Dies back in Your suggested order and proceed to load. The price of the unit at $95 sounds pretty good - I would think you should seriously consider it. If the Pro 1000 is not for you you won't lose much.

regards,

 

[kingmt]

If your going to use the dies in that order you need the spring instead of the chain on the powder measure.

I swage all new to me 9mm brass. Crimped primer pockets will give you fits on this press. I made a new ejector for mine with a paper clip. I also changed the spring on the chain to one from a ink pen. Not that this mod would help it run any better just before I got mine I read about people breaking the chain so I thought it was a better idea. I have read that other people had the same idea.

 

[evan price]

As long as you keep the primer chute full of primers and have the timing set correctly you won't have a priming problem with a pro-1000 press.

Resize, deprime and reprime off the press negates the value of a progressive. If you're going to do that, sell the Pro-1000 and buy a turret press.

I've loaded thousands and thousands of rounds on my Pro1000 of all sorts of calibers, once I figured out how to run it I don't have problems. I'm not going to say the Pro-1000 is the awesomest press out there but it can be made to run well.

 

[kingmt]

I agree with even price except there is a few things you can drop wrong to cause problems. Like I said earlier crimped primers & I remember bds saying powder in the shoot. He has also showed that a damaged one can cause problems.

 

[Uniquedot]

I had one of these for a while and it didn't take long for me to figure out how to operate it reliably. The priming system worked well when instructions are followed and shell plates are inexpensive if you opt to change those instead of the entire carrier. I gave mine to my brother when i bought my loadmaster, but wouldn't hesitate to buy another at that price.

 

[kfelder]

Thanks for all the helpful information. I have been convinced to give the priming system a try after reading several tips to have run reliably. I have all needed parts to convert my 45 colt press to 9mm in my cart at fsreloading.

Are there parts that wear out that I should added to my cart?

Thanks again for all the great info!

 

[lee n. field]

It is for 45 colt which I don't reload so that leads to my first question.

What do I need to convert it to 9mm or any other caliber? I think I need a complete carrier but is there any thing else? I already have the dies.

You need the proper shell plate. You'll need the small primer feed. You'll need Lee's powder through expander die for your cartridge of choice -- might as well get the whole Lee dieset.

You'll need to remove the shellplate carrier, remove the .45 colt shellplate, swap the primer feed, install the new shellplate. Then, reinstall the shellplate carrier. Install the rotor. With everything in place, the shellplate rotational position needs to be adjusted (snaps into place, then 1/2 extra turn of the adjusting screw).

Install and adjust the dies. Swap in the appropriate powder measure cavity from the chart.

Run a round through and check it.

Are there parts that wear out that I should added to my cart?

There's an inexpensive plastic ratchet gear that needs to be replaced every 2-3000 rounds.

 

[kingmt]

I haven't replaced any yet. You don't have to take the carrier off to change shell plates.