Light strikes on a S&W 28.

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Feanaro

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I just got home from an unsanctioned IDPA match and I ain't happy. I got two light strikes with my 28-2 on one of the last stages. This was with Remington ammo, the 100 round box .38 +P. "Just cheap ammo," me thinks. Then, on the final stage, FIVE Federal Hydrashocks fail to fire. Light strikes on all of them.

Everyone gathered around. The firing pin is fine and unimpeded. Timing is good. All the light strikes were square on the primers. I'm going to shoot it again soon, see if it was a freak accident. If it wasn't, what could be the culprit? Weak mainspring?
 
You haven't fiddled with the mainspring tension screw there on the front of the frame, have you? That's generally the major cause of light strikes. That or you have something in the firing pin hole like a dustball stopping the firing pin from really hitting.

The Doc is out now. :cool:
 
I agree. Check the strain screw first, on the front of the grip frame. Make sure it's in all the way, or just a little out from all the way.
 
Hi FEANARO,
Sorry about your situation.
Check the easy stuff first. Mainspring screw, then access the interior and check for an obstruction/dirt and then check static main spring weight with a set of trigger weights.

Might just be time to put in a new set of springs.

Have a great day!
 
I assume that you were shooting double action in view of "at an IDPA match". Hundred bucks says strain screw backed out or filed down as mentioned above. Backing the strain screw out is/was the amature gunsmiths answer to "trigger job", or lighter double action pull. One thing I've noticed about competitive shooting-IPSC/IDPA; Once you step into the box and "load and make ready", anything that can, will go wrong.
 
As it was mentioned, the first thing to check is the strain screw. The second would be the main spring itself.
Third would be firing pin protrusion. It should protrude basically as much as a dime is thick.

Let us know how is goes from here and we will open our "box of advice" and pour it over you:D
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I just checked on all of those things. With the exception of removing the cylinder, I've never done any gunsmithin' to it. None of the screws show any evidence of being touched. I don't know what the strain screw is supposed to look like, but it's flush and doesn't show obvious signs of filing. Worked for more than 1,000 rounds before last night. Already checked the firing pin protusion, it's good.

I think I've figured the problem out though. As usual, it's the idiot on the other end. ;) I have this tendency, without thinking about it, to perch my right thumb on the ledge beside the hammer. Even if I start out with another grip, I often end my string that way. Well, experimenting with that grip, I can reduce the velocity of the hammer without noticing it in the trigger pull. That could explain why it happened at random. Looks like I've still got to iron out this revolver-to-hand relationship.

Only one true test though; shoot some more. :D

One thing I've noticed about competitive shooting-IPSC/IDPA; Once you step into the box and "load and make ready", anything that can, will go wrong.

Man, and how. Murphy must have been a competition shooter.
 
If your previous solution doesn't work, try backing out the strain screw then place a used primer between the end of the screw and the mainspring. Tighten the screw down as far as it will go. If this solves the problem, you need a new mainspring.
 
Seven High,

that is an excellent idea to test and eliminate weak main spring related problems!
 
it worked with my 70 year old m&p that wasn't setting off cci primers.
 
My 686 started doing the same thing. I was at the outdoor range and when shooting double action I started getting misfires. I was shooting my own reloads which I have a high degree of confidence in.

I had probably 800 rounds through the gun. Strain screw was tight so I did the renowned add a primer trick and it fired 100%. The gun was bone stock with no gunsmithing at all done to it.

Soon as I got home I ordered two new mainsprings and it is back to firing 100% again.

It seems like the mainsprings wear out quicker now than they used to. I have some 20 year old K frames that still work with the original.
 
Going to the range tomorrow, we'll see.

It seems like the mainsprings wear out quicker now than they used to. I have some 20 year old K frames that still work with the original.

The mainspring in this puppy is 40 years old, unless it has been replaced at some point.
 
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