Long term holster storage.

[Dan Forrester]

Hi everyone. Ive got quite a few holster and accessories from C&R firearms. Everything from those Nagant holsters made from whatever they were made from to Chinese Cultural Revolution "pleather" SKS bandoleers to MAS 49/56 leather pouches . Whats a good long term was to store all this?

I had them all in a couple cardboard boxes out in the garage but noticed mold on some of the leather. I was thinking of hitting all of the leather with neatsfoot oil and then putting them into an airtight container with a large reusable descant. Is this a bad idea or should I just oil them and bring them into the air conditioner.

Thanks, Dan

 

[Col. Harrumph]

For actual leather, Lexol and air conditioning.

 

[aarondhgraham]

You might wipe them off with a vinegar.water solution,,,
A 50/50 mixture will kill the mold.

Then lightly oil them with neatsfoot oil,,,
There is no advantage to sealing them in a baggie,,,
In fact this will serve as an "incubator" for more mold growth.

Aarond

.

 

[bassjam]

I'm not sure I'd use any conditioner on the leather, it could make the leather too soft. I guess if I had to I might use a light coating of Lexol.

But definitely bring it in to a controlled temperature/humidity environment.

 

[Dan Forrester]

I appreciate all the responses!. Bought some Lexol on Amazon. Planning to go over them really light with the Lexol this weekend and bring them into the A/C.

Thanks, Dan

 

[Zebraranger]

For actual leather, Lexol and air conditioning.

Pretty much what I do, I just wipe the leather holsters down every once in a while with a leather cleaner/lotion. I built a rack that sits on top of the safe that holds about 20 of them so that air can circulate amongst them. The smaller pocket holsters can fit in between, but I just keep them behind a bungee net in the door since I only have two of them.

 

[CraigC]

Leather is a natural material, it needs to breathe. It also absorbs moisture so sitting in your humid Florida garage is not the best place for it. Might as well put it in the toilet tank. Kill the mold with lemon juice, clean it with saddle soap and condition it with Lexol or a light coating of extra virgin olive oil. Then store it in a climate controlled area where it can breathe. Not sealed in a plastic bag.

Vinegar will kill the mold but if any lingers, it will rust your guns. Best to follow with a baking soda solution to neutralize it.

 

[RPZ]

I don't use any oil on holsters, belts, etc. I use Renaissance Wax mostly. That or Pecard's Leather Dressing.

 

[CraigC]

Pecard's replenishes the moisture just like oil does. Wax is just a protectant.

 

[RPZ]

Pecard's replenishes the moisture just like oil does. Wax is just a protectant.

Yeah but oil can go rancid, and causes leather to lose form and stiffness. Found this out with leather mountain climbing boots way back. I never use oil on a holster or belt. Pecard products are used widely, including the conservation of antique leather militaria etc.

Wax does protect and helps stop leather from drying out and cracking. Renaissance Wax is the best there is imo. I have used it on leather duty gear that has lasted many years in the extreme heat and humidity of Texas. They still look great and are functional.

 

[CraigC]

Extra virgin olive oil is PH neutral. It goes rancid in a very long period of time, in storage. It does not go rancid on leather. It's been used to preserve leather for 2000yrs. As I said in the other thread, oil only makes leather soft if you overdo it. John Bianchi dips his completed rigs in warm neatsfoot oil before the final finish. I apply two or three coats of EVOO to everything I make. It does not make the leather soft. It makes it last.

Aside from whatever moisture it traps, wax and shoe polish do nothing to keep leather from drying out and cracking.

 

[doubleh]

If he were still alive there was an old bootmaker and shoe repairman that I was good friends with that could make an argument against your statement about wax and shoe polish doing nothing to to prevent leather from drying and cracking. I'm sure he had more experience with leather than you and I combined. Everything he ever taught me about leather proved to be true.

 

[CraigC]

Then you can kindly explain how a wax coating replenishes leather's natural moisture.

This ain't a boot or shoe discussion.

 

[CraigC]

I had no idea that shoe polish has oil in it. So if you're using shoe polish, you're oiling your leather. I would never use shoe polish on gunleather because I don't want the original dye getting contaminated with the shoe polish color and I also don't want the shoe polish to dissolve whatever finish has been applied to the leather. Shoe polish is for shoes.

Wax is just wax and does nothing to keep your leather from drying and cracking.

http://oldleathershoe.com/wordpress/?p=122

 

[RPZ]

Then you can kindly explain how a wax coating replenishes leather's natural moisture.

This ain't a boot or shoe discussion.

You're going off the rail here. No one said wax "replaces moisture".

Both products I mentioned are widely used by conservators - museums etc - for the care and preservation of leather militaria - including holsters belts, pouches etc.

I would add that I use the Renaissance Wax almost exclusively - unless the leather shows signs of drying out.

 

[CraigC]

No, you don't understand. Leather needs more than just a protectant. A protectant doesn't keep the underlying leather from drying out and cracking and it doesn't replace the moisture that is lost through the tanning process, tooling, wet forming, dyeing and the passage of time. Leather is a natural material and since it's no longer covering a living creature, it must have its moisture periodically replenished externally in the form of conditioners like Skidmore's, Lexol, Pecard's or oil. Wax doesn't do that. Do you think the final protective finish precludes the need to oil beforehand? Absolutely not. I'm working with a batch of hides right now that cracks if I don't make sure it's good and damp when I work it and oil the hell out of it before I finish it. I apply two to three (or more) light coats of oil, just as John Bianchi himself dips his completed rigs in warm neatsfoot oil. If you think these processes make the leather soft and floppy, you are misinformed.

I really don't care what museum curators do. They're trying to preserve a historical artifact that is not used or ever exposed to the elements. If you think that historical pieces are never rejuvenated with oils and conditioners, you're wrong.

 

[RPZ]

No, you don't understand. Leather needs more than just a protectant. A protectant doesn't keep the underlying leather from drying out and cracking and it doesn't replace the moisture that is lost through the tanning process, tooling, wet forming, dyeing and the passage of time. Leather is a natural material and since it's no longer covering a living creature, it must have its moisture periodically replenished externally in the form of conditioners like Skidmore's, Lexol, Pecard's or oil. Wax doesn't do that. Do you think the final protective finish precludes the need to oil beforehand? Absolutely not. I'm working with a batch of hides right now that cracks if I don't make sure it's good and damp when I work it and oil the hell out of it before I finish it. I apply two to three (or more) light coats of oil, just as John Bianchi himself dips his completed rigs in warm neatsfoot oil. If you think these processes make the leather soft and floppy, you are misinformed.

I really don't care what museum curators do. They're trying to preserve a historical artifact that is not used or ever exposed to the elements. If you think that historical pieces are never rejuvenated with oils and conditioners, you're wrong.

Actually, I do understand. The Poster was seeking advice on long term holster storage. Generally, this is what museums, and conservators are all about.

I did mention Pecard. I have also used Lexol, and Neatsfoot oil on boots, along with a few other assorted products in the past.

Funny you should mention "used" and "exposed to the elements" now, since I did make a reference to that earlier on my part.... ..First two photos are a Bianchi thumb break I have used for the last 3 years "full time" on an outdoor assignment in the SE Texas sun, rain, cold come what may. That translates into a few thousand hours outdoors. The "black" cell phone pouch has been on there as long as the holster. Note that there is just some minor cracking on the outside retention strap. This holster had a thorough treatment with Renaissance Wax once when I bought it, and a dab or two on the retention part since. That's it. And I am still using it.

Photo 3, 4 and 5 are another Bianchi thumb break holster and belt I have used for both outdoor and indoor assignments in SE Texas off and on about 7 of the last 18 years. Yes, 18 years - and otherwise was stored in a box with the other assorted leather gear on the belt. And what has kept it in such good shape? Renaissance Wax only, when new, and a few times since. It is still in great serviceable condition.

 

[CraigC]

Sorry but a museum relic and "long term storage" for an individual with relatively new leather goods ain't the same thing.

The fact that you have not oiled your leather does not mean it does not need it. Let alone that leather never needs anything but wax. Sorry but this is just false. The fact that it's cracked around the retention strap is proof that it needs oil, desperately.

 

[RPZ]

Sorry but a museum relic and "long term storage" for an individual with relatively new leather goods ain't the same thing.

The fact that you have not oiled your leather does not mean it does not need it. Let alone that leather never needs anything but wax. Sorry but this is just false. The fact that it's cracked around the retention strap is proof that it needs oil, desperately.

Yes, after about 1,500+ hours of intense Texas sun the holster on the nylon belt could use alittle. You make make no comment about the other holster and belt which probably has about half that in intense heat and sun, about 7 years of use and a total of a mere 18 years - no oils or conditioners used.

 

[CraigC]

Three years is not a long time for leather. Neither is seven. It will all last longer if you lightly oil it once a year. It keeps the fibers supple, which allows them to flex instead of break. Broken fibers = cracking. Wax doesn't do that, oil does. It won't make it floppy. Fact, not opinion.

PS, are you really spending all that time in the "intense Texas sun" or are you spending the majority of your day driving around in your car?

 

[RPZ]

Three years is not a long time for leather. Neither is seven. It will all last longer if you lightly oil it once a year. It keeps the fibers supple, which allows them to flex instead of break. Broken fibers = cracking. Wax doesn't do that, oil does. It won't make it floppy. Fact, not opinion.

PS, are you really spending all that time in the "intense Texas sun" or are you spending the majority of your day driving around in your car?

Actually standing outside a bank, with no shade for most of the day.

After 18 years total the other holster and belt, which have had less sun exposure are still supple, no cracking or splitting at all.

 

[CraigC]

"It will all last longer if you lightly oil it once a year."