Looking for Rossi Coach Gun (Amadeo) part **pics**.. please advise.

Status
Not open for further replies.

BlackSapphire

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Messages
11
Hello everyone... I just found this forum and there seems to be a TON of great info on here. So, this is my first post. I hope one of you can help me out. I have an old (70's era) Rossi Amadeo Coach Gun - 12ga. This gun is a double-barrel with external hammers (as most of you undoubtedly know).

I realize that this gun isn't super valuable but it holds a lot of sentimental value for me. It was my grandfather's shotgun and he died almost ten years ago (on my wedding night no less.... I digress).

The left hammer would never cock on it. So, today I removed the side panels to inspect and found the culprit. I believe this part is called the sear - please correct me if I'm wrong - I'm learning.

As you can see, the tip of it snapped off. Now there is nothing to catch the hammer when it's pulled back. I've removed the offending part and included a picture below (along with another picture showing the side that is intact for reference).

Do any of you know what I can do here? I have had zero luck in locating anything via the Internet. I realize that Rossi is out of business (the old Rossi anyway) but I am hoping to find a stash of 'used', reman or reprod parts somewhere.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Rossi-Pic1.jpg

Rossi-Pic2.jpg

Rossi-Pic4.jpg

Intact side (right):

Rossi-Pic3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks BeeGee - appreciate the referral. I sent them an email so that I could show them the pictures.

Edited first post to show 12ga. I left that off initially.
 
Last edited:
Thank you rbernie. I was thinking it might be an Overland but the pics I'd seen of them actually had "Overland" stamped on the upper barrel and mine does not. Appreciate the input sir.
 
I don't know if it will help but I didn't know the old Rossi importer went out of business and I needed some parts for an old revolver so I just called the number on their site. They informed me that they had no affiliation with my gun and gave me the number of a Gun Smith that 'specialized' in the old Rossi guns. I called them and had an OEM part shipped to me asap.

If you can't find the parts elsewhere, I could probably go back and find the name of the Smith shop I wrote the check to. I remember they had a small web site to.
 
Hey guys, am I correct in calling that part the 'sear'? I see a "Sear, Left, 12ga" on their site (which is out of stock). I'm just wondering if I'm on the right track.
 
Rossi

try Jack First605-343-9344
the Overland is gun# 737 and the left sear is P/N RST31073 view # is 63
they don't show parts on their website ya have to get their 3 catalogs(39.95)
and call it in. They begin where others leave off. and somethimes(like with old Winnie's and Remy's they ever make the parts.
Bill:what:
 
Thanks Bill. I ran into a stale mate with Numrich. They basically told me "good luck" and then I came back with a model number and my emails went ignored. I'll call Jack for sure. Much appreciated.
 
Tried calling Jack but just get a vmail box that doesn't seem to be functional. Will try back later I suppose.
 
Hey there DeepSouth...

I didn't get time to call today but I sent them an email referring them to this thread. I still have hope!!

Thanks for taking the time to find out the info for me. I REALLY appreciate it.
 
Update:

DeepSouth - no joy on M&M Gunsmithing. He says he doesn't have it (or access to it). He mentioned that there were several iterations of that gun and the one I have is the 'older style'.

triggerman770 - I can't reach Jack at the number you gave me. When you call it, it says to re-enter the number and then says that the vmail box doesn't exist. Any other means of communication for him (email, etc.)?
 
Tried calling Jack but just get a vmail box that doesn't seem to be functional. Will try back later I suppose.
Try (605) 343-9544

LINK

I'm in the same boat. I have the same coachgun, and I need a new stock. You should see this thing... it looks like it got ran over by a truck. Everything is flawless (slight patina) but the buttstock is shattered at the receiver/frame. I am fixing it for a friend, who got it from his grandpa. I told him it probably wasn't worth fixing, but (again) it hold sentimental value. This seems to be common.

PSA - OK guys, please listen up! When you buy guns, buy good ones. So that when you hand them down to kids/grandkids, they don't get stuck with a sentimental gun that's junk :D
 
Jack First

hey there deep south,sorry for the delay, Jagertroop is right. it seems dyslexia
or stoopid set in when I typed that fone # hope you got thru and got your part.
Bill
 
Your pictures are very interesting. I have a Rossi Overland as well. Your disassembled lock is somewhat different then mine. Yours looks to be an improved version...

The front (the sort of C - shaped end) of the rod that holds the spring on mine doesn't have the lower part that is sandwiched between the sideplate and the retaining plate. The front of my spring rod is cut off square on the bottom and isn't retained by the retaining plate. It is held in place by a balancing act of the angle of the spring, the bevel of the tip, and all of the involved parts aligning perfectly.

I can see why they added the lower part, it securely locks the piece in place and doesn't require precise hand fitted to work reliably.

The other difference that I see is the tip of the sear mine looks similar to the one that you have that is broken off (flat and skinny no square block on the end) although mine are the longer and function normally.

All of the parts in your lock look clearly to be cast where mine have slight sprue marks and look to have had more hand filing done on them. Yours are surely more friendly to mass production.

Okay enough of that, a solution to your problem, if you still can't find a sear. If you find someone skillfull with a tig welder have can have them graft on a similar shaped piece of steel near to the same hardness, securely welding it in place, and file to final form.

If you can find a friend that has the tools and skill, likes guns, is up for a challenge, and works for beer you can get Grandpa's gun up and running again inexpensively.
 
Hey Triggerman, I called Jack First and they didn't have any of those in stock at all. It didn't sound hopeful that they EVER would. :)

So, it looks like I'll try Triangle's suggestion and have someone add metal to the existing sear (to match the other side). I can shape it with a file of course.

Sorry for the delay in getting back with you guys. You gave me WAY more help than I got anywhere else and I appreciate it.
 
BlackSapphire: If you can file a welded on piece of metal you could probably make the part. You have a mirror image of one for an example and the trigger extention could be made, threaded and silver soldered for non flexable joint. I suspect you could make one in approx. 2 hours of work if you have the ability, if not maybe someone on this sight can help. I've rebuilt several old guns which had parts made out of unobtainium with just cold rolled steel and case hardening or gage plate and proper hardening and tempering. You didn't list your repair capibilty but if you can do the job have the satisfaction and if you have someone else do the repair you have a functioning shotgun that has sentimental value.
If you are near I'd be glad to help.
 
Last edited:
My dad repaired a part for my grandfather's old Marshwood double barrel by taking the part out (it is the part that cocks the hammers when the gun is opened) and welding on to it. Then he refiled it to a perfect fit and dressed it up. Works perfect now.
 
Goon: most OLD shotguns had forged parts which were hand fitted and forge welding fresh metal on was fairly easy. The casting parting lines seen on OP's parts mean they are castings which are sometimes problematic for welding, sometime you can sometimes you can't.
A new part can be roughed out fairly easy by chain drilling outline then filing to shape. Drill and tap correct size hole for socket head screw for trigger kicker. Then cut off head and silver solder to sear. Ream pivot hole and shape sear nose. harden and temper. That is how the original parts were made by actioners except they used a raw part forging which already had kicker tail on sear so no drilling.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top