Lube-Pills. Got to love them.

[hawg]

I remember ("back in the day") buying a can of automotive wheel bearing grease, and it was super "stringy", and of a thicker consistency compared with current wheel bearing grease.

I remember buying wheel bearing grease back in the 70's. It was gray but it wasn't stringy that I remember. I know in dusty/dirty conditions exposed grease would collect dirt and get hard.

 

[J-Bar]

If you want to shoot 6 shots and quit, you don't need lube. But in competition I had to shoot 30 shots per revolver in a 2 hour match, not any time for thorough cleaning between stages if I also took my turn at the chores of spotting, picking up brass, and running the timer. Without lube the revolver's action would start to drag after 2 or 3 stages (10-15 shots). With lube I could shoot all day, any number of stages, without drag due to fouling buildup or any loss of accuracy. And I never used anything but lube over the ball in 22 years of cowboy action black powder competition.

I have never been to the blackpowder matches at Friendship, but I will bet a donut those folks use some kind of lube.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

I remember buying wheel bearing grease back in the 70's. It was gray but it wasn't stringy that I remember. I know in dusty/dirty conditions exposed grease would collect dirt and get hard.

There used to be a type of moly grease that was kinda thin for hi pressure application like universal joints and chassis pivot points. Then there was this thick nasty grease called high fiber grease for wheel bearings. That's the stuff I've seen dry out into a hard chunk.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

There used to be a type of moly grease that was kinda thin for hi pressure application like universal joints and chassis pivot points. Then there was this thick nasty grease called high fiber grease for wheel bearings. That's the stuff I've seen dry out into a hard chunk.

And that stuff would not melt either. We used to take our rear chains off the bikes on a regular basis, (regular maintenance...what a concept) melt grease, and immerse the chains in it. (no one went to the dealer and had them put on a new chain! We was on our own back in them days!) I tried it once with the nasty stuff and it wouldn't melt!

 

[Patocazador]

I use a combination of beeswax and unsalted lard. Trouble is what's the right consistency for summer heat is hard as a rock for winter use. If I use a softer winter ratio, same thing in the summer ... it's too mushy.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I use a combination of beeswax and unsalted lard. Trouble is what's the right consistency for summer heat is hard as a rock for winter use. If I use a softer winter ratio, same thing in the summer ... it's too mushy.

Truth to that. I'm curious as to how my current mix will fare into the summer. Two mixes a possibility, summer mix and fall-winter-spring mix. Maybe a summer mix, winter mix, and spring/fall mix. We'll see!

 

[Navy Six 2]

If you want to shoot 6 shots and quit, you don't need lube. But in competition I had to shoot 30 shots per revolver in a 2 hour match, not any time for thorough cleaning between stages if I also took my turn at the chores of spotting, picking up brass, and running the timer. Without lube the revolver's action would start to drag after 2 or 3 stages (10-15 shots). With lube I could shoot all day, any number of stages, without drag due to fouling buildup or any loss of accuracy. And I never used anything but lube over the ball in 22 years of cowboy action black powder competition.

I have never been to the blackpowder matches at Friendship, but I will bet a donut those folks use some kind of lube.

That is pretty much how most of my percussion pistols are used, at a Cowboy match. Under those circumstances, some type of lube is necessary to make it through the match. Yes, I have heard of some individuals who don't use any lube at a Cowboy match, but they are few and far between and I've never been able to do it.

 

[Gator Weiss]

Cornmeal loaded on top of powder ensures powder is protected from front-ignition and it takes up the slack space when you load 25 grains. Grease is a mess. Beeswax used straight seals a chamber against rain and it can be placed around caps for the same reason and the revolver left in a flap holster. Greasing revolvers was not done in the army. When you fire one chamber, all the grease on all the chambers seams to be disturbed by the blast generally. Tight packed loads with sawdust or cornmeal or waste paper over the powder burn fairly clean and provide slightly more performance. Loose loads burn dirty. There was no grease issued by the army for packing chambers. It isnt needed. To each his own and enjoy these fine guns.

 

[Gator Weiss]

Petroleum products / made into oils and greases, tend to mix with acids produced in burned black powder and it carries the acid deep into the pores of the steel and seals it in. Carbon grit and petroleum under heat form asphalts. Use non-petroleum products in chambers and bores, as it washes out easily with hot water and mild soap. Canola oil is canadian oil low acid, from steamed pressed rapeseed and it is used in steam cylinder engines as extreme pressure lubes. On small internal parts, canola becomes too sticky over time and can interfere with mechanical movement. In the bore, it can offer protection, works great on patched ball loading. In revolvers, can work in bore and chamber coating lightly for storage. Would or have any of the revolver greasers ever try to add it to beeswax mixtures?

 

[woodnbow]

I don’t remember trying canola but I’ve used a bunch of different vege oils and they all seem to work equally well. Even tried Jojoba oil which is pretty expensive and you’d think that virtually guaranteed an outstanding product but no, it’s on a par with coconut, peanut, or olive oil. All the stuff really needs to do is widen the temperature range of the wax and grease. I do add a couple ounces of Stihl HP Synthetic two stroke oil to a pound of lube.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

I use hi temp bearing grease on the breech plug on my Ferguson. The traditional thing is a tallow mix of whatever stuff could be found around the camp. I don't get hung up on being a purist so the bearing grease is what I use. It works better than the tallow for keeping the rifle running smoothly. So far there's been no issues with corrosion or binding.