Lyman #55 issue

[Killermonkey21]

Hello All,

I have been reloading for about two months now and I have run into an issue. I reload about 500-1000 rounds a month of .45 ACP for IPSC, IDPA, and target shooting and use the following hardware.

Lyman T-Mag II
Lyman .45 ACP dies w/ Lee FCD
Lyman #55 powder measure

My usual method is "batch" loading, with resizing/depriming done all at once (5 gallon bucket full of LPP .45 brass) and priming done by hand with an RCBS hand primer (case inspection done at this time).

When I'm ready to load I just have to go through 4 presses per case.
-Bell
-Charge (measure is mounted on press)
-seat
-crimp

I do a visual check of each charge before seating, and try to use high volume powders (Red Dot, Clays) to help avoid a double charge.

Current recipe is:
200 grain Laser-cast LSWC
4.2 grains Clays (regular, not universial or international)
mixed headstamp brass
WLP
1.22 COAL

I was almost done loading about 70 rounds when all of a sudden, double charge in my case. Oh, ok, must have hit the charge bar twice. Dump the powder in the hopper, and try again...double charge...***?

The charge jumped from 4.2 grains to almost 10 grains instantly. I had not touched the slides at all in between rounds. It was almost filling the case! I reset the slide to low and it was throwing 2.2 grains reliably. I very slightly adjusted the slide and BAM 4.4 grains...hmmm...down a little bit and BAM. 5-8 grains!

Now, I did see some grains of powder "jumping" in the hopper after I turned the hopper upside down (in case the powder was bridging, flake powder but whatever), so, static maybe? I'm going to get some dryer sheets today anyhow so I'll try that, but what would make a thrower jump that far that fast? I've used it for over 1k rounds and not had this issue.

I am a little stumped right now, but am thankful I was using clays and not Bulls Eye or Zip (the Zip load data has like .5 grains between start and max).

Thanks High Roaders.

-SSG John V.

 

[rcmodel]

1. Take it apart and clean the slides, and hopper with a static-kill laundry dryer sheet.

2. Reassemble and close all three slides completely and lock the steel drum in place tightly.

(Only use the center brass slide for small charges of pistol powder.
Only use the small brass slide for very minor fine-tuning if necessary.)
The big steel slide is only used for large charges of rifle powder.

3. Once set, carefully snug up the set screws with a small pair of pliers.

4. Always use the little clicky clak hammer the same every throw.

5. Make sure to use the larger of the two powder drop tubes. The small on is for small caliber rifle loads only.

6. Don't even try to charge and seat one bullet at a time at the press.
(Sooner or later, you WILL make a mistake you don't catch and it will bite you!)

7. Use loading blocks and charge in batches of 50 or 100 at a time.
Then visually inspect powder levels in all of them before placing bullets in all of them to plug up the holes.

8. Then take the loading block to the press and seat the bullets.

It's nearly impossible to blow yourself up if you do it that way.

Personally, I have a powder handling bench on one end of the basement with scales and 3 #55 measures, and a reloading press bench on the other end of the basement.

rc

 

[rfwobbly]

Double post.

 

[rfwobbly]

► You may need to add a "baffle" to the powder hopper if your #55 doesn't have one. Drink a beer (on me), and then cut the can up following these directions.... http://www.gabma.us/shooting/Powder%20Baffle%20Instructions%20and%20Templates.pdf

► Consistent powder density is the key to consistent powder weights when measuring powder by volume. Therefore you need to add a consistent vibration to get a stable density. Although the #55 comes with a knocker, you can simply "knock" the handle against the stop at each end of the throw and get the same result. (E.g. Raise op handle knock-knock. Lower op handle knock-knock.)


Hope this helps!

 

[Certaindeaf]

Good advice above. To get some large sticks to meter very well, sometimes I'll flick the knocker up pretty hard and then just let it bounce against the the bottom if its travel.. I do this with the measure mounted. It works pretty good for me for that.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I think I read in a thread on this forum the RCBS baffle will fit in the Lyman powder measure...

 

[budman46]

killer,
i got started 40+ years ago with a #55; it works, but isn't the easiest powder measure to use...three adjustable cavities complicate it. a single-adjustment style like rcbs' duo-flo(?) is lots simpler.

i like rcbs' 'lil dandy with a fixed-rotor (simple and safe) for handguns...it's my first choice for charges up 25 grains...useful for high volume .223 rem as well. a downside is you'll eventually have $$$ invested buying each of the 26 available rotors!

 

[JerryLP]

Baffles/Powder drop tubes

rcmodel, thanks for the powder drop advice (your item 5)

ArchAngel, these are both Lyman (top) and RCBS (bottom) powder measure baffles. The Lyman is smaller than the RCBS.
jp

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

they're close enough. you can just bend the baffle in or out a little if it doesn't fit right. doesn't have to be perfect, just needs to take the weight of the powder column out of the equation.

 

[35 Whelen]

I've been using a Lyman #55 for a long, long time and have had zero problems with it. I use mine 99% for handgun loads, specifically CAS where the charges are light (2.6 grs. Clays in the wife's .38's and 4.0 gr. Red Dot in my .44 Spec.) The ONLY way I can think you can double charge is if the powder bridges in the cavity between the drum and the spout. Of course if this is the case, you not only have a double charge, but either a "not" charged or undercharged case preceeding the double charged one. There's simply no way for the Lyman #55 to measure two charges with one throw of the handle.

35W

 

[James2]

The charge jumped from 4.2 grains to almost 10 grains instantly.

One of two things. The main slide set screw was not tight and it moved, or the drop tube had some powder lodge in it and then it came down on the next round.

RC covered the use of the 55 very well.

I might add, and perhaps you won't all agree, but when I operate the 55 I start with the handle down, come up and let it hit the stop, then wait until the powder settles then cut the powder then, when in the dump position, use the knocker to ascertain the powder falls out of the drop tube. I never use the knocker in the up position. I have the found 55 to be very consistent doing this. I have not used a baffle in it either.

I always try to move the handle the same speed each cycle.

I don't care how I try, I can never seem to operate the knocker with any degree of consistency. It flops around this way and that. If you are knocking on the unit with the handle in the up or fill mode, and it is not consistent, you will get variable weight drops.

Using a loading board and making the visual check before adding bullets is the key to safety. I may add that you should move all other brass out of reach when seating bullets. Too easy to grab one that is not charged and put a bullet on it if you have any within reach.

Make sure to tighten the locking screws and work on your technique, and I think you can throw some consistent loads with the 55.

 

[GP100man]

I have a peice of a fluffy sock I cover with powdered graphite ,put it in the measure & shake it around a bit to cover it all in graphite , even work some into the slides , it`ll work wonders !!

Keep the rag in a ziploc for later use as todays powder don`t seem to have near the graphite on em as they used to .