M1 carbine handguard looseness

[Ratzinger_p38]

Hey all, I have a m1 carbine with the type II barrel band, and for the life of me, I cannot get the thing to lock up tight around the handguard. It quite annoyingly rocks back and forth on the barrel, rattling with every move. I understand there is supposed to be some play with the handguard, but not as much as I have. When I had a type III band on it, it did not rock much at all.

Anyone else have this problem and found a solution?

 

[lemaymiami]

Yes, there's several fixes for that problem... If no one here chimes in go to these three sites for all the carbine info in the world...
http://m1carbineforum.forumco.com/
https://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=110
http://forums.thecmp.org/forumdisplay.php?f=6

 

[WelshShooter]

Where does the wood feel loose, under the rear retaining lip, under the front barrel band or both? You may be able to use a thin wood/Cork shim to take up the space in these gaps.

 

[Ratzinger_p38]

I'd say it feels loose under the front barrel band. Considered replacing it (the handguard) completely and getting one with a thicker lip but I wanted to troubleshoot it totally before I start spending more money on it.

I should mention - the band I am using is a 'fake' type 2 - it is a cutdown Inland type III, and I thought maybe it isn't seating right because of it. Real type 2s have a slight recess in the inner band, with most cut downs are flush. But of course real ones are also expensive and rare.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Your problem may lie all the way back at the recoil plate. A properly fitted plate will cause the action to "float" just above the stock inlet. This is then tensioned down by the upper band and handguard when tightened.

 

[carbine85]

Your problem may lie all the way back at the recoil plate. A properly fitted plate will cause the action to "float" just above the stock inlet. This is then tensioned down by the upper band and handguard when tightened.

This is correct. The rear lug should be fitted low enough so that the barreled receiver applies pressure and the barrel floats above the stock.

 

[Ratzinger_p38]

I'll have to post some pics in the next day or two so you guys can tell me what you think of the fit.

After taking the recoil plate off, it is definitely not flush with the bottom of the receiver like it should be. I put this plate in this stock well over 10 years ago and at the time did not realize the proper fit.

 

[Ratzinger_p38]

Now I've done it - I followed the advice given in a couple of old threads and filed down the inside portion of my recoil plate, but I think I went too far as now there is no tension when the receiver is inserted into the stock. It just lays flat on the wood.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Now I've done it - I followed the advice given in a couple of old threads and filed down the inside portion of my recoil plate, but I think I went too far as now there is no tension when the receiver is inserted into the stock. It just lays flat on the wood.

Recoil plates are still pretty cheap and plentiful. Try SARCO, DuPage Trading, or Amherst Depot for a GI one. Worst case, you can get a new one from Auto Ordnance, Fulton Armory, or Inland Manufacturing.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

1990 I bought a 1943 IBM made M1 Carbine reimported from South Korea with all the post-WWII upgrades. Apparently the person for whom the dealer had ordered the gun did not consider it collectable* so I got it for a fair price. Over the years I acquired a Ramline synthetic sporter stock and an Italian repro of an M1A1 folder stock. I have shot it a lot participating in local military rifle matches over past two decades.

I got a repro of the US Army/USAF Tech Manual on Carbines M1, M1A1, M2, and M3 from the local GI Joe's Army/Navy Surplus store. Following the tech manual on the proper fit of the recoil plate to receiver for proper tension takes patience but is rewarding. I also followed their instructions on disassembly, inspection of parts for fit and wear, and reassembly of the M1A1 folder and made it tighter and less likely to fold unintentionally.

The CMP also has instructions on-line for fitting the recoil plate and the handguard for proper tension. That can improve accuracy. The handguard, though, should move a little, should not bind too tightly, but should not rattle either.

The rear of the handguard fits the receiver via a metal plate held in the handguard by rivets. Are the rivets loose?
The wooden lip at the front of the handguard fits into the flange of the barrel. Has the wood been worn or compressed?


___________________
*Mix-master correct for Korean War/VietNam era (stamped and brazed trigger housing typical of IBM made M1 Carbines, parkerized postwar refinish, flip safety, 3-tab 30-rd mag catch, adjustable sights w. stamped base, and oversized M2 stock which I now suspect was by Howa of Japan for US occupation forces since it had a very rough non reflective finish). I first considered it (a) a collectible for 1950-1960s and (b) a varmint gun for up to 100yd.