Reloadron
Contributing Member
While reading this thread I got to looking at Post #20 by member cfullgraf where he mentions:
Every now and then we have new M1 Garand owners turn up, be it a Garand from The CMP or other source. Even if a CMP Garand arrives squeaky clean it doesn't hurt to totally field strip the rifle, inspect the parts and become more familiar with the rifle.
There were many specialty tools made for working on the M1 Garand at the armory level but many are hard to find or quite expensive unless you plan to work on dozens of these rifles. Moving along to the M1 Garand Bolt Assembly and the disassembly of the bolt.
The below image is a standard M1 Garand bolt assembly.
To disassemble the bolt I use a 6" C clamp, a drift punch, available from any hardware store and a 30-06 or 308 case cut down to a length between 1/2" and 1". The below image shows the bolt and tools to be used.
How I suggest going about this is merely a suggestion. I have stripped many bolts using no more than a 30-06 case and a punch but unless you have three hands the C clamp makes life easier. Especially for someone doing their first bolt.
We want to fit the cut down cartridge into the bolt starting with slipping the case head under the extractor. While holding it begin to draw down on the C clamp working on a flat surface. Pretty much as shown in the below image.
Eventually slowly tightening the C clamp we should have what looks like the below image.
Next, using the drift punch begin gently pressing down on the extractor retaining pin portion. Generally a hammer is not required. Maybe a light tap for a difficult pin.
Now while grasping the bolt face gently begin to relieve the tension on the C clamp. Gently and slowly as with the extractor now removed the ejector spring will be pushing. You don't want the ejector launched by ejector spring pressure. They are not fun to play hide and seek with as they hide well.
Finally we should have a stripped bolt, you may need to use a pin or fingernail to remove the extractor spring.
Thoroughly inspect the parts after washing them down in cleaning solvent. I like to use a small tooth brush and 6" cotton applicator (Q-tip) swabs. Clean the bolt body well washing out the firing pin channel. Make sure any old grease and or cosomoline is removed. Once my parts are completely clean I like to wash things down using isopropanol alcohol to remove any solvent residue. Then a light coat of oil on the parts. A small dab of good grease on the springs.
I noticed something on this bolt that can be seen below and in the above image if you look carefully.
When springs are clean always look for shiny flat spots on the spring coils. This spring has a few flat spots that are starting to wear thin. The coils should be round with no flat spots.
The same holds true for the operating rod spring and trigger spring inside the trigger housing.
To reassemble the bolt just reverse the disassemble process. Make sure the oval cut in the ejector is aligned with the hole so the extractor can be snapped back in once the bolt is compressed in the C clamp.
It's not unusual to find gunk and rust on the springs. I hope this might help some new Garand owners who may have been curious as how to disassemble the bolt.
Ron
Every now and then we have new M1 Garand owners turn up, be it a Garand from The CMP or other source. Even if a CMP Garand arrives squeaky clean it doesn't hurt to totally field strip the rifle, inspect the parts and become more familiar with the rifle.
There were many specialty tools made for working on the M1 Garand at the armory level but many are hard to find or quite expensive unless you plan to work on dozens of these rifles. Moving along to the M1 Garand Bolt Assembly and the disassembly of the bolt.
The below image is a standard M1 Garand bolt assembly.
To disassemble the bolt I use a 6" C clamp, a drift punch, available from any hardware store and a 30-06 or 308 case cut down to a length between 1/2" and 1". The below image shows the bolt and tools to be used.
How I suggest going about this is merely a suggestion. I have stripped many bolts using no more than a 30-06 case and a punch but unless you have three hands the C clamp makes life easier. Especially for someone doing their first bolt.
We want to fit the cut down cartridge into the bolt starting with slipping the case head under the extractor. While holding it begin to draw down on the C clamp working on a flat surface. Pretty much as shown in the below image.
Eventually slowly tightening the C clamp we should have what looks like the below image.
Next, using the drift punch begin gently pressing down on the extractor retaining pin portion. Generally a hammer is not required. Maybe a light tap for a difficult pin.
Now while grasping the bolt face gently begin to relieve the tension on the C clamp. Gently and slowly as with the extractor now removed the ejector spring will be pushing. You don't want the ejector launched by ejector spring pressure. They are not fun to play hide and seek with as they hide well.
Finally we should have a stripped bolt, you may need to use a pin or fingernail to remove the extractor spring.
Thoroughly inspect the parts after washing them down in cleaning solvent. I like to use a small tooth brush and 6" cotton applicator (Q-tip) swabs. Clean the bolt body well washing out the firing pin channel. Make sure any old grease and or cosomoline is removed. Once my parts are completely clean I like to wash things down using isopropanol alcohol to remove any solvent residue. Then a light coat of oil on the parts. A small dab of good grease on the springs.
I noticed something on this bolt that can be seen below and in the above image if you look carefully.
When springs are clean always look for shiny flat spots on the spring coils. This spring has a few flat spots that are starting to wear thin. The coils should be round with no flat spots.
The same holds true for the operating rod spring and trigger spring inside the trigger housing.
To reassemble the bolt just reverse the disassemble process. Make sure the oval cut in the ejector is aligned with the hole so the extractor can be snapped back in once the bolt is compressed in the C clamp.
It's not unusual to find gunk and rust on the springs. I hope this might help some new Garand owners who may have been curious as how to disassemble the bolt.
Ron
