M1 Garand Gas Cylinder Question

[lencac]

Hi Guys:
I just purchased an M1 Garand. It's an H&R and appears to be all correct and original. Late 1954 or 1955 production with a H&R barrel date of 12-54. The barrel looks to be as new. It has some spectacular wood. I'll post some photos later.
However, I has one thing I'm not liking. And that is the gas cylinder fits a little bit loose on the splines on the barrel which means the front sight has some back and forth movement. This obviously will cause issues with accuracy.
So here's my question: Do I need to replace the gas cylinder to correct this?
Your thoughts would be very much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Reloadron]

You want to peen it. A Google will bring up a dozen hits on how this relatively easy process is done.

peen M1 Garand barrel splines

What you are seeing is pretty common.

Ron

 

[lencac]

Hi Reloadron:
Thanks for your input. I was considering that option. And after reading some stuff from your link I suppose there is no guaranty that even a new gas cylinder will be tight.
To be totally honest it inherently rubs me the wrong way to beat on an otherwise new barrel. But I suppose that is still an option. But I am trying to think a ways to perhaps peen the splines on the inside of the gas cylinder or even figuring out a way to make it a bit of an interference fit with some very tiny slivers of brass shim stock.
If you are interested I'll post what I come up with.
Thanks for your help

 

[cfullgraf]

Reloaderron is spot on on peening the splines if necessary. But you do not want the gas cylinder tight when installed on a cold rifle. A little fore/aft movement allows for expansion when the rifle gets hot.

In other words, do not hog down on the gas cylinder lock to make the gas cylinder tight.

 

[Reloadron]

To be totally honest it inherently rubs me the wrong way to beat on an otherwise new barrel. But I suppose that is still an option. But I am trying to think a ways to perhaps peen the splines on the inside of the gas cylinder or even figuring out a way to make it a bit of an interference fit with some very tiny slivers of brass shim stock.

Just something about hitting a barrel with a hammer huh?

Shimstock can be used but the general method is to peen the barrel. I also suggest that you do not try to alter the gas tube itself. I believe the M1 Garand gas tube uses a stainless steel alloy and it would be unwise to try and peen or alter it in any way.

Heed what cfullgraf mentions:

In other words, do not hog down on the gas cylinder lock to make the gas cylinder tight.

The CMP website is a great source of information as well as tips and tricks for maintaining the M1 Garand, even they cover peening the barrel. However, your decision. By all means post back and let us know how things work out and what road (other than the high road) you take.

Ron

 

[lencac]

I'm in the car with y'all. I've always understood that the front handguard should have some fore and aft play for expansion as well as accuracy. So the cylinder cannot be tight against the front of the handguard.

Just something about hitting a barrel with a hammer huh?

Exactly, but that does seem to be the excepted method to remedy the condition.
But I am going to look into slivers of brass shim stock as I have stock ranging from .001 to .005 in. available to me.
But I want to run some rounds through it this weekend so I'll do something one way or another

 

[Reloadron]

Absolutely, see how the rifle functions as it is. I wasn't aware that you had not fired the rifle yet. There is a good possibility that the rifle will do just fine and you will develop an addiction to shooting it and enjoying it.

Ron

 

[Orlando]

OK, theres some off base info here, a new gas cylinder on a new barrel would need to be driven on with a hammer and a block of wood. If you watch old films were gas cylinders were installed when manufacture, they were installed with a press. There should be ZERO fore and aft or rotational movement
A new gas cylinder will not help the OP's issue as its the barrel splines that wear not the gas cylinder. You peen the barrel splines for a tight fit
Peening the splines is actually a arsenal fix, you dont beat on the barrel, you tap on the edge of the spline
With gas cylinder movement your front sight will move which is detrimental to accuracy

 

[Onmilo]

I was taught to use a 3/8" brass punch to peen splines on M1 and M14 barrels.
You move the punch all the way down the spline tapping with moderate impact and do only one side of each spline always tapping the same side of the spline as the one before.

As for M1 handguard, the BEST way to mount the handguard for optimum accuracy is to remove the heatguard then epoxy the front cap to the handguard wood, clearance ream the barrel hole in the cap, epoxy the rear of the handguard to the operating rod guide and try to never touch the assembly again.

 

[lencac]

Well, I peened the barrel. Just one side of each spline and all seems fine. Tight as a bug in a rug. No worse for wear.
So it's time to yank the trigger
Thanks for the help guys