M1D 2 round burst

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tanker26

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Hey guys..been a member of this forum but haven't posted anything until now. I just purchased an early M1 (1942) that has an M1D barrel and scope with flash hider. Thought I would give it a run so loaded this baby up and it fired two quick rounds as if it was on full auto. The only reason it didn't empty the clip was because it failed to chamber the third round. After seating another round, same thing, two rd. burst. I'm thinking that it may not have chambered the third rd. was because the recoil caught me off guard and the weapon wasn't secure against my shoulder. Maybe the sear is worn not sure. Any thoughts to this situation you may have run across before. Thanks Tom
 
Assuming the firing pin is not stuck forward, and also assuming you didn't inadvertently fire the second shot (yes, it sometimes happens), the most likely cause would be hammer or sear surfaces that have been worn or tampered with to "do a trigger job." Fortunately, those parts are still available at reasonable cost. Try Gun Parts Corp. or Bill Ricca.

Jim
 
What Jim suggest. Worn sear or hammer or even weak sear spring.
 
Thanks for the suggestions..going to give it another try tomorrow before returning it to dealer..
 
Don't do that!

If it is firing out of battery due to a broken firing pin it could blow up in your face.

Take the bolt out, check the firing pin to see if it is broke or stuck.
( Stuck shouldn't be able to happen if the L-leg on the back isn't broke off.)

Then flush, clean, and re-lube the trigger assembly.

Then, test it throughly by holding the trigger back and dropping the bolt on an empty chamber.

If the hammer follows, you have a sear, hammer, or disconnector wear problem.

But, DO NOT shoot it again until the problem is corrected.
You could shoot your eye out!!!!

rc
 
Quick checks to rule out simple fixes:
- make sure there is no grease on the trigger, sear or hammer hooks - only light machine oil, and not dripping wet;
- if you're firing off a bench, make sure you are holding the rifle firmly, and not letting your finger "bounce" off the trigger during recoil, firing another round.

This is advice from the CMP armorers for doubles, before you get into mechanical issues. Swapping out the hammer, trigger and sear aren't a problem if it is necessary, like Jim K mentions.
 
Aside from the information provided the attached links to PDF files might be of some help to you. The files are from The US .30 Caliber Gas Operated Service Rifles A Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen.

Link Number 1

Link Number 2

The links contain some good illustrations which should give you a few things to look at. The problem you are experiencing could have several causes as was mentioned. If we rule out a stuck firing pin and the shooter there are still several possible causes for uncontrolled fire. Each link should take about 15 seconds to download and open in Acrobat Reader as a PDF file. Link #2 is likely more applicable.

Hope this helps....
Ron
 
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- if you're firing off a bench, make sure you are holding the rifle firmly, and not letting your finger "bounce" off the trigger during recoil, firing another round.
Click to expand...

Very important advice. Hunkered down over a bench in search of the magic MOA with service rifles is a great opportunity to "milk" the trigger and get a double even if the trigger pull is in spec near the lower limit. I had a "tuned" Mini 14 that would double that way, I had to concentrate on pulling the trigger through.
A club member asked me to help him sight in his old Stevens .22 auto. I was trying to get the most out of it and was milking the trigger so delicately that it would sometimes run full auto til it was empty or jammed.
Neither rifle would double from standing or even prone. The Stevens would not double for its owner under any condition he could put it to.
 
This is covered in one of the TM/FM's. I forget which one, naturally. It's also mentioned in the Trouble shooting chapter in Hatcher's Book of the Garand.
 
References to books are all very well, but I like to provide as much help as possible here. Generally, if the OP has the books, he would not be asking us for assistance, he would consult the books.

I do often recommend books, because no one here can possibly provide all the information that is in a service manual or a good book, but on the other hand, we work cheap.

Jim
 
Here is a simple che k of the trigger assembly:
Remove trigger assembly from rifle
Cock hammer
set safety, pull trigger. Hammer should not fall
Release safety, pull trigger (with other hand catch the hammer so it doesnt contact the trigger housing) dont release the trigger keep it pulled to the rear.
With other hand cock the hammer, with the trigger still pulled to the rear it should catch and hold.
If hammer falls either the hammer hooks or sear is worn
If hammer holds your trigger assembly is fine and you are probably milking the trigger
 
RCModel...didn't retry firing the M1..took the trigger group out and saw that the sear seems to be worn enough to let the hammer continue to fall with trigger pulled back. I appreciate all the information you guys left on this subject. You are a wealth of knowledge on this forum. Thanks again for the assistance....Tom
 
I'd suspect that there's a little wear in the group.

I had a Winchester M1 several years ago that I could...with a very slow, careful squeeze...get to bump fire doubles almost on demand.

I replaced the hammer and it never did it again.
 
tanker26 said:
RCModel...didn't retry firing the M1..took the trigger group out and saw that the sear seems to be worn enough to let the hammer continue to fall with trigger pulled back. I appreciate all the information you guys left on this subject. You are a wealth of knowledge on this forum. Thanks again for the assistance....Tom
Click to expand...
While the sear is a good candidate I would certainly make sure you try the steps Orlando suggested. Worn or modified hammer lugs can also be the problem. That Link #2 I provided covers well what Orlando suggested along with some good images. As 1911 Turner points out, in his case the hammer lugs were beginning to wear.

Since this rifle is new to you someone could have well been messing with the trigger group so I would be looking at everything in great detail.

Ron
 
Orlando said:
Reloadron,
I didnt seethe link you posted. It explains it alot clearer than me.
Heres a short video through together to maybe explain it even better. The image quality isnt very good but should be able to get the jest of it
http://vid47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/Garandlover/misc/MOV06864_zps8749d9d0.mp4
Click to expand...
Orlando, that was a slick video. I thought the image quality was good, the image is small but real good. Easy to follow and gets it done. I agree there can be much more to it than the sear. While not as into the M1 rifle as I once was I have seen some strange things done to hammer lugs by people. Likely more trigger group failures due to people than normal wear.

Ron
 
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