Preacherman
Member
OK, folks, here it is... view full size for clarity.
Making a ....MATCH....shooter.
- Thread starter Topgun
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BHPshooter
Member
Woohoo! 
Wes
Wes
sm
member
I'm getting really good accuracy using Diamond Strike Anywhere Large Kitchen Matches.[ ahem, I have the new blue box packaging] I get the 3 box "pack" at my FLHS ( friendly local hardware store).
Popcorn Kernals work better than peas, they have better range and accuracy.
Umm what forum do the Diamond vs Fire Chief matches debate belong in?
Peas vs Kernal?
Matches getting MOB at 5 yds, Kernals MOB at 7 ( minute of bucket).
Have more testing to do...Hey mom...guess what I gonna drag over next?...
I didn't grow up...I just got bigger...
Being 'ponsible tho...
Topgun
member
Ahhhh, zahchopper
you show much wisdom. You have found honorable secret WILDCAT that all 4th degree matchshooters achieve in very short time.
you show much wisdom. You have found honorable secret WILDCAT that all 4th degree matchshooters achieve in very short time.
Topgun
member
I don't suppose
that anyone has thought of reversed sewing needle-Q-tip darts in a soda straw blowgun.
that anyone has thought of reversed sewing needle-Q-tip darts in a soda straw blowgun.
Snapping off most of the matchstick was my first thought and was the first thing I tried.
I found a few potential pitfalls with attempting to shoot just a match head.
1. lower mass.
a. lessens impact on the tip from the striker end of the spring, as you have less inerta from just the match head. It results in lowered ignition reliablity.
b. lessens the abilty to overcome wind resistance. Flight seems not much better than an entire matchstick.
c. initial higer launch velocity which seems to blow out the igniting match head more often than an entire matchstick which flies slower.
2. loading difficulties
a. The full match is easy to load. The long stick gives you precise control of the positioning of the match head at the "pinch point".
b. Just a matchead has to be dropped into place down the "bore".
I wil have to do more experimentation with a tape measure and a rest to see exactly how much of the matchstick I can remove to improve the ballistics, without upping velocity too much so I suffer "blow out", but still retain the loading and handling characteristics of at least some of the protrucing matchstick.
Other observations:
Position the tip of the matchead 1/16" to 1/8" away from the edge of the "sear". It allows the tip of the spring arm to accelerate before it strikes the match tip. Just like what you don't want to do with a rifle buttstock to minimize recoil. When you hold the butt 1" from your shoulder it "punches" you, but when you hold the butt tight in the pocket, it only "shoves" you. You want the spring to "punch" the match tip. This increases ignition reliablility.
I also find that if you align the axis of the matchstick opposite of that in the diagram, you also get more reliable ignition. Instead of level with the bottom half of the clothespin, angle the matchstick upward and the white priming tip will angle downward for more contact with the striker spring.
And finally, when rummaging through the "ammo box", pick the matches with the biggest white tip.
I found a few potential pitfalls with attempting to shoot just a match head.
1. lower mass.
a. lessens impact on the tip from the striker end of the spring, as you have less inerta from just the match head. It results in lowered ignition reliablity.
b. lessens the abilty to overcome wind resistance. Flight seems not much better than an entire matchstick.
c. initial higer launch velocity which seems to blow out the igniting match head more often than an entire matchstick which flies slower.
2. loading difficulties
a. The full match is easy to load. The long stick gives you precise control of the positioning of the match head at the "pinch point".
b. Just a matchead has to be dropped into place down the "bore".
I wil have to do more experimentation with a tape measure and a rest to see exactly how much of the matchstick I can remove to improve the ballistics, without upping velocity too much so I suffer "blow out", but still retain the loading and handling characteristics of at least some of the protrucing matchstick.
Other observations:
Position the tip of the matchead 1/16" to 1/8" away from the edge of the "sear". It allows the tip of the spring arm to accelerate before it strikes the match tip. Just like what you don't want to do with a rifle buttstock to minimize recoil. When you hold the butt 1" from your shoulder it "punches" you, but when you hold the butt tight in the pocket, it only "shoves" you. You want the spring to "punch" the match tip. This increases ignition reliablility.
I also find that if you align the axis of the matchstick opposite of that in the diagram, you also get more reliable ignition. Instead of level with the bottom half of the clothespin, angle the matchstick upward and the white priming tip will angle downward for more contact with the striker spring.
And finally, when rummaging through the "ammo box", pick the matches with the biggest white tip.
sm
member
+P
Two matches, the second match head a tad behind first, glue,and walla.... +P loads .
[ ok so it's a double charge...I don't care]
+P+
Repeat the above double charge, glue a straight pin,actually, small sewing needle works better. Sticks,
++PP++
Styrofoam from a cup mixed with acetone, applied to matchsticks in above...stick and burn baby, stick and burn.
Disclaimer: use at your risk, practice safety at all times.
I can see a "safe" [ahem] method of getting powder lit from a distance.
(Superglue Gel [tm] , Elmers [tm], both work, the Gel is faster in "reloading" time)
Two matches, the second match head a tad behind first, glue,and walla.... +P loads .
[ ok so it's a double charge...I don't care]
+P+
Repeat the above double charge, glue a straight pin,actually, small sewing needle works better. Sticks,
++PP++
Styrofoam from a cup mixed with acetone, applied to matchsticks in above...stick and burn baby, stick and burn.
Disclaimer: use at your risk, practice safety at all times.
I can see a "safe" [ahem] method of getting powder lit from a distance.
(Superglue Gel [tm] , Elmers [tm], both work, the Gel is faster in "reloading" time)
Topgun
member
I had never thought of it before...but...
Turning them over and gluing TWO on a board would make a fine DOUBLE for African safaris.
Turning them over and gluing TWO on a board would make a fine DOUBLE for African safaris.
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