I've been playing with snakeshot loads for my 44 mag Redhawk and am thinking about ways to get more shot per shot. Is there a rimmed rifle cartridge (30/30?) that can be trimmed down and resized to the 44's max COL to use in this application? I've been loading with a light charge of a fast powder (WST), cardstock "wad", fill to the mouth with #9 birdshot and a gascheck crimped on top to keep everything together.
Making X-Long 44 Mag brass?
- Thread starter larryw
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Paul "Fitz" Jones
Moderator - Emeritus
.44mag shot load
Just a thought that I wonder if .410 shotgun wads or used tubes from .410 shot shell casings could be used to hold shot in a 44 special or magnum casing depending in crimping and recoil involved.
I have regularly carried shot loads in my pistols for rattlesnakes on my family ranch walks but only in 38's.
It would be nice to hear what you settle on.
Fitz
Just a thought that I wonder if .410 shotgun wads or used tubes from .410 shot shell casings could be used to hold shot in a 44 special or magnum casing depending in crimping and recoil involved.
I have regularly carried shot loads in my pistols for rattlesnakes on my family ranch walks but only in 38's.
It would be nice to hear what you settle on.
Fitz
JuniorG
Member
Try 303 british
41mag
Member
What about .444 Marlin?
Jim Watson
Member
I have read of making cylinder length .44 shotshells out of .30-40 Krag brass. .303 British is close enough that JuniorGs suggestion might work, too.
Either way, you will likely have to reduce the rifle rim in both diameter and thickness so they will chamber and let the cylinder rotate. It can be done with a file and drill chuck if you don't have a lathe.
.444 Marlin head diameter is probably too large, it is a slightly tapered case, not just a lengthened .44 Magnum.
Either way, you will likely have to reduce the rifle rim in both diameter and thickness so they will chamber and let the cylinder rotate. It can be done with a file and drill chuck if you don't have a lathe.
.444 Marlin head diameter is probably too large, it is a slightly tapered case, not just a lengthened .44 Magnum.
Great stuff. I have a friend who shoots both 303 Brit and 30-40 Krag, so I'll grab some brass from him and see what I can come up with. Another friend has a small lathe/mill combo in his home workshop and seems to be looking for ways to justify the expense. 
Paul, the 410 is just a tad too big; it would be ideal for 45 Colt. The new CZ-made M6 survival rifle has a cylinder bore barrel that will take both 410 and 45LC.
thanks,
LW
Paul, the 410 is just a tad too big; it would be ideal for 45 Colt. The new CZ-made M6 survival rifle has a cylinder bore barrel that will take both 410 and 45LC.
thanks,
LW
JuniorG
Member
Jeez, I was thinking back when I had a 445SM for my Contender I had read that the 303 brit would work to make brass (or, perhaps it was the 30-40 Krag mentioned)
Either way it just slapped me in the head. How about trying some 445 SM brass?
Either way it just slapped me in the head. How about trying some 445 SM brass?
dodgestdshift
Member
You might try the Speer shot containers for your 44 Magnum. I use them for the 45 Colt, and they extend past the end of the case. This would eliminate the need to screw around with the case.
Whoops, how did that happen? 
Moderator Insert: I think the sear broke on your "Send" key and it went full-auto on you.
I removed the extra copies.
Johnny
Ah, so that's what happens when us garage gunsmiths go wild with a Dremel...
Moderator Insert: I think the sear broke on your "Send" key and it went full-auto on you.
I removed the extra copies.
Johnny
Ah, so that's what happens when us garage gunsmiths go wild with a Dremel...
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Several years ago I put several loads together using 30/40 Krag brass. I was really amazed at the density of the pattern. I don't remember the powder charge, but it was a very mild charge, I used thin styrofoam for a wad, like you would get from a package of meat, filled with #9 shot and held the shot in with silicone. I tried other ways of holding the shot in, but they would let loose under recoil.
I am out of town right now, but if you want more info, I will try to post it when I get back home next week.
You can trim the 30/40 Krag brass the length of your revolver cylinder one time without sizing because of its factory taper. After one firing the brass will fireform to the form of the cylinder, which now leaves a shoulder. This may, or may not be reloadable as is, it depends on the pistol cylinder and if you can chamber the fired brass again with out neck sizing. Again, I am out of town and don't remember for sure, but I think I used a .41 mag sizer to neck size the brass. You have to use a larger depriming die to deprime, such as a 45/70 to get the primer out. When neck resizing, make sure you do not move the new shoulder back. If you do, the next time you fire the brass, the shoulder will move forward, pushing the brass reward and lock up your cylinder. To cut the styrofoam, I took a .44 brass, sharpend the mouth and used it like a cookie cutter to cut the wads.
I did the same for .38 Special using .357 Maximum brass, but had to neck size first with a 9mm sizing die to let the Maximum brass fit in the .38 special cylinder.
If you want anymore info, I will try to get it too you next week.
Edited to add, this info and the 30/40 Krag brass was used in a .44 mag.
I am out of town right now, but if you want more info, I will try to post it when I get back home next week.
You can trim the 30/40 Krag brass the length of your revolver cylinder one time without sizing because of its factory taper. After one firing the brass will fireform to the form of the cylinder, which now leaves a shoulder. This may, or may not be reloadable as is, it depends on the pistol cylinder and if you can chamber the fired brass again with out neck sizing. Again, I am out of town and don't remember for sure, but I think I used a .41 mag sizer to neck size the brass. You have to use a larger depriming die to deprime, such as a 45/70 to get the primer out. When neck resizing, make sure you do not move the new shoulder back. If you do, the next time you fire the brass, the shoulder will move forward, pushing the brass reward and lock up your cylinder. To cut the styrofoam, I took a .44 brass, sharpend the mouth and used it like a cookie cutter to cut the wads.
I did the same for .38 Special using .357 Maximum brass, but had to neck size first with a 9mm sizing die to let the Maximum brass fit in the .38 special cylinder.
If you want anymore info, I will try to get it too you next week.
Edited to add, this info and the 30/40 Krag brass was used in a .44 mag.
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dodgestdshift
Member
Larryw:
Not only did you get 4 postings, I also got 4 e-mail notifications. They must have had a problem, since I have never received 2 notifications from the same thread unless I had gotten on and read the thread.
Not only did you get 4 postings, I also got 4 e-mail notifications. They must have had a problem, since I have never received 2 notifications from the same thread unless I had gotten on and read the thread.
45crittergitter
Member
I used .303 British to make .445 Supermag brass. Now you can buy the Supermag brass (HINT). However, if the brass is longer than standard, the longer portion will have to neck down to fit in the bullet area of your chambers, which are smaller diameter to fit the bullets, instead of larger to fit the case. How will you deal with the resulting mini-shoulder in your brass, and what caliber capsules/gas checks, etc. would you use? They will be in between .41 and .44 standard sizes.
45crittergitter
Member
Urgh.... what a mess. Wanna buy a SuperMag?
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