Mauser Trigger work

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mookiie

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For any who have done trigger work on a Mauser rifle, how low do you like to get the trigger to break at? i like around 3.5 pounds, any reason it should be lighter or heavier or is that more personal preference over function? Also do you ever try and lighten the cocking spring or do you tend to leave it alone? I usually do not touch it. Any tips would be great!

thanks.
 
If you want a better trigger in a military Mauser,replace the issue trigger with a Timney or Bold adjustable unit for $40-$100. I use bold triggers on all of mine set at just a hair over 2 lbs.
 
Smooth is way more important then weight.
I polish all the engagement surfaces, including the double-hump bump on the two-stage trigger, and whatever the weight is, is the weight.

If you get too light with too little sear engagement on a stock Mauser trigger, bolt sleeve wobble can & will make a very unsafe gun.

And I second the aftermarket trigger if you gotta have it light.

rc
 
I second what rc said... I seem to do that quite a bit...

Smooth first, light later. It is really hard to achieve a good trigger squeeze (or press, or pull, or whatever you want to call it) if your trigger is gritty like the military triggers are, but it is possible to achieve a good trigger squeeze with a heavy trigger.

Go with an aftermarket trigger if you really need a light pull, as everyone already said.
 
RC
What Do you mean by bolt slave wobble in the below quote?

If you get too light with too little sear engagement on a stock Mauser trigger, bolt sleeve wobble can & will make a very unsafe gun.

Are you referencing poor sear engagement?

Thanks!
 
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Also when you polish the trigger surfaces do you also polish none contact surfaces like the sides of the trigger, or would this have no real effect?
 
Not bolt slave.
Bolt sleeve.
The bolt sleeve is the part that doesn't rotate when the rest of the bolt opens to cock the firing pin.

They never fit the bolt tight with no play, by design, and can often be pried or jarred up enough for the cocking piece to slip off of the sear if you cut the the sear or striker surfaces down enough to achieve a light crisp trigger pull.

The only safe way to get a light crisp 3 - 3 1/2 pound pull is to replace the military two-stage trigger with a aftermarket trigger that has the actual sear engagement surfaces separate from the cocking piece & bolt sleeve.

The striker & bolt sleeve never moves until the sear inside the trigger housing releases it.

rc
 
RC thanks I believe you are correct. I played with it and it was too light, so I put a 5 1/2 - 6 pound pull spring, but as was suggested polished the trigger/contact points with the receiver and it is now very crisp. Thanks for the input!
 
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