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Mica on Alox coated bullets

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NoAlibi

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Jun 22, 2009
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I read all reviews about coating cast bullets with Alox on MidwayUSA.com and the great majority of them were positive.

There were, however, many reports that even after the Alox dried the bullets remained tacky. A few of the reviewers advised that they solved the problem by putting mica or talcum powder on the tacky surface.

Does anyone see a problem with the mica or talcum powder causing any damage to the barrel or reducing accuracy?
 
Graphite is abrasive. I don't know if I would go that route.

That said, I have shot a lot of bullets lubed with Liquid Alox, and never found it to be a real big issue. I did prefer either Rooster Jacket or conventional lubing though.
 
I guess I don't understand why people complain about the tackiness of alox based lubes. The only reason I can think of is; if you carry ammo around in your pocket, or loose in a glove box or other container. Then, you'd be picking up dirt and grit.

In a shell box like MTM caseguard or other shell boxes, they are protected until you load/shoot them.

As for talc, that could be considered abrasive. The motor mica would cover that tacky surface, it's a fine powder that is very slippery. Some day I'll try it,,, even though I'm not bothered by the tackiness of the LLA.
 
I once got along with a gun, a bunch of the old Harvey Protex-Bore bullets which depended on a zinc washer base to scrape out the fouling. Which does not work so great if the washer diameter is not right for your barrel. I lubed a lot of them with Kal-Gard moly coat which worked fine, and Corbin Dip-Lube was ok. When I ran out of those but had some of the bullets left, I got Lee Liquid Alox because it was cheaper than the others. Sticky, sticky, sticky. I coated them with Motor Mica and it reduced the stickyness enough to shoot them up.
 
It seems to me that using graphite would be trading tacky for dirty - not a good trade IMO.

I've used mica for lubing inside case necks prior to sizing rifle cases and never gave it a second thought until now. Will the mica embed in the softer lead and cause wear on the lands and grooves as it goes down the barrel at 1000 fps?
 
Dry heat- Place bullets in a preheated oven at 100* this seems to help.
Liquid Alox application

Best results in applying liquid alox are when the alox is heated before applying, or thinned with paint thinner. This makes it flow more easily, and results in a more even coat. One technique is to boil water and pour it into a coffee mug, and then drop the bottle of liquid alox into the mug for about five minutes.

Place your freshly cast bullets into something about the size of a Cool Whip bowl and drop a few drops of liquid Alox on the bullets. Mix the bullets around until they are all coated. Lay the freshly coated bullets on some wax paper to dry. Liquid alox will usually dry enough overnight to reload the next day, depending upon the humidity. Tacky bullets can be dusted with powdered graphite.

If you subscribe to the "more is better" line of thought, your coated bullets may never dry. Don't go for a "golden" color but rather just a light varnish. If you discover that your bullets are sticky the next day, you can get by with using a little less the next time. Keep reducing until the "stickiness" is gone by the next day.

If you are sizing your cast bullets, it is necessary to lube them first. Because the sizer will remove some of the surface of a larger diameter bullet, you may need to re-lubricate the bullets after they have been sized.

Many of our bullets are of the "TL" or Tumble Lube design. These bullets have many shallow grooves that are perfect for allowing Liquid Alox to adhere to a great amount of surface. It has been reported that the accuracy of these bullets is high.
 
on castboolits I picked up a tumble lube recipe that is 45% Alox, 45% Johnson Paste Wax, and 10% Odorless mineral spirits. It actualy solved a lot of the tackiness problems.
 
Dry heat- Place bullets in a preheated oven at 100* this seems to help.

It doesn't SEEM to help, it solves the problem! Although I use a bit more than 100 degrees, 150-175 works quicker, about an hour, they're ready to load. Just don't let the better half catch you doing it. The boolits will still be slightly tacky. The mica would eliminate that.

I've got to try the JPW mixture with LLA and mineral spirits. Reports of that mix beat the LLA alone by leaving the bore polished like your car's hood!
 
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