Model 70 featherweight accuracy

[Dups]

Ok,

so still semi fighting with this model 70 featherweight .280 remington. I fixed the crown, and got it shooting 3 shots touching out of cold barrel... however, after that, the shots walk and open up. Undoubtedly related to heat issues. is their any way to remedy this? i know the featherweight's aren't "target" rifles, but designed for one or two shots at game. I'm trying to work up handloads, and having the POI move or open up isn't helping me... waiting 10 or 20 minutes between groups of 3 is also not helping... any help would be great! Thanks.

 

[USSR]

The Featherweight is a hunting rifle. The only thing that matters is that you have it zero'd for your cold bore shot. The fact that you are able to get 3 shots into your cold bore zero is great - many light contour barrels will not do that. If you don't want a wandering zero as the barrel heats up, you need a free floated heavy contour barrel.

Don

 

[Dups]

hmm... i still refuse to believe that this rifle is not capable of at least mediocre accuracy once the barrel is warmed up... i have a sportster .243 in a savage stevens, very thing barrel, that i can sit there and push a box through... and still hit reasonably accurate 2-3" at 100 yds.... factory Federal ammunition... Not exactly super hot loads or match grade ammo. i know this will never be a 1000 yd sniper rifle, but even a winchester 70 featherweight, can still hold 1-2 moa out to 300 yds, after 4-5 rounds... there's got to be a variable i'm missing. mabey i'l try buying a synthetic stock, or really grind out a good barrel channel, i wasn't able to see or feel anything touching or grabbing in my barrel, but who knows... its been glass beded, and the bedding job looks very very nice.

 

[joed]

If you want the rifle to shoot accurately after the first couple shots you need to have the barrel free floated. Hate to say it but like you were told, it's a hunting rifle, it wasn't designed to go to a gun range and shoot 100 rounds in 10 minutes.

 

[sappyg]

i usually take at least one if not two rifles with me to the range exactly because i don't like waiting for a barrel to cool down. while one cools down i'm heating up another. problem solved.

 

[Skylerbone]

Dups, could you post some targets with something for scale to reference? It may well be the rifle but some of the keener (than mine) eyes might have a better feel for any other issues. Remember too the basics with regards to mounts and rings, action screws, etc.

Letting it cool for maximum accuracy is a good rule but I suspect it can take more than 3 down the pipe first. Maybe try 5 shot strings to warm up with someone spotting. Have a duplicate target for them to mark 1-5 without you seeing it (allows you to concentrate on every shot). On the next visit start with a 10 shot group and see if those open up. Just remember to be consistent in your cleaning routine and ammo, try leaving the barrel and action together until the end of all testing and see how it goes.

Hope things resolve themselves with a clear solution (so I can reference it later if need be). Best of luck.

 

[USSR]

Letting it cool for maximum accuracy is a good rule but I suspect it can take more than 3 down the pipe first.

Have you looked at the contour of a Featherweight barrel? They're drastically reduced in diameter as soon as they come out of the receiver ring, and end up being only about .565" at the muzzle. They are the epitome of "pencil-thin".

Don

 

[Skylerbone]

Not ideal, I agree but just looking to eliminate variables. If shot 7 felt good but the spotter notes the group being lost he'll have a good idea of the rifle's limits. I use my hand as a gauge as to whether or not the barrel is ready to continue (also a good practice). The idea being that all other considerations aside the biggest distraction at the range is the trip down range or a look through the spotting scope.

I'm not suggesting his profile will shoot cool through 10 rounds, it may not even make it through 3 but he will at least know it's limits.