Muzzle Brake Curiosity

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Roamin_Wade

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My father and I went to the range yesterday. He has a Browning Stainless Stalker A-Bolt in 7mm Rem Mag. I had never shot a 7 Mag before and I was expecting a pretty good thump. He has a muzzle brake and without exaggerating, my .243 Win kicks harder than his 7 Mag. Upon looking at the brake, I noticed it has a micrometer looking adjustment for some reason. How does that part of the muzzle brake work? I would have thought a muzzle brake gets installed and that’s it but this one was adjustable. Can someone explain how that works?

Also, how much should a muzzle brake cost to have one installed?
 
Dad had a Browning in .308 with BOSS and so far as I know he never bothered tuning it as it was accurate enough for what it was intended. Brake aside, little add-ons won’t make a target rifle out of it but it was definitely effective at recoil mitigation to the point he commented he wished he had bought a 7 mag. His next .30 cal purchase was in .300 Win mag more than 20 years later, again with a brake.

Installation typically runs close to the $100 mark if it needs threading; keep that in mind as a cost savings if you find a model with OEM threads and if not, make sure there is enough meat on the barrel to have it threaded. Self-install is simple enough should threads be present from the get go.
 
One of the better brakes out there (NOT self timing) is Holland's Radial Baffle Brake.
A 7mm Dakota (Close to a 7mm STW) is not a small case, combined with the 175 grain bullet, yet even with a light one hand hold, a young teenager can shoot it that good at 500 yards. FWIW it was the first time he pulled the trigger with a live round.


Good muzzle brakes work great! The Holland is a much better brake than the one on the Browning.
 
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