My Day Job...

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I 'm in awe, not worthy and totally stroked by your work ! Although not my style in swords, I have seen that format used these last few years with notable results in Celtic FESTIVAL WHERE SWORD PLAY IS DEMONSTRATED eg: the balance on that sword looks ideal for the ancient techniques I saw displayed which did include flamboyant ( :) ) Norman flourishes .
 
Gordon said:
I 'm in awe, not worthy and totally stroked by your work ! Although not my style in swords, I have seen that format used these last few years with notable results in Celtic FESTIVAL WHERE SWORD PLAY IS DEMONSTRATED eg: the balance on that sword looks ideal for the ancient techniques I saw displayed which did include flamboyant ( :) ) Norman flourishes .
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thank you- I've studied and even taught Historic European Martial Arts and actual antique swords to inform my understanding of these swords.
 
Yes, I've admired your swords for years, Michael. Wondered when you were going to post in 'Non Firearms'. ;)
I really want one of your 9th Cent. Viking swords. Great design, nice price. I'm making do with a basic Early medieval sword that was in "Robin Hood: Men in Tights" Looks like a Deepaka. I got at Sportsman's Guide a while back for like $20....hard to go wrong at that price. But I'm building up a Viking setup, so looking for a more authentic sword. I just gotta stop buying guns for a while......:uhoh:

Keep posting your gun projects, they are well done. :thumbup:
 
JShirley said:
Welcome to THR. What's the steel?

John
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5610 spring steel, professionally Marquenched and tempered to HRc52. The tang and first inch of the blade are drawn to HRc45-48. The excellent heat treatment (by Pacific Metallurgical, Kent., WA) gives me a blade that is super-tough and durable, and holds an edge far better than the Rockwell hardness would suggest.

Knives, springs and such I generally heat-treat myself, but swords are just too long for any reasonable equipment I could fit in my shop. the heat treater I use works to aerospace specs; for them it really is 'rocket science.'
 
bikerdoc said:
Mike,
A lot of the part time, rookie, novice, amateur bladesmiths here could benefit from from your knowledge. I hope you can share as time allows.
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Happy to! My policy has always been to be willing tell anyone how to do anything that I do; too much knowledge of swords was lost to 'guild secrets,' professional secrets etc. We're planning to do some instructional videos this winter.
 
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Very impressive craftsmanship Tinker! All of them are amazing works of metal artistry as well as being extremely functional examples of classic sword designs. Quite taken with your Claymore sword!
 
bannockburn said:
Very impressive craftsmanship Tinker! All of them are amazing works of metal artistry as well as being extremely functional examples of classic sword designs. Quite taken with your Claymore sword!
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A guy named Bannockburn should be impressed by a fine Claymore. :)
 
bikerdoc

Mine was a nickname given to me by a very good friend of mine and for our common interests in all things related to English and Scottish history. Would love a Claymore along with a Sgian Dubh to keep it company!
 
bannockburn said:
bikerdoc

Mine was a nickname given to me by a very good friend of mine and for our common interests in all things related to English and Scottish history. Would love a Claymore along with a Sgian Dubh to keep it company!
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Me also,brother.
Many decades ago I did an exchange tour with the SAS. Spend a lot of time in Scotland and fell in love with people, country, and history.
 
Michael Tinker Pearce said:
5610 spring steel, professionally Marquenched and tempered to HRc52. The tang and first inch of the blade are drawn to HRc45-48. The excellent heat treatment (by Pacific Metallurgical, Kent., WA) gives me a blade that is super-tough and durable, and holds an edge far better than the Rockwell hardness would suggest.
Click to expand...

Yep. I love 5160 for large blades. Surprisingly rust resistant, too, considering the low chrome content.

John
 
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