My first .357 loads, MBC coated LSWC 158, feedback for any interested.

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All loads built with MBC "action" .357 magnum 158 Hi-tek coated LSWC, 1x fired Perfecta brass, CCI SPM primers, moderate crimp, fired through 6" Python at steel plates 18 yards downrange, offhand.

Data may or may not be within your particular manual's range so THE HIGH ROAD NEITHER CONDONES NOR RECOMMENDS THE USE OF THE DATA BELOW. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK BLAH BLAH :banghead:

With all loads had several light strikes in double action. CCI Magnum primers. Have not previously experienced DA light strikes with ANY primers to date. All loads ejected easily, no flattened primers, no real scorching to speak of.

5.1 HP38 accurate, flashy, recoil just slightly more than +p .38 special. Not real magnum power. Probably good for smaller framed revolvers. Considerable debris when ejecting cases. Somewhat smoky, probably Hi-tek coating I imagine.

7.0 HS6 somewhat smoky, no flash, debris when ejected. Slightly stronger than HP38 load maybe. Again, not what I'm looking for but consider for "gamer" load or smaller framed revolvers. Seemed accurate enough.

14.9 4227 smoky, don't really feel any stronger than above loads, at up to 3X the powder cost. Lots of unburned powder and crud upon ejecting brass. Perhaps try higher charge and or heavier crimp?


15.3 W296 only load so far that feels like a magnum. Cases somewhat dirty but very little debris if any. Accurate, flashy and fun. Some smoke I'm guessing from the hitek coating. Wish I had more W296 around. This one's a keeper.

Will try 2400 next if I can steal my supply back from my brother.
 
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The light strikes might be the primer not being seated properly. The magnum primers are a little tougher to seat, be sure to seat them all the way.

I'm guessing you got your data from the Hodgdon site. 7.0gr HS-6 is what I charge in a .38 Special +P load. Lyman says you can go to 9.7gr and I like 9.2gr under that bullet.

With W296/H110 Lyman says you can go to 15.7gr but I have not tried it. I personally feel that powder burns too hot for use with lead bullets. I'm sure the coating changes that so if you bump the charge of W296 up slowly to the Max you will like it better than with 15.3gr. Not everyone agrees with me but I use HS-6 or 2400 instead. If I buy some coated bullets ill give W296 another try.

I feel 4227 is not suited well for the .357 Magnum but is a great choice for the .44 Magnum. Lyman lists a max charge as 15.2gr 4227 under that bullet.

I like and trust the Lyman data when it comes to lead bullets. I cross check the data but I usually go with Lyman.
 
I've got Lyman but wasn't sure if I should go by 158 or 160 or whatever they are... The two that are really close. Think I checked Lee and hornady and Hodgdon for the HS6 load. 7.0 was max for lead but starting for jacketed. Thanks for the info as always. I'll think about bumping it up some.
 
For me in a S&W M686 and a Marlin Levergun 9.2gr HS-6 under a 158gr LSWC bullet works great. They are not super hot but very accurate for me. In really, the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook has a 158gr bullet with a charge of 10.2gr HS-6 and that is a REAL Magnum load lol.
 
"15.3 W296 only load so far that feels like a magnum. Cases somewhat dirty but very little debris if any. Accurate, flashy and fun. Some smoke I'm guessing from the hitek coating. Wish I had more W296 around. This one's a keeper."

Q - are you noticing any lead barrel fouling from this load? I use 16 grains of 296 with a 158 grain plated bullet with no fouling as the plating holds up.

I recently purchased a batch of coated 357 projectiles from Bayou Bullets, and was going to load them with the same load of 296. Thus, my question on whether you were getting any lead barrel fouling from your 15.3 grain 296 load.

Thanks -
 
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Just a note: I don't load 357 but I do load MBC coated LSWCs in 44mag. When I use W296 at near max I get plenty of power and flash but no smoke and no leading. I don't think the smoke you're getting is from the Hi-tek coating.
In fact, when loading Hitek coated bullets at any load and with any powder, I get very little leading (really none) and little smoke & residue. Even with unique. Magnum loads or softball loads.
Most of the smoke happens when I use conventionally lubed lead non-coated bullets. Residue is quite a bit higher as well.
Just my experience. It sounds like many of your loads are underpowered and don't completely burn. You might also experiment with a heavier crimp. That has sometimes made a difference for me. Good luck.
 
All loads built with MBC "action" .357 magnum 158 Hi-tek coated LSWC, 1x fired Perfecta brass, CCI SPM primers, moderate crimp, fired through 6" Python at steel plates 18 yards downrange, offhand.

Data may or may not be within your particular manual's range so THE HIGH ROAD NEITHER CONDONES NOR RECOMMENDS THE USE OF THE DATA BELOW. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK BLAH BLAH :banghead:

With all loads had several light strikes in double action. CCI Magnum primers. Have not previously experienced DA light strikes with ANY primers to date. All loads ejected easily, no flattened primers, no real scorching to speak of.

5.1 HP38 accurate, flashy, recoil just slightly more than +p .38 special. Not real magnum power. Probably good for smaller framed revolvers. Considerable debris when ejecting cases. Somewhat smoky, probably Hi-tek coating I imagine.

7.0 HS6 somewhat smoky, no flash, debris when ejected. Slightly stronger than HP38 load maybe. Again, not what I'm looking for but consider for "gamer" load or smaller framed revolvers. Seemed accurate enough.

14.9 4227 smoky, don't really feel any stronger than above loads, at up to 3X the powder cost. Lots of unburned powder and crud upon ejecting brass. Perhaps try higher charge and or heavier crimp?


15.3 W296 only load so far that feels like a magnum. Cases somewhat dirty but very little debris if any. Accurate, flashy and fun. Some smoke I'm guessing from the hitek coating. Wish I had more W296 around. This one's a keeper.

Will try 2400 next if I can steal my supply back from my brother.


14.5 grains of 2400 is a great load with that bullet.
 
"Bayou I will check for leading. I don't expect to find any. Thanks all for advice."

Thanks for checking, 1, and I'd be interested in hearing what you find out...

bayou
 
Getting "leading" from a Polymer coated bullet?

That will be a trick.:confused:

You may get some of the color but not leading.
 
Getting "leading" from a Polymer coated bullet?

That will be a trick.:confused:

You may get some of the color but not leading.
I agree. My experience has been that, with any coated bullet I have ever tried, you can push them far beyond where they are anything close to accuracy and still not see any leading at all.
 
When I first tired some coated 124gr 9mm bullets I intentionally tried to push them to failure to see their limits. I loaded up a full charge of Longshot for velocities of over 1200 fps and no leading. Accuracy was surprisingly good too. I'm really starting to like coated bullets for high pressure cartridges but will still use uncoated lead bullets for cartridges like the .38 Special.
 
why? any advantage to standard lead over coated?
Mostly costs even though coated bullets are only slightly more expensive. Lead bullets are also softer, no need for a coating when loading low pressure cartridges like the .38 Special. The soft lead will aid in the bullet filling the barrel.

Like I said, cost. An additional $8/500 is no big deal but when you buy 5k that's a $80 savings. That buys at least 2 pounds of powder and a box of 1k primers.
 
Good info on resilience to leading by powder coated projectiles...............this has helped..........
 
I never did. I don't think it calls for one. I have a few Mag LPPs left over from when I used 296, but haven't used one in years.
 
I shoot a lot of 357 in my Ruger 357/77. My std. load is a 158 gr coated SWC using 14 grs of 2400.

I also load 125 gr coated RN with 15 grs of 2400. Both seem to be optimal in my rifle.

Never any leading.

I'm also using a coated bullet in my M1 carbine. I think the MV to be around 1750 fps. Again, never seen any leading.

I'v gone to coated bullets exclusively for anything above 800 fps. When the un-coated lead is all gone I won't be buying anymore.
 
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why? any advantage to standard lead over coated?
The only advantage is cost savings. Like ArchAngelCD, I have found that coated bullets are not necessary for .38s at all. Even all but my full tilt .357's are just plain lead.

As far as accuracy etc, there is no downside at all to using the coated bullets. They just are not necessary and cost a little more. I cast my own so the cost difference is pretty significant. I think if I was buying bullets, I would just buy them all coated.

Do I need to use magnum primers with Blue Dot?

No. As far as I am aware, there are NO Alliant powders that require magnum primers.
 
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