My first bipod--recommendations?

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Rmeju

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I'm in the market for a bipod for an M1A, but i'm not sure which one to get. I don't need the most advanced equipment, since i'm just starting out, but I would like something that I can get some results from. It would be used for medium distance shooting. Obviously, Harris is a big name, but they're expensive, and I've hard they have some problems. Which one do you guys recommend?
 
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I didn't know bi pods were allowed in Service Rifle (but I don't shoot that game so I really wouldn't have a clue) but anywho I got to +1 on the Harris. I've used them (the original ones I bought as a matter of fact) for years and have beat the crap out the one on my hunting rifle. I mean this sucker looks rough and I've even spray painted it a time or two but the sucker just works. Legs flip down and slide just like they are supposed to. I guess if I used it as a jackstand while changing the oil in my truck it might begin to "have problems" but other than that I would like to see one that failed under normal conditions.
 
@kbob: I misspoke in the OP, which seems to have derailed the thread away from my original question. I've edited my original post. I have an M1A I'd like to shoot in service rifle, but I'd also like to get a bipod for more general distance shooting, and so that I can work on certain fundamentals (trigger squeeze, shot calling, etc) with support.

Hopefully that clears it up.

@NRR: The problems that I read about weren't so much that the Harris bipods malfunctioned, more that the Harris setup caused the gun to jump when shot, making it not so great for reacquiring a target. This is my first non-iron sight setup on any gun I've ever owned, so I don't even know if this is 1) true, or 2) important... I'm just trying to get a feel for what's out there besides Harris (if anything) that's a good value. If there's nothing else, then I guess I'll have to go with the Harris.
 
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Suggestion: spend your money on ammo and learn to shoot high power without the bipod. that is the skill you are working towards anyway, right?
I shot a lot of high power service rifle with an M1a back in the 80's and I trained regularly with a rifle coach. I never put a bipod on my match rifle.
Trigger control, position, sling technique, and sight picture can improve a lot with just dry fire practice.
 
Rmeju,
Figure on making some decisions: Height, notch leg or smooth leg and swivel or not. I ended up with a few bipods. Harris are nicer than the Harris knock offs. I ended up with some used Harris . . . Never forget pre-owned as an option. People snatch them up quickly. I have a Caldwell and it is light http://www.battenfeldtechnologies.com/caldwell/catalog.asp?product=Clutch-Bipod-Prone-Model-Black
I suggest notch leg, non swiveling. Shorter is better in this context. (6-9)

If you can start shooting a .22lr with your bipod when you get it that will help lower the cost of your learning.

Bipod shooting is a bit different than position shooting. Make sure you are still on the gun. I do think there is some benefit to breaking down the skills into manageable chunks.
 
Harris is a big name, but they're expensive...

Go look at Sinclair International's bipod and you will feel Harris bipods are inexpensive.

I have two Harris bipods and have no issues with them. There some Harris clones on the market but have no experience with them.

Get one that is sturdy, it will be more stable. I have bought some inexpensive, light weigh bipods here and there and have been disappointed with them.

I agree with most of the advice already posted.

P.S., I have a generation or two ago Sinclair bipod and it is great for shooting. Not real convenient for carry.
 
Harris costs half the price of any other bipods I would consider.

The Harris design is something of a living fossil at this point, but works very well, and the price is reasonable for the USA-made quality. That price equates to only about 120rds of quality .308 ammo, FWIW.

The standard M1A has a military style sling loop that doesn't match up with any typical bipod system, so you will probably need to attach a sporting style sling stud, or an M1913 Picatinny rail, depending on the bipod you want to use.

The other bipods I like attach to a Picatinny rail and are more modern. They also cost 50-150% more and provide very modest improvements for the extra cost: GG&G, Bobro, Atlas.
 
I can think of nothing in a Harris bi-pod that would cause it to act differently than any other brand, once the trigger was pulled.

I've shot long distance off of my backpack and off of a bi-pod with little, if any difference.
 
I use a Harris 6-9" swivel with a "Protektor" rear bag filled with heavy sand (you can buy a bag and a funnel to get fill the bag neatly from Sinclair Inc.) when I sight in a rifle or test loads. I use my hunting pack, either my day pack or my several day pack, filled with rags if needs be, to practice for the season. I also use shooting sticks to practice although I prefer the pack approach...(quicker to set up).

There are adapters for the m1A to use a Harris bipod, though I use a pack or a sling for my practice as I'll shoot military high power matches with just a sling.

Good luck and good shooting,

FH
 
@NRR: The problems that I read about weren't so much that the Harris bipods malfunctioned, more that the Harris setup caused the gun to jump when shot, making it not so great for reacquiring a target.

I don't know where you heard or read this, but it isn't due to any shortcomings of the bipod. It's due to incorrect use/bad form.

If you get jump when shooting from a bipod, it's more specifically due to bad recoil management. When I go to matches or am just out shooting with others who are also using bipods, I pretty much see guys using bipods one of two ways.

One way is to man handle the rig. The shooter clamps down on the rifle hard to keep it from jumping. Some guys are big and/or strong enough to make this work.

The second way is to let physics work for you, instead of fighting it. When a rifle jumps on a bipod, it's more because the rifle wants to jump either to the left or right, depending on how you are holding the rifle and the position of your shoulders relative to the rifle. Any vertical jump that you might get is due to the shooter failing to put tension on the legs, which is usually a result of pulling the rifle into your shoulder so that the legs of the bipod are no longer locked up, but are more on the side of being folded up.

The proper way to use a bipod is to first orient your body so that it is directly behind the rifle. You want to have your shoulders square so that an imaginary line across your shoulders would be perpendicular to your line of sight to the target. When you get into position so that you have a good natural point of aim from your position, you then want to load up the legs. This means pushing forward on the rifle with your shoulder, rather than pulling the rifle into your shoulder.

With proper technique, you should be able to keep the target in the view of the scope. I know that the above may seem uncomfortable at first, especially for those that are used to shooting from benches where they side straddle the rifle, but with practice it becomes second nature.

I'm 5'2" tall and weigh between 150 and 160. I'm not a big guy and I don't try to man handle my rifle. I just use a firm grip. Using the above technique, I've been successful with shooting everything from rimfire up to 7 mag.

As for the choice of bipods, the 6-9" models are a good choice. They work well for both a bench and the prone position. I like the swivel models. It really helps when you're shooting from a surface that leans one way or the other.

As mentioned, there are two models of Harris bipods. Yes, I like the Harris. They cost about half as much as other good bipods and take a beating.

The first option is the one where the legs are not notched. They are infinitely adjustable. You just pull them out to the length that you want and tighten the screws. I like using these when shooting from a very hard packed or concrete surface. Being able to tighten down the screws on the legs prevents them from spinning when you load up the legs.

The second option is to get the legs with notches in them. The notches make it much faster to get to the length that you want. The down side is that there are no locking screws to keep the legs from spinning (although you can add them). I like this type for shooting off of grassy and not so firm surfaces where you can plant the legs.

On my Harris, I did add locking screws to the notched legs, so I have the best of both worlds.
 
Harris bipods causing problems? That's news to me, and I've been using one for over 7 years.

It is a great bipod and I highly recommend it. For bench or prone shooting, the 6"- 9" model is great, and I prefer to have the pivoting models for shooting on uneven ground.
 
A. Buy a harris and be done with it

B. Buy a cheap bipod, become frustrated with it & throw it in the spare parts bin, then buy a harris.

I'd choose A.
 
I have no personal experience but have heard many good things from people (friends and 'range neighbors') about the UTG bi-pods. They are probably not as good as Harris, but if you're looking for a less expensive option that still maintains as much quality as possible I'd look into these.

I'd love to hear anyones input about them as well because I'll be looking into a pod myself at some point.
 
For compitition I don't know what to say. If for general shooting, go to Wal-Mart and get the Harris look a like one for $39.95 (probable made in China) works well till you can afford an expensive one.

Jim
 
I have a Harris and a Caldwell or Shooter's Ridge Harris look alike. They are different lengths and designed *slightly* differently but are so close to the same that I honestly don't know which is which anymore. Both work well.
 
I've had a Harris bi-pod on my Rem. 788 for years now, never had a problem with it, didn't take long to get used to it, pulled off some really good shots too.
 
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