Nagant 32 ACP cylinder fit problems

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mariner613

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Hi
I'm a new member of this web log.

I just bought a Nagant Revolver. As everyone knows, it is an extraordinary little piece of history for the remarkable price.

I have installed a 32 acp cylinder on the weapon and i'm having problems getting the cylinder to properly engage and advance when the hammer is cocked either in SA or DA.

I can distinctively hear 2 clicks as the cylinder is advanced slowly by hand. I hear a big click and in about 1mm later a smaller barely audible click. The single action or double action does not advance the cylinder to this second small click and something does not engage and subsequent pulls on the trigger or cocking of the hammer will not advance the cylinder.

Any suggestions anyone - is there an easy fix?

thanks
Josh
 
Compare it to the original; I bet something is different with the angle of the teeth on the cylinder.

Return it and shoot .32 S&W long out of the original cylinder or .32 magnums. The .32 HR magnum cases will probably bulge a little but should be OK.
 
Yeah, I shoot .32 longs, or magnums out of mine. I understand these are pretty sturdy, so shouldn't be a problem.
It does take more time to clean the cylinder tho.
 
I have three Nagant revolvers. One of these came with a .32acp cylinder as one of the accessories.

The 32acp cylinder had problems with the revolver it came with, a 1932 Tula, wouldn't work in a 1944 Tula either. However it would drop right in and function perfectly in a 1945 Ishevsk?

I've used it some, but see no advantage over just using .32 S&W longs in the revolvers original cylinders.

I wouldn't care to speculate why the .32 acp cylinder won't run properly in two of my Nagants, it just doesn't! Also have no clue why the cylinder works so well in the other revolver, but it does.
 
Could anyone tell me what factory made mine?
Also, I've read I can ease the trigger by locating a nut inside the grip, is there a special tool to remove these grips? Looks rivet-like to me.
 

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The pictured revolver has a Tula star on it. Ishevsk has a triangle surrounded by a circle with an arrow inside the triangle.

The grips don't come off quite like you think! They do come off though.

There should be a large screw on the right rear of the revolver. Uncrewing that will remove the side plate on the left side. The side plate will come of with the left grip and the center wood spacer doohicky. Then you can unscrew the spacer and grips from inside the gun.
 
Yep, thats the screw just above the grip.

I think there is a dissassembly tutoreal over on the Gun Boards forums in the M95 revolver forums.

Really not much inside these revolver, but can be a pain in the rear to stick them together.
 
i'm not sure yet if the replacement can be fitted to the Tula made pistols.

I'm looking at one myself and so far the only difference I find between the operating portion of the cylinders is that the replacement cylinder is .015" shorter than the Tula original cylinder. I'm thinking that the pawls fall short of the hand and that's why the new cylinder won't turn in the one I'm looking at.

The easy answer might be to find an Ishevsk revolver to put the cylinder into. Other than that it might be possible to shim the cylinder rearward, which would disrupt perhaps the most unique feature of the gun - it's mechanical closing of the cylinder/cone gap upon firing, or to lengthen the reach of the hand somehow.
 
Tinygnat is correct. I posted a detailed thread on this a few years ago. These cylinders are actually designed to need some hand-fitting so in the end they will fit your revolver. I'll see if I can dig it up.

OK, here are the pics showing where the filing must be made. I used very precise files to remove the steel a little bit at a time until the cylinder cycled. Now it works fine. If you screw it up it will jam or go out of time. The alternative is to get a bunch more Nagants until one of them fits. There's considerable variation between the precise specs on individual revolvers. The arsenal doesn't have much to do with it.

Nagantmod.jpg

cylinder.jpg


http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=230814

I've used it some, but see no advantage over just using .32 S&W longs in the revolvers original cylinders.

The advantage is cost.
 
Thanks again Z71, (Chevy fan?) I bought this gun for fun, not as a carry, or self defense weapon, so I may leave well enough alone.
 
Advantage is not having to buy a conversion cylinder and also not having to hand fit it and possibly ruin it and waste the time and money spent.

Fiocchi .32 acp 73 grain FMJ @100 FPS cost $13.06/box of 50 and Fiocchi .32 S&W Long 100 grain LWC 730 FPS cost $14.30/box of 50. So the S&W Long cost .02 more per round but you save all the hassles and expense of buying the conversion cylinder. I would say that is more cost effective. There is a difference between what you pay for something and how much it really costs you in the end. JMHO.
 
32 S&W Long 100 grain LWC 730 FPS cost $14.30/box of 50.

Where? It's double that price at the local Sportsman Warehouse. Fiocchi is somewhat cheaper, but still near $20. .32 ACP is half that for a box of fifty.

My biggest problem with shooting S&W Longs is they have a different point of impact and poor accuracy out of the Nagant. The .32 cylinder isn't quite as accurate as the real thing, but it's better than shooting the wrong cartridges in the original cylinder.
 
For the record I do not own a Nagant revolver nor have I shot one.

I've been looking up some numbers and for the Nagant cartridge I came up with .295 for the diameter, and for the S&W long I came up with .312-.314. Is that not dangerous?

Would the chamber gap be the cause of the poor accuracy?
 
I have one of the .32acp cylinders and it fit perfectly with no fitting required.

As far as firing the .32 S+W/ H&Rmag from the original cylinder goes, it fires great, accuracy is fine, but my original cylinder has a very rough inside surface, and the cases bulge enough that I have to drive them out with a large screwdriver :what:
 
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