Neck sizing and tensions

Status
Not open for further replies.

CANNONMAN

member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
892
I'm considering a micrometered neck die but what like your opinion as to how much difference this would make in accuracy and/or in brass life. I'm I thinking right that less neck sizing with .001 more squeeze from a smaller neck bushing will increase accuracy, fps, and case life [or before annealing life]? Or just change the amount of neck sizing? How much is better or little is better?
 
Are you planing on turning your necks too so every thing will be running on axis?

Bench rest shooters have probably tried ever thing in the world to get the most out of their ammo. I think most are FL sizing now. Separate all the brass by volume. This impacts pressure way more than changing neck tension.

Bullet run out is the main thing you want to keep an eye on. Since this effects how the bullet enters into the freebore/rifling. You want this at a minimum.

As far as neck sizing some bench rest shooters will have just a min of neck tension and set the bullet long. Letting the chamber seat the bullet giving Zero jump. You have to work up loads doing this for pressures will go through the roof if set not to jump.

Hopefully some of the bench rest crowd will check in and give you there perspective.
 
You can't just pick and choose a couple of things the Benchrest crowd does. It is a package deal.



What application in what rifle?
 
Agreed Walkalong. I got a lot of questions and this is just one of them. I gotta start somewhere.
 
OK. Question one:

Get an RCBS or Redding FL bushing style die. Use light to medium neck tension. Buy three bushings and play around. "Size" about 7/8 of the neck. Don't worry about trying to get close to the lands. Use match bullets designed to shoot well jumping to the leade.

But the question remains. What application in what rifle?
 
Blue68f100, I have a question on your point:

"Separate all the brass by volume."

What exactly do you mean by "volume". Can you define this for me? Is "volume" a reloading term that I am unfamiliar with meaning "manufacturer" (ie: varying types and manufacturers cases will have different volumes in their respective cases?) Please reply, as I'm very curious.
I'm a bench shooter that is new to reloading for precision rifles (all rifles for that matter) and am trying to learn as much as I can. TIA!
 
Volume for this purpose usually means the amount of water
a case will hold when filled to the case mouth..

Much easier way is to just keep your cases sorted by the lot..
They don't vary much in the same lot but could a little from lot to lot.
 
Volume for this purpose usually means the amount of water
a case will hold when filled to the case mouth..

Much easier way is to just keep your cases sorted by the lot..
They don't vary much in the same lot but could a little from lot to lot.
Perfect. That's exactly what I was thinking. I very much appreciate the info, Big7. Thank you.

Edit:
I have bags and bags full or brass that I've case separated. I read in many different places where brass from manufacturer to manufacturer will vary in a myriad of variables. I am trying to eek out every bit of accuracy from two of my rifles, so I'm only reloading and sticking to one manufacturers cases right now.
 
Might want to keep them sorted by rifle too..

Once fired, you have a perfect fit to the chamber so
no need to full length size..

Neck size only for each rifle. Will be more accurate and case life will be better.

That's what I do on caliders that I have more than one rifle for.
Works well for me and has for many years..
 
Might want to keep them sorted by rifle too..

Once fired, you have a perfect fit to the chamber so
no need to full length size..

Neck size only for each rifle. Will be more accurate and case life will be better.

That's what I do on caliders that I have more than one rifle for.
Works well for me and has for many years..
Most excellent info. Have to agree with that. Thanks again, Big7.
 
While some Benchrest folks these days might go by H20 capacity, we all just weighed them. Since they were all the same lot/brand from a maker that puts out high quality brass (Lapua), I expect that is good enough. Anyway, that is what we did.

attachment.php

attachment.php
 
They seemed to shoot just fine like that.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • DSC03460.jpg
    DSC03460.jpg
    71.8 KB · Views: 45
Thank you, Walkalong.

Could you take a few minutes and explain the notes in the second picture? I'm guessing the 106 and 107 numbers are charge weights? That is some seriously high weights. At least, weights that I myself am not familiar with. Very interesting tho. Thank you, sir.

-j
 
I would and do appreciate any and all tutorials. Links or books are welcomed. I put a pic of my rifle in the rifle section under the thread, "range report". Its a 6.5 Creedmoor. The action and barrel were put together via H&H Precision. It's not their gun. It's a carbon fiber with brake. Easy to hold and cools rapidly. Three targets are in the post. They're my hand loads at 100yds. Berger match 140gr with 40gr +/- .03 H4350. Brass is once fired Hornady A-Max 140gr. I like my groups but question why I'm shooting lower than factory loads. It makes me feel that this may become problematic as I begin my goal of 1000yds. They guys who shoot this same rig in competition are in groups of folks who shoot with speed limits on their ammo. I've not checked fps, I just "feel" I must be shooting slower and that this may become detrimental. I'm using Redding dies. The first, full size, de-cap and size neck with a .291. Second has the micrometer for seating. Unless I'm way off here, the way the first die is set up you are forced to full size the neck. Yes? Thank for your time. BTY, Nice target, Nice award, Nice way to keep stats!
 
Just read an article in NRA about bullet sorting. Something they say helps achieve 1.319" five shot groups at 1,000yds. Wow!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top