need good grip screws for 1911

[DasFriek]

Im half way into my 1911 rebuild and finish and while looking over grips screw reviews at Midway and Brownells im seeing nothing but bad reviews on grips screws that are blued. Most of the issues being too soft and stripping and some even snapping the heads off.

Were these reviews written by iron pumping monkey non gunsmiths or true issues?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a blued/black hex head normal length grips screws?
Or do i just order 2 packs and keep spares?

 

[Oyeboten]

I got some on e-bay awhile back, plain, normal kinds, slot Head, Blue, and they seem perfectly alright...quality seemed as good as good could be.


No idea where they were made, just came in a little zip-lock Bag with no label.


Might be some bad batches were imported from communist red china or some other sorry place who does outsourcing for unscrupulous middlemen to resell to unsuspecting retailers or suppliers.

 

[DasFriek]

That would seem odd being the reviews were on Wilson's and Ed Brown products screw wise. But who knows, Anything is possible these days.
I know everyone said the stainless screws were just great, Only the blued and black ones sucked.

 

[gschoelles]

How tight does a grip screw need to be? Surely has to be a user issue here! I can't think of anything greater than finger tight upon snug ever!!!

 

[Drail]

Anytime someone strips or twists the head off of something like a grip screw it is a case of using way too much force. A lot of people believe that the proper torque for any type of threaded fastener is "as tight as you can get it".

 

[rcmodel]

+1

1911 grip screws are not intended to bottom out against the grip screw bushings super tight, and certainly not so tight as to break the head off a screw of almost any quality.

On a GI gun with GI grips, there should be a slight compressed fit against the counter-sunk grip hole before the screw comes in tight contact with the bushing.

If it does, and you tighten it real tight, the screw will gall into the bushing end, and you will screw the bushing out of the frame the next time you try to take the grips off.

Unfortunately, todays non-standard parts and grips of every stripe often allow the screws to bottom out on the bushings and seize in place.

I file the bushings off on the ends and round slightly to provide proper clearance when fitting non-GI grips.

rc

 

[Mac's Precision]

I file the bushings off on the ends and round slightly to provide proper clearance when fitting non-GI grips.

rc


RC....I like you. You consistently make comments such as this that are attention to detail things that I do. You seem to have a good understanding about firearm engineering. I can't count how many screws I find that are bottomed in the bushing on thin grips. If as many people paid as much attention my work would be easier.

Cheers
Mac.

 

[RogersPrecision]

I've broken hex head grip screws using little torque.
Problem is, I can't identify the manufacturer. When they come in, I usually just dump them in my screw drawer.
I'm pretty sure the bad ones are from Brown or Wilson though.

 

[DasFriek]

Interesting info guys, From some very good smiths at that.
I think i may go with the Cylinder and Slide or EGW as they tend to over build everything when possible.

 

[Magoo]

This doesn't really help with selecting screws, but there are a few more thoughts in there that you may or may not find useful.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=531460

 

[Jim K]

Rcmodel is right; grip screws should slightly compress the grip material, but should really stop on the bushing, and the grips should be countersunk to do that; it is part the process of installilng grips. Excessive torque should not be needed.

But first, stake the grip screw bushings. Fancy glues just won't do; they were meant to be staked.

I prefer the plain old fashioned slot heads, but if you want something that won't show use, go with Torx. Do not go with Allen screws; in my experience, they will inevitably round out and then you have a real problem.

Jim

 

[DasFriek]

Interesting read Magoo, I would guess you went with slotted screws?
Im still gonna go with hex head as my range box always has tons of Allen wrench's from when i work on my CZ 452 Ultra Lux benchrest gun. I actually wore the stock Allen head screws on the trigger guard out on it taking it apart so many times for adjustments.

I picked the blued EGW screws as every part ive bought from those guys is over built and over sized just like an aftermarket 1911 part should be.

 

[DasFriek]

Dang-it Jim Keenan, Just when i think i have my mind made up.
You have a point the Allen heads to get chewed up, But i never have a Torx head when i need one also.
So ill put more thought into this as i dont have to hit the "Buy" button immediately.

I never new about staking the bushings, I locktighted mine in place with no issues.
Nor have i had any clearance issues as my grips fit the screws snuggly with the wood so i dont worry about really putting alot of torque on the screws as i know the wood will keep them from backing out.

But from you gun smiths you made me make a note to go threw my bushings and look at them for clearance and such to be done right.

I always thought gun smithing wasnt all that hard but tightening a few screws and slapping a file on something once in a while, But man when it comes down to "REAL" gunsmithing you guys make taking a sip of water sound like a 1/2 hour job to do it correctly, And i like that.