Need Help Picking My First Khukuri

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Mot45acp

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I have come to the concluson that I need one of these. After research it appears that Himalayan Imports is the way to go.

This is my first Khukuri. What would be a good first one? Price is a factor but more in the "bang for the buck" factor(or slash for the cash) not the cheapest.

My uses will be general familiarization with the blade form and use, camping, general big knife chores like mild brush clearing etc.

My questins are as follows:

What model would ya'll recomend? I am currently leaning towards the Ang Khola model.

What blade length?

What is the most durable?

What kind of maintenance is required? This will be my most expensive knife. Passing up my Endura 4.

Wood or horn handle?

What is the "cho" for?

Anything else that I might need to know?

I am pretty much sold on HI but might be open to others. I am not looking for collector value, I am looking to use this.

Paging JShirley

Thanks in advance,
Mot
 
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My first I got a WWII villager finish from deal of the day on Himalayan Imports sub forums on bladeforums. Was $100 shipped.

There is a lot of info on there you can read about before you pick one. The deal of the day is also a great way to see some unlisted models you may like.

I have bought two in the last month, a small 9" bilton, and the WWII. Both are great and the WWII is one great chopper.
 
I would recommend trolling around the HI forums on blade forums. Also look for the DOTD (deal of the day). I have a BAS that can go through just about anything, and its not supposed to be one of the better choppers.

If you want a hard use, the AK is where its at. IRCC, if you break it, they send you a new one.

You really can't go wrong with any.

Uncle Bob said it best. You don't pick the khukuri, the khukuri picks you. So just see what you like, what jumps out, what speaks to you, buy it, and have at it.
 
I've handled WWII and Ang Kola style kuks a fair bit. I prefer the WWII's lighter, thinner blade for anything I'll be up to. It's still plenty strong and plenty heafty. I simply found the AK to be a bit heavier than I'd prefer for actual work. I'd choose the AK only for gladiatorial combat, LOL.

My WWII style kuk will do anything I need. The 16.5" model is "plenty of knife". Mine, with a a well delivered blow, severs up to 2" hardwood saplings cleanly.

Read the safety stuff. Beware the glancing blow (grip strength, control and planning for the inevitable turned blade are required when using a kuk. They are the "best tool" for many things, but demand respect and have a few quirks.)

J
 
Mot,

Hi! For first-time kuk purchasers/all-around usage, I suggest one of the following:

15" Ang Khola
BAS
15-18" BDS
16.5" WWII
17" Ganga Ram Special (GRS)
18-19" Chitlangi or Chainpuri

I suggest wood, not horn. Wood requires minimal maintenance- a little oil, sometimes- and gives a good gripping surface. Maintenance for a kuk is also very minimal- rub a little oil on the blade after use, or every couple of months if you haven't used it. You can use the chakma or a Spyderco Sharpmaker to keep the correct blade profile, or use more labor intensive methods, if you want.

There are various explanations for the cho. Most accepted is that it has or had some form of religious connotation, but now is included because it's tradition.

I am not a fan or the sirupati or M43. There are a few newer models which I don't have experience with, but the ones I suggest will all make a versatile, size-efficient kukuri for you.

In fact, send me a PM, if you like.

Regards,

John
 
Mr. Shirley is correct on all accounts:)

Pretty much all HI Khuks are designed to be fully functional hard use knives...although some of them are too purdy to muss up chopping wood.

Stop by the HI forum and say hello. There's a great group of guys and gals over there that are happy to answer any and all question you might have. On top of that Yangdu is a class act to do business with. She's more than happy to pick out your perfect khuk.
 
I have got to break down and get one. After reading the stories of Indian troops using these babies on the Japaneses in WW2 and the videos of their raw chopping power I must add one to my collection of edged tools.
 
My brush cutter is $50 KA-Bar Kukri. Pops through most thin branches with a good strike, solid enough to take a few more at a thicker one, handle feels good in my hand. And if I break it, I won't regret the loss for the price.

Def not a traditional knife though, very much a working knife.

lost my hatchet in the snow, and on well seasoned, knot-free wedges it was popping them apart like they were held together with scotch tape. (As long as you don't punch your chopping block with your hand in the attempt.)

I still want one of those massive ones they use for decapitating cattle with. Couldn't swing it one handed, but great for over the mantle, or comedic letter opener.
 
There's a "sweet spot" for most missions, when it comes to size.

For me, any of the heavier kuks (Ang Kola, GRS) over about 19" are too cumbersome. Basically, as the length increases, so does the thickness, so something like a sirupati or chitlangi, which would be relatively fragile in shorter lengths (and so suited for lighter work, like light brush) becomes a really solid knife around 20" or so. Any kuk over 25" is getting to the ridiculous/useless point, IMO.

A good dedicated chopper might be:
18.5" WWII
17-19" GRS
16.5-19" AK
21" chitlangi

larger than this- again, for me, but I like large knives- is unwieldy. Shorter, and you're more in general use/pack knife territory. A 17" GRS is still small enough to fairly useful for a lot of different chopping tasks, but large enough to be a good hard-use chopper.
 
I am definatley leaning towards the WWII now. Its beauty is in its simplicity.

Can someone explain the purpose of the two little knives that come with it.

And how do you sharpen these things? It seems that these are something you would want a good toothy working edge unless they were being dedicated to fighting (which I'm not). The blade shape doesnt seem to lend itself to dragging across a typical wet stone. I may have to look into the Spyderco Sharpmaker as JShirley suggests.
 
I sharpen mine with 800-grit sandpaper. I mark up the edge with a sharpie, put a full sheet of sandpaper on some cardboard, and strop the blade lightly (lightly!), leading with the spine, adjusting the angle until I am just taking the ink off the very edge.

The weight of the blade alone is usually just the right amount of pressure to apply. This will give you a slightly convex edge, which is ideal for a chopping blade.

There are usually two little knives provided with a kuk, a dull one and a sharp one. The dull one is supposedly used like a butcher's steel, to realign the edge, but I've never had much luck with it. The sharp one is, well, just a little knife. It can be handy if it'll hold an edge, some are better than others.
 
With my 19" Chitlangi, I'd just stroke the edge with the chakma (the dull steel, not the little knife), a few times every 10 minutes or so of hard use. Cut down hundreds of small trees/big bushes with it in late 2003-early 2004.

You can sharpen your kuk to a razor edge, if you think it's a fighter, and that's what you want, or you can sharpen it like an ax. I suggest the latter.
 
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