Need help sorting a problem with Lead reloads from Jacketed

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JohnMcD348

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I've recently loaded some 45ACP and 380 loads using LRN instead of the FMJ in an attempt to make my shooting a little less expensive. I used the same charge as I did the FMJ for the LRN but found that I had quite a few feed failures. My usual 45 load is 5.4gr Win231 and the 380 is 3.1gr of same. They worked without issue with the FMJ bullets that I had loaded but noticably unreliable in the same weight in lead.

What should I look at as far as my load data and how should go about increasing or decreasing the load for functionality. These are just for plinking anf range use, nothing more.
 
First, run your lead reloads through a cartridge gauge or the chamber of the barrel, clean and out of the gun. Cast bullets are typically at least .001" larger than jacketed, and if not well seated and crimped, can cause trouble There are a few other pitfalls, too, but check that first.
 
Forgive my previous post I was tired and not thinking clearly as I typed. They are the same length. What I was actually having trouble with it seemed to be the lead loads did not cycle the firearm as reliably as the jacketed rounds did. Same charge for both. I thought the lead was slightly larger due to the lack of the jacket and thought"thought" that they would seat better than jacketed.

In both the 1911 and the Walther PPK/s, there were time that the firearm either failed to cycle completely or it would not lock up fully after chambering. I could tap the slide forward similar to doing a forward assist with an AR and it would go fully into battery and fire. Sometimes it would chamber and fire the next round without issue, other times it would seem to half cycle or repeat the failure to go back fully into battery.

I'll go back tonight and gauge the last magazine I fired. I didn't finish all 7 rounds so there are 2-3 left that I can check to see if they creeped out a little.

Thanks
 
In the quest to save some bucks via reloading, I recently started loading .45 ACP. I decided to use 200 gr LWC. My first efforts were frustrating, with similar cycling problems as what you have cited. In seeking a resolution, I found that my OAL was a bit too long. I shortened it about .03 of an inch, and bingo! I was back in business. :D

As Jim Watson advises, a case gauge should be of help to you in resolving this issue...

Corner Pocket
 
Auto pistol bullets don't "creep out". If anything, they will get pushed in deeper when the bullet hits the feed ramp.

What you need to do is take the slide off of the PPK, and the barrel out of the 1911, and chamber-check your loads.

Carrying it to the next step, find some that don't drop freely into the chambers, then "Color" them with a Black Magic Marker.
Now fully seat them in the chamber and remove them.

Where the black is rubbed off is your problem.

It may be bullet interferance with the leade of the rifling, it may be insufficient taper crimp to get all the case bell removed, or it might be something else.

Until you identify why the slide won't close fully, we can't tell you how to correct it.

rcmodel
 
I started using a Lee factory crimp die to eliminate that problem. Some lead bullets may be a little oversize and the FCD will size them down enough to feed reliably. This is something you may have to experiment with to crimp enough to fit your particular pistol.
 
In the quest to save some bucks via reloading, I recently started loading .45 ACP. I decided to use 200 gr LWC. My first efforts were frustrating, with similar cycling problems as what you have cited. In seeking a resolution, I found that my OAL was a bit too long. I shortened it about .03 of an inch, and bingo! I was back in business.

As Jim Watson advises, a case gauge should be of help to you in resolving this issue...

I had the same exact problem running oregon trail 230 LRN through my P345. Just had to push the slide forward. I originally had OAL of 1.26 then shortened to 1.245. Now they feed like a raped ape!

Just as Texastbird I also used a factory crimp die and check them in a case guage!
 
I use the Lee FCD also. The way I setup my press is to have a cartridge that I created and not loaded with powder that is set to factory size. I am using both a Lee Loadmaster and an Anniversary press. I created and painted the bottom of a round for each die set I use. That way when I setup to reload, I use the "empty" cartridge to set the dies for the press. I then check the first few rounds.

I haven't had a chance to get to the press yet since I first posted. Hopefully this weekend.

If I can hide from the HoneyDew......
 
From both experience and from the loading data, a shorter COL is required for lead generally.

Another problem could be the shaving of lead from the bullet during seating. This can be seen as being wider than the case, and/or overlapping the the case just slightly. With lead, it is usually better to seat the bullet and crimp it in seperate opperations. Application of a very light crimp most often adds to accuracy.
 
Don't use jacketed data for cast bullets. Your 5.4 grain load is a tenth over max for either jacketed or cast. Likely not the end of the world. However, Hodgdon gives 4.3 to 5.3 of 231 for 230 grain RN cast bullets. Oddly the same for 230 grain jacketed.
Use a light taper crimp too. It'll aid feeding.
If you haven't already, you may want to extend the feed ramp up the sides of the chamber too.
 
I'd suggest the Dillon case gage for your semi auto pistol ammo. Chambering rounds in your barrel chamber works the same. I like the case gage because I can verify ammo will chamber in a standard chamber cut for the several firearms I produce ammo for in a common caliber.

Whenever you change any components in your loads, you should back down the powder charge to starting levels and work back up until you find an accurate load. Crimp, powder, OAL, primer, etc. can affect your peak pressure and safe operating area for your gun/load combo.
 
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