Need info on Arisaka 6.5 please....

[Glennster]

I'm looking at buying an Arisaka 6.5 that's been sporterized. I'm concerned about a few things, I hear that the early Jap rifles (barrels) where made with high quality steel and that the later rifles were questionable. How can I determine if it's a high quality model or early model?
This rifle does not come with any ammo, so I'm not sure if it's still actually in the Jap 6.5 configuration. What do folks rechamber these to?
THANK YOU for any help!

 

[WardenWolf]

The 6.5mm Arisakas were produced pre-war to early war before being replaced in new production with the 7.7mm Arisaka 99 and derivatives around 1939 to 1941. Basically, if it's a 6.5mm Arisaka, it's early war at latest, and high quality. I have an early production Type 99. Nice rifle.

 

[Glennster]

The guy selling it says it's a 38, I have plenty of 6.5 bullets for my 6.5/284. Would the ballistics on the 6.5 Jap be about the same, I run 2950 fps...

 

[WardenWolf]

While I can't say anything about velocity, I will tell you that the Arisaka 38 will handle nuclear loads. It has one of the strongest receivers of any rifle ever made, and it was the only rifle to survive post-war destructive testing. The last gun to actually fail was an Arisaka 99. I've heard of people doing absolutely stupid things with Type 38's and the gun survived, including one moron who had the chamber lengthened to .30-06 and shot .30-06 bullets through the original barrel. He actually hunted with that thing, and both gun and barrel took the pressure.

 

[BrocLuno]

Good fun rifles. Any of the chrome bore barrels are of good quality. Even the last ditch 99's had good metal and tough actions, they just dispensed with any sort of fine finishing.

 

[GCBurner]

Kind of pricey to shoot in either 6.5x50mm or 7.9mm Jap calibre, though. I think Norma is about the only manufacturer making loaded ammo or brass for these two, and it's close to $50 for 20 rounds, mail order.

 

[BrocLuno]

Not quite that bad

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/category/categoryId/164

6.5 is available more often than 7.7 in my experience. I'm waiting on another run of 7.7 - I've already pre-ordered. As soon as I have enough brass, I'll start reloading.

There was an explosion and fire at Kinematics Research last month and that killed a good source of 7.7 loads. I hope they get back up and running? Sorry to hear that they lost a long-time employee

 

[WardenWolf]

Hornady makes 7.7x58 Jap. It's around $21 per 20 rounds. It's actually relabeled PRVI Partizan ammo, though. The headstamps don't lie.

 

[bannockburn]

The Type 38 Arisaka was adopted in 1906 and was in produced in several different variants: the Rifle (31" barrel), the Short Rifle (25" barrel), and the Carbine (19" barrel).
The Type 99 rifle was designed with several shortcuts to help speed up production, and thereby replaced the Type 38 in 1939. At this time the Japanese military also changed over to the 7.7mm. cartridge.

The Type 38 is a modified Mauser action, being one of the strongest military bolt action designs ever made. The 6.5mm. cartridge, adopted in 1897, was a semi-rimmed case which in its military ball loading, utilized a 139 gr. bullet with a muzzle velocity between 2400 to 2500 fps.

The Arisaka action was never a popular choice for conversion into a sporting rifle. The original wood stocks were of poor quality and there were few commercially made stocks available. The only cartridge readily adaptable to the Type 38 action is the .257 Roberts, but the rifle must be rechambered for it. Also accuracy is questionable due to the .257 bullet being undersized for the 6.5mm barrel. The rifle may be rebarrelled but again problems with the existing barrel threads make it very difficult to get a new barrel fitted properly.

 

[NCsmitty]

If it's the original 6.5x50 chambering, ammo is available in other than Norma. Norma is quality ammo, but a bit high priced.

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/category/categoryId/164

If you are considering another chambering, providing the barrel is in good condition, the 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser might be a good choice if the magazine handles the longer round. And the 260 Remington also should fit, with a reaming of the original chamber.


NCsmitty

Drawings courtesy of Stevespages.com.

 

[USAF_Vet]

I have a 1906 Arisaka type 38 rifle (31" bbl) my step-dads father brought home from the Pac Theater.

I haven't fired it because of the expensive ammo, but with the links provided, I may order some and test it out. I'm looking for a type 99 bayonet to go with it, but they often cost more than the rifles do. Don't want a repro either.

I don't see a lot of Arisaka's, and never seen a sporterized one. I plan on keeping mine the way it is and making a display case for it. Too much history and sentimental value in that rifle. Even though the Imperial Japanese Chrysanthemum was ground off, some of it still remains.

 

[NCsmitty]

USAF_Vet, here's a listing on Gunbroker that may be what you want. No bids yet. Shipping is a little heavy though.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=217187043



NCsmitty

 

[dickttx]

The first rifle I ever bought was a 6.5 Jap. Wasn't too impressed so I sold/traded.
I have had some dies and maybe a few Norma cases sitting around for over 40 years. If anyone can use them PM me and you can have them for the cost of shipping.

 

[8mmman]

I love my 6.5 and 7.7 Jap Rifles

I've been shooting both for near on to 50 years now. I have several and have been hand loading for them for over 40 years. NNY and PPU make ammo and brass so times are great if you load and want to shoot them.

YOu will find a140 grain bullets at about 2,500 FPS is very close to the original 6.5 loading of a 139 grain FMJ at 2,450 FPS.

Their good rifles so have fun and blast away.

 

[davids1251]

Iwo Jima Arisaka

I have a 6.5 Arisaka that is in good firing condition I purchased it from an estate of a Marine that had captured it after the battle of Iwo Jima. It still has the mum on it and the serial number on the breach is 41671 and the bayonet is 46956. There are marks that resemble three circle edge triangles that look almost like nuclear warning symbals. I assume it is the Japanese Armory marks which also appear on the 20 inch bayonet (The bayonet has a heavy metal sheath). I took it to a gunsmith to be checked over for me and he had to make a screw for it and then fired it confirming the 6.5mm and said it is a real nice one. Is there any possible way I can verify if this rifle was used at Iwo Jima? I know this marine was at Iwo Jima because his brother showed me his orders that placed him there.

 

[BrocLuno]

That's about all the proof you are likely to get? I'd bet it's as stated. That sounds like a real collector grade seeing as you have the back story

Also, if any you want to try reloads, there is a fellow that goes by the name of Mr Nambu who advertises on GB and AuctionArms. He can supply ammo for about $18 box. They are decent test rounds and good brass

Got my first 6.5 last night. A real beater and missing parts, but the action & bore looks like it'll clean up Stock and misc parts are a tosser. I'll be looking for a sporter stock. There are few out there. (real sporter, not cut down military). I wanna see what the deal is with 6.5mm bullets

 

[Fullboar1]

While I can't say anything about velocity, I will tell you that the Arisaka 38 will handle nuclear loads. It has one of the strongest receivers of any rifle ever made, and it was the only rifle to survive post-war destructive testing.

I remember reading that it was the only action I think it was Weatherby (although it could have been P.O.Ackley) couldn't blow up no matter how hard they tried.

 

[mmitch]

Here's a 6.5 bring-back passed down to me from my Dad. He was an RM-3 on a destroyer that was part of the first DESRON into Tokyo Bay, after the armistace. It's great shooter if you can afford to feed it!



Mike

 

[BrocLuno]

Well, the bore on mine is toast. No matter how hard I scrub and with every solvent I have, I can't find any rifling Just black rough tube. I'm sure it was shot with surplus corrosive ammo and just let to sit. I'll set it aside and work on my 7.7mm rifles.

I'll slowly collect the parts and get her running, at least enough to test on a rope. If the action works out OK, I'll consider a rebarrel. Pac-Nor or maybe my local smith? The Type 38 6.5mm should be before the switch to metric threads? Anyway, the bolt face shows little wear, so if they had not trashed to bore, we might have had a shooter?