Neglected Thompson Center Hawken

[Barny]

All,

I have recently acquired a Thompson Center Hawken from a gentleman in need of money. The price was fairly low so it was bought without being seen before hand. When visually inspected, the gun looks like it has never been cleaned. Rust near the nipple and throughout the barrel.

Any recommendations on trying to get this old gal exhaling smoke again? My initial thought was to clean all the surface rust around the nipple and scrub the barrel with bore solvent until rust free. Will see how it shoots regardless of barrel condition (If barrel is good condition to fire that is).

Thanks in advance. I have wanted a Hawken ever since I was young.

 

[rodinal220]

Purchased a few like that.I soak the bore with solvent then scrub with a nylon brush then inspect.If you still have rust or pits, I wrap some 0000 steel wool with J-B paste and Ballistol around a jag.I give it 20 stokes,clean with a solvent then dry patch and inspect.
Even the ones with a few pits shoot well.

 

[Patocazador]

I bought a "cheap" one like that. I've spent way more than the initial cost trying to clean up the bore. I tried JB paste, a brass brush with 000 and 0000 with JB and lastly, valve grinding compound to the tune of 60 strokes.
It's still rough as a cob and has to be swabbed between every shot to shoot a so-so group.

Do yourself a favor and sell it to someone for a wall hanger.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Shoot it and see how it groups. Even a pitted bore can deliver good groups.

 

[J-Bar]

Soak the barrel in "Ed's Red" ( automatic transmission fluid mixed with acetone) for a couple of days, brush and dry it with patches, and shoot it.

You could be very pleasantly surprised.

Good luck.

 

[Barny]

All,

Thank you for the replies. Looks like my initial plan was along the right path. Will post updates.

 

[BCRider]

If you run into cleaning issues with the rust and fouling I would suggest Bar Keeper's Freind kitchen cleaning powder. Just note that it'll also remove the browning or bluing. But if the rust around the nipple has already done that then you have nothing to lose.

The BKF works like a hot darn on rust when I've used it on old steel parts. So running water wetted patches dipped in the BKF will clean out both fouling and rust at the same time.

Even though it's a powder it does not have coarse abrasive qualities. I've even used it on shiny parts with a soft cloth and light pressure to clean away rust without damage to the shine of the original surface.

 

[PapaG]

JB paste has saved more than a few with what looked like lost bores for me. Tight patch on a jag, lots of strokes and patience.

 

[Choctaw]

JB paste has saved more than a few with what looked like lost bores for me. Tight patch on a jag, lots of strokes and patience.

JB Paste really works well. I bought a Renegade a couple of years ago with a rusty bore. The previous owner lied about the bore's condition. Anyway, I used JB Paste and Kroil. I was patient and was able to get all of the rust out.

 

[Barny]

I will have to purchase some jb paste it seems. I started scrubbing with a brush and bore solvent followed by steel wool. I have gotten about 95% of the rust out. It appears that only from the muzzle to five inches down the barrel is severely pitted. Hopefully it will still shoot alright.

 

[1911 guy]

On the off chance the barrel won't shoot because of damage, there are still barrels available for the Hawken. But I'd keep going the route you're on until it proves fruitless. Often, black powder barrels can seem pretty bad, but clean up to shoot acceptable in spite of first impressions. I cleaned up a .40 cal percussion for someone once. Had to remove the breech plug, wrap 0000 steel wool on a dowel and run it through on a hand drill for almost a half hour just to get the chunks of rust out. Switched to JB on a patch for a few days and now the rifle shoots very respectable groups at 50 yards.

 

[PapaG]

The slicker you get it the better, usually. Just be sure not to wallow out the muzzle.
Interesting note. A friend had a bench rest 45 percussion he couldn't get to shoot and he browned the bore. Shot like a million bucks after that. I have a "bore restored" Renegade that doesn't look as slick as I like but with ticking patches and a tight ball does just fine. Experiment along the way.

 

[loose noose]

I got a Thomson Center Arms in .45caliber, that had a very rusted bore, however the outside looked very good/excellent, I bought from a friend for right around $100.00, noted at Mid South Shooters Supply, that same gun was going for $700.00+.

After trying all the other methods of cleaning out the rust, to no avail, I used Naval Jelly just inside the bore, and viola, the bore came out very clean completely void of rust. Needless to say I ended up using JB Bore Polish to finish the job, and that bore is just as shiny as a spank babies butt.

Afterword, I took it out and shot some balls thru it and they were very accurate, inside an inch at 50 yards, and the mini balls, hand cast were shooting right at 1-1.5" (3 shot groups) at 100 yards.

Be very certain not to get any of the Nava Jelly on the outside of the barrel as it will destroy any bluing, making the finish a dull gray, and I would suggest using a bore paste afterword to clean the Naval Jelly out of the bore. Incidentally I use the real black powder, and after shooting use the Murphy's Soap Oil, Hydrogen Peroxide, and Rubbing Alcohol (equal parts) to clean the bore. Works for me with little effort, and use liberal amounts of Thompson's bore butter down the bore.

 

[Barny]

All,

Thank you again for all the help. Now that I have the bore ready for hand lapping, any suggestions on cleaning the nipple area? I remove and cleaned the nipple (may need replaced). However the area that houses the nipple is probably in the worst shape. Very deep, ugly pitting.

Thanks in advance all.

 

[LoneGoose]

I've done this: Cut an acid brush's bristles to very short. Use it and a degreaser (brake parts cleaner will do) to scrub most of the old rust out of the pits. Smush JB Weld into the pits, then squeegee off the excess with a cut up credit card or equivalent. When it is completely cured, wrap fine wet-or-dry sandpaper around a small file and level the surface. Touch up with a Sharpie or your choice of color-matching. Good luck.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Don't worry too much about the pitting. If I did, I'd magnaflux it at an autoshop to ensure its integrity.

For non-shooters, I'd tig weld up the pits and file it down, sand, polish and reblue it. I don't want to do that to a shooter though.

Remember, you're supposed to be enjoying yourself and not playing restorationist.

 

[gwpercle]

+1 on the J-B Bore Compound.
I've salvaged a few with a brass brush , wrapped tightly with 0000 steel or copper wool , and coat the wool with J-B paste.
Gary