New reloader - .270 win - any tips?
- Thread starter Texaszach
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IMR-4350
There are many other powders that work for all the common non-magnum cartridges -- from 257 Roberts to 30-06. We could list 20 to 30 great powders. Some are hard to work with (but very effective) and some are easy to work with and equally effective. 4350 is an easy one for 270 Win and is known to be one of the most accurate. Eventually you'll start experimenting and find other powders you like. [Note: IMR4350 is also good for 30-06. Along with 2 dozen other powders. You'll have fun experimenting.]
Dies
Lee dies are great. Virtually all modern die manufacturers make very good standard dies, just about all of them are exactly on par with the all others. Lee dies are every bit as good as the others but a lot less expensive.
When you desire to produce high performance match ammunition, several manufacturers like RCBS and Redding and Forster have special dies (and other tools) that do more for you. And of course you pay dearly for those tools. But standard ammo doesn't need it.
There are many other powders that work for all the common non-magnum cartridges -- from 257 Roberts to 30-06. We could list 20 to 30 great powders. Some are hard to work with (but very effective) and some are easy to work with and equally effective. 4350 is an easy one for 270 Win and is known to be one of the most accurate. Eventually you'll start experimenting and find other powders you like. [Note: IMR4350 is also good for 30-06. Along with 2 dozen other powders. You'll have fun experimenting.]
Dies
Lee dies are great. Virtually all modern die manufacturers make very good standard dies, just about all of them are exactly on par with the all others. Lee dies are every bit as good as the others but a lot less expensive.
When you desire to produce high performance match ammunition, several manufacturers like RCBS and Redding and Forster have special dies (and other tools) that do more for you. And of course you pay dearly for those tools. But standard ammo doesn't need it.
So when is a ballistic tip better for hunting. Longer ranges?
Or should I use them more for punching paper?
My only experience was seeing a 8 pointer get a double lung with a ballistic tip from a .270 wsm and left a tiny hole on both sides. We thought my girlfriend missed because there wasnt a single drop of blood. But I spotted the buck laid in some cactus about 30 yards off. This was from 100 yards or so with a 130 gr Winchester ballistic silver tip
Or should I use them more for punching paper?
My only experience was seeing a 8 pointer get a double lung with a ballistic tip from a .270 wsm and left a tiny hole on both sides. We thought my girlfriend missed because there wasnt a single drop of blood. But I spotted the buck laid in some cactus about 30 yards off. This was from 100 yards or so with a 130 gr Winchester ballistic silver tip
most all 270 caliber bullets are designed with the 270 winchester in mind. the 270wsm pushes the bullets out a bit faster and may not let the bullet perform as intended. you should have no problems with 270 caliber bullets in a 270 winchester.
the 110gn bullets are usually made as a varmint load and may not work as intended on a bigger animal such as deer or elk. the bullet jacket is usually thinner and can come apart and not penetrate as much as necessary.
murf
the 110gn bullets are usually made as a varmint load and may not work as intended on a bigger animal such as deer or elk. the bullet jacket is usually thinner and can come apart and not penetrate as much as necessary.
murf
Sounds like it worked fine to me? 30' is about two hops? I'm not dedicated to the BTs, just had could luck with them on the accuracy side and the hunting side as well.
I would have no problem using any other popular bullet as long as it holds 1" or better groups at 100 yds in my rifle. Deer just don't seem to be that picky.
I would have no problem using any other popular bullet as long as it holds 1" or better groups at 100 yds in my rifle. Deer just don't seem to be that picky.
Oh it worked fine, just have never seen a kill so clean.
Like I said I usually use corelokts.. They're cheap and haven't let me down in the field yet.
Only bullet that I had a problem with was the 130 gr sp in my .270 win.
But I've also heard of the corelokts doing the same thing
I'm definitely looking forward to stepping up to "premium" ammo this season.
Self loaded at that.
Like I said I usually use corelokts.. They're cheap and haven't let me down in the field yet.
Only bullet that I had a problem with was the 130 gr sp in my .270 win.
But I've also heard of the corelokts doing the same thing
I'm definitely looking forward to stepping up to "premium" ammo this season.
Self loaded at that.
My two personal favorites would be the 130 Partition or the 130 Accubond. Accubonds seem to give the same great accuracy as Ballistic Tips but hold together better to assure deeper penetration. The Partition just works. It is very dependable and predictable.
I shot exactly one deer with a Sierra 130 SBT nearly 30 years ago. Never used another one. It killed the deer just fine but came apart. I want more penetration. I would rather if the jacket stays with the core.
I shot exactly one deer with a Sierra 130 SBT nearly 30 years ago. Never used another one. It killed the deer just fine but came apart. I want more penetration. I would rather if the jacket stays with the core.
Knowing DZ, he recovered the bullet or part of it. Dan Zelenka is an accomplished rifleman.
I like Lee dies. And RCBS, Redding, Dillon. If you get Lee, get the set with the neck size, FL size & seater. I added set screws to all the lock rings and they makes swapping dies easy.
The Lee trimmer that is 4 pieces works great. The cutter and base are 1 set. The stud and shell holder are a seperate set. The cutter & stud go together and the base & shellholder go together. With this setup in a cordless drill you can spin the case to clean it with steel wool or scotchbrite. Lube, size then trim/chamfer/debur. That will save you getting a tumbler. There are also chemical cleaners that would not require a tumbler.
Don't rule out used equip. I would be tempted to get a good used scale and powder dispenser. If you wanted to you could do without (work around) a powder dispenser. I got a Uniflow and a Redding used and gave away the 2 Lee power drops. Some guys get by without a trickler. You can get one cheap enough.
I like Lee dies. And RCBS, Redding, Dillon. If you get Lee, get the set with the neck size, FL size & seater. I added set screws to all the lock rings and they makes swapping dies easy.
The Lee trimmer that is 4 pieces works great. The cutter and base are 1 set. The stud and shell holder are a seperate set. The cutter & stud go together and the base & shellholder go together. With this setup in a cordless drill you can spin the case to clean it with steel wool or scotchbrite. Lube, size then trim/chamfer/debur. That will save you getting a tumbler. There are also chemical cleaners that would not require a tumbler.
Don't rule out used equip. I would be tempted to get a good used scale and powder dispenser. If you wanted to you could do without (work around) a powder dispenser. I got a Uniflow and a Redding used and gave away the 2 Lee power drops. Some guys get by without a trickler. You can get one cheap enough.
Bmac1949
Member
I loaded less than 100 .270 so I'm no expert but I got a lot of good advice from some on the guys in this forum, MEHeavy is one that comes to mind. I started with on of the Lee kits and ordered the Lee trimmer and quickly went for the LE Wilson trimmer. Which is great for the money. You'll need a trimmer for .270 it seems to grow. Here is the load that is working for me so far. 130gr Hornady InterLock, 45.5gr H4895, trimmed to 2.534 COAL 2.700. I'm getting groups of less than 1" at 100yd. I think it's pretty standard and a lot of guys might shoot something similar. With all due respect I thing the penatration of the 130gr is pretty good. I did an experiment using two old truck rims. I stacked them end to end and shot from 100 yards it went completly through one rim and through one side of the other. I'm guessing that's in the neighborhood of 1/2" forged steel.
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BoilerUP
Member
I have an older Savage 110 in .270 that randomly wouldn't group worth a damn a couple years ago with either Remington factory 130gr PSPs or handloads with 130gr Nosler BTs and Varget. I was VERY close to rebarreling it (even bought a 30-06 barrel) but decided to give it one last go...with a new Boyd's Featherweight Thumbhole stock and using H380 instead.
After sighting in with Remington factory ammo, I fired four rounds each at 47.5/48.0/48.5/49.0gr and the only ones that were consistently good (sub-1") were the 49.0gr load; no pressure signs on the brass with a grain to go before hitting Nosler's max. I think +/- 0.4gr and I'll FINALLY have this thing worked in.
Got some 140gr GameKing HPBTs to try...but I might just have to buy another box of BTs and play with 4831SC and maybe Varget again since the gun is hinting at liking near-max loads.
After sighting in with Remington factory ammo, I fired four rounds each at 47.5/48.0/48.5/49.0gr and the only ones that were consistently good (sub-1") were the 49.0gr load; no pressure signs on the brass with a grain to go before hitting Nosler's max. I think +/- 0.4gr and I'll FINALLY have this thing worked in.
Got some 140gr GameKing HPBTs to try...but I might just have to buy another box of BTs and play with 4831SC and maybe Varget again since the gun is hinting at liking near-max loads.
BigBob3006
Member
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2005
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- 136
Tex,
Friend, the advise I'm giving you is the same advise I gave my own sons. Buy a loading manual, the 50th Edition of the Lyman Reloading Handbook is a good one, and read it cover to cover. Then do it again. BEFORE you spend another dime. Visit this site and the Reloading Bench every chance you have.
SAVE YOUR MONEY! ASK QUESTIONS! When your life becomes less hectic and you have the best equipment available Buy everything you need and welcome to the family.
Friend, the advise I'm giving you is the same advise I gave my own sons. Buy a loading manual, the 50th Edition of the Lyman Reloading Handbook is a good one, and read it cover to cover. Then do it again. BEFORE you spend another dime. Visit this site and the Reloading Bench every chance you have.
SAVE YOUR MONEY! ASK QUESTIONS! When your life becomes less hectic and you have the best equipment available Buy everything you need and welcome to the family.
Clark
Member
A 130 gr 270 boat tail Nosler Ballistic tip at 2875 fps muzzle [wimpy load and short barrel] will kill deer just fine at 500 yards. Just hit them in the front 1/3 of the body [no gut shots, please!] and they will either run 50 feet and die or bang flop.
I killed 8 mule deer that way.
I killed 8 mule deer that way.
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