New to me 686-6

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I traded my 4” 686-6 for an outboard motor. I’m not going to replace it with anything that’s not P&R unless I end up going with a Rossi Cyclops or find a stupid deal on an early 90s 6 shot Taurus 66. If it’s a Smith then I’m looking at early BP era or earlier. The newer guns just don’t do much for me.
 
Here's the one I shoot in competition...no, I don't clean the exterior between matches...and I've never had any issues with the lock

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The most obvious change I've made are the sights. As MrBorland posted, the factory front blade is mostly useless on a competition revolver. What you can't see is all the internal work that has gone into it.

Here is a picture of the grip I'm using. However, when I'm shooting one handed, I do take my thumb off the frame

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My 4" no dash is the only 686 I NEED, but a 3" 686+ and a competitor are the only other ones I WANT.
I'd recommend them both! The competitor is really a nice shooting gun and even warm magnums are a breeze to shoot. The three inch 686+ is a fantastic trail gun and also easy to shoot warm mags out of. It just does so with more muzzle flash.
 
The only thing I like better than a Smith 686 are two 686s, but I've got to side with West Kentuck that I just don't much care for the newer models these days. In fact, I do have two 686s, one of them being a no-dash and the other being a 686-6. The no-dash is a beautiful gun. Wood grips, no lock and it has a beautiful finish. Plus it has the S&W logo stamped in the side plate, not under the cylinder release. They used to do that with the 66 no-dash, but they stopped. It's a small thing, but it's a nice touch.

So what don't I like about the new 686? The finish is supurb and the action is like ice.

The problem is that it didn't come like that! Like most stainless Smiths, the steel appeared to have been sandpapered by orangutans. When I got it, it had the marks going every which way. I sat down with a few FINE! polishing pads and some Flitz! Polishing Paste and I polished my head off. It took me a few Westerns, but I did it. I also put some springs in it and now it's great. I just don't know why S&W couldn't have delivered it at least looking like it does now.

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After a few hours of polishing, my new 686 began looking like a nickel finish!

 
... In fact, I do have two 686s, one of them being a no-dash and the other being a 686-6. The no-dash is a beautiful gun. Wood grips, no lock and it has a beautiful finish. Plus it has the S&W logo stamped in the side plate, not under the cylinder release. They used to do that with the 66 no-dash, but they stopped. It's a small thing, but it's a nice touch.
I wonder if the placement of the S&W logo was a year-model thing, or if they did some one way and some the other? My no-dash 686 and no-dash 586 (from 1982 and 1983, respectively) both have the S&W logo under the cylinder release. You can see in the photo in Post #17 above. The logo does look good on the side plate, though.

Edit: looking at some photos, I'm thinking that they may have had the logo on the side plate in the 1980/1981 time frame. Do you know the year of production on your gun?
 
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Confederate

Nice work with the Flitz on you Model 686s but you might want to give Mother's Mag Polish a try sometime on your stainless steel guns. I think it does a better job of polishing with slightly less effort.
 
Thanks for your comments. I think my gun was the first generation S&W. I've always wanted a Model 66 with a pinned barrel and stamped side plate. I've just never found a great model. They're wonderful guns. The fellow who taught me to shoot had a Model 66 and a snubby Model 19. And though I loved my stainless Security-Sixes (still do), I still wanted the 66!

They're beautiful.

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I'm retiring in 2 weeks, and I'm going to turn in my issued S&W Model 686-6 without a single regret. Oh, it's a nice revolver, and I've consistently shot perfect scores with it during semiannual qualifications. So, why don't I love it? This: S&W Model 65-1.jpg
My Model 65-1 is pinned & recessed and has the best, smoothest trigger pull of all my revolvers, and that's saying something. Never had the box, the original grips, or the paperwork. :cool:
 

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My 686 has the dreaded lock. Unfortunately, it’s badass.

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We shoot it more than any of our other guns now.

I could never find a Smith without the lock, nor could I bid high enough to get one online, so unfortunately my 686+ 4" has the lock but it's one of my favorite revolvers hands down. This is the one gun I'd never sell. Can't argue with accuracy...

Laura
 
Miss Laura, I sympathize with your situation. My "no lock" guns have been in my possession a very long time, but, then again, I'm old!
 
So I ran into a guy that was that had been wanting a 4 in 686. After we talked for awhile, we worked out a trade for his 586. So my 686-6 for his 586-1 plus a couple of bucks from me. How did I do?
 

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The first thing I noticed is the slick trigger. This 586 must have had trigger work done at some point.
While the cylinder doesn’t lock up as tight as some newer L frames I’ve felt, the timing is spot on. Hopefully I’ll make it out to the range for a test drive this week.
 
After reading this thread in it's entirety it has become apparent to me that I need to take a small vacation. Someplace nice and quiet and scenic.
 
The first thing I noticed is the slick trigger. This 586 must have had trigger work done at some point.
While the cylinder doesn’t lock up as tight as some newer L frames I’ve felt, the timing is spot on. Hopefully I’ll make it out to the range for a test drive this week.
Based upon my limited experience, the early models don't necessarily need any trigger work to be slick. They may need the spring strength reduced in order to be really light in D/A and lighter than stock in S/A, but not necessarily any stoning or anything like that. My '82 model 686 with lightened mainspring has a lighter and smoother action than any of the three Pythons that I've compared to, or than any other full-size revolver I've handled; it is just outstanding. My all-stock '83 model 586 is slick, but the action is heavier than the 686 because the springs are factory stiff. My 67-1 with a lighter mainspring also isn't as sweet as the 686, but it could probably use some more rounds through it, and could also benefit from even lighter springs including a lighter rebound spring.
 
Based upon my limited experience, the early models don't necessarily need any trigger work to be slick. They may need the spring strength reduced in order to be really light in D/A and lighter than stock in S/A, but not necessarily any stoning or anything like that. My '82 model 686 with lightened mainspring has a lighter and smoother action than any of the three Pythons that I've compared to, or than any other full-size revolver I've handled; it is just outstanding. My all-stock '83 model 586 is slick, but the action is heavier than the 686 because the springs are factory stiff. My 67-1 with a lighter mainspring also isn't as sweet as the 686, but it could probably use some more rounds through it, and could also benefit from even lighter springs including a lighter rebound spring.

My 1963 Model 12-2 has a smooth DA pull and a fine SA pull that is slightly heavier than my 1975 Model 65-1 or 1982 Model 13-3. I attribute this to the assumption that the 12-2 was carried more (based on remaining finish) and shot less than the two heavier guns. It has been my experience that the more you shoot a S&W revolver, the better the trigger gets. After 35 or 45 years, they're all good! :cool:
 
My 1963 Model 12-2 has a smooth DA pull and a fine SA pull that is slightly heavier than my 1975 Model 65-1 or 1982 Model 13-3. I attribute this to the assumption that the 12-2 was carried more (based on remaining finish) and shot less than the two heavier guns. It has been my experience that the more you shoot a S&W revolver, the better the trigger gets. After 35 or 45 years, they're all good! :cool:


I don't buy old Smith's because I think they're significantly better built. I buy em cause they're already broken in!
 
I have a set of twin 686s with 4" barrels. They are great handguns. The 6" is nice, too, but the balance on the 4" is about perfect.
 
Purchased a new 4" 686-6 in Dec. 2009. I love it. Not a lock fan either but other than that the gun is superb. The lock's been unlocked since day one and I've basically forgotten all about it. Have fired many 6" revolvers over the years and decided 6" was too long for me. Didn't want a snubby because of accuracy issues (the issue is my marksmanship skills and snubby's are challenging to a mediocre pistolero like me). Four inches is indeed about what I consider to be perfect.
 
I had me a 686 once.

302 feet, 3 inches long, displaced 4,270 long tons, four 21 inch launching tubes, and had a virtually unlimited range.

:D:D:D

Seriously...I noticed a number of years ago that Smith & Wesson has many models which match several of the hull numbers on the submarines I've served aboard:

SSBN 625 Gold: Model 625
SSN 671: Model 671 Tomahawk
SSN 686: Model 686
MTS 626: Model 626
MTS 635: Nope
SSN 765: Nope

Makes me want to add them to my bucket list! They sure are purdy!

USS L. Mendel Rivers 01.jpg
 
I'd taken the S&W logo for granted being by the release. The current way they have markings on either side so one doesn't forget what they may be holding and can advertise as well. ;) Soon well see logos on top and bottom. Like cars, no angle is left to leave doubt from outside or inside. ;)

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