New to reloading, starting with .223/5.56, have a few questions.

[tdowell]

Just decided to get into reloading recently because I got a good deal on a Lee anniversary kit and I’d like to save some money on ammo. I know Lee’s not the greatest, but it’s enough for me to get started and decide if I want to do this more. So, here's what I've bought so far.

Lee Anniversary Deluxe kit, with the classic cast press,
Lee .223 dies
2lbs H335 powder
300 Nosler 55gr Spitzer BT
100 Hornady A-Max 75gr BT
1000 CCI #41 primers
Lee Zip Trim
Case length gauge w/ shell holder
Lymans reloading manual 49th edition

I've upgraded:
Lee Auto Prime,


1st question, I had originally bought some CCI small rifle magnum primers, however, I'm reloading for my AR15 and I have been told that they could be too soft and cause double fires. Is this the case or was I getting the high pressure pitch from a salesman?

2nd question, I've had some trouble getting the old primers out of the brass with the Lee kit, is there a trick too it? this thing came with virtually no instructions and I've been trying to read on the net, however this is one issue I can't seem to find an answer to. If there's not a trick, than is there an easier option for removing them?

3rd question, I forgot to mention I also bought a tumbler, I bought treated media with it and it has done a great job on my 1k or so brasses, however, there is some residue left inside the casing that is virtually impossible to remove without extensive work, is this residue ok or should it all be cleaned out? If left how will it affect the performance of the powder?


Thanks again for any help you can give. Please, I ask that only experienced reloaders reply, no offense, but I don't want to blow myself up because you "Thought it would work."

 

[highlander 5]

Question 1 False.
Are you using military or comercial brass? Try screwing down the decapping rod so the pin goes thru the flash hole more. Residue in case should pose no problems. Have fun with you new hobby and load safely.

 

[tdowell]

At present I am using all federal .223 comercial brass, I have picked up some lake city but haven't done anything with it yet. That brings me to my next question, where is the crimp I keep reading about and what kind of tool di I need to remove it?

Thanks for all the help!!

 

[rcmodel]

You can ream them or swage them.
It should be covered in your reloading manual.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=468123&highlight=primer+crimp

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=467257&highlight=primer+crimp

rc

 

[Marlinreloader]

You will not see them in all brass. Like stated, the crimps are usually in military brass. The brass you have most likely does not have a primer crimp.

Marlinreloader

 

[rcmodel]

All Lake City GI brass is crimped.
And a lot of Federal commercial may be too because it is made by the same folks who make the Lake City..

From left: No crimp, Ring crimp, Stab crimp

rc

 

[rfwobbly]

1st question, I had originally bought some CCI small rifle magnum primers, however, I'm reloading for my AR15 and I have been told that they could be too soft and cause double fires. Is this the case or was I getting the high pressure pitch from a salesman?

Two things here.
A) Unless your cook book calls for them, we usually don't use magnum primers on 223. They can cause higher chamber pressures than your cook book allows. Be very careful here.
B) I believe what your salesman meant to say was that on an AR15 type gun the firing pin is not constrained. When using standard rifle primers you can get "slam fires" as the FP slams into the back of the cartridge on bolt closure. It depends on the gun, brand of primer, and your bolt spring. There are special military primers that are slightly thicker to stop this, however lots of people use standard small rifle primers with no ill effects.

2nd question, I've had some trouble getting the old primers out of the brass with the Lee kit, is there a trick too it? this thing came with virtually no instructions and I've been trying to read on the net, however this is one issue I can't seem to find an answer to. If there's not a trick, than is there an easier option for removing them?

First make sure your brass doesn't have the European type Berdan primers. Those aren't worth reloading. Then, progressively work your decapping pin downward until your boxer primers start consistently falling out.

3rd question, I forgot to mention I also bought a tumbler, I bought treated media with it and it has done a great job on my 1k or so brasses, however, there is some residue left inside the casing that is virtually impossible to remove without extensive work, is this residue ok or should it all be cleaned out? If left how will it affect the performance of the powder?

All you need to do is clean the exterior to keep from hurting your die set and your gun. How well you clean the primer pocket and case interior is up to you. For plinking and general shooting, no cleaning is required.

 

[tdowell]

Thanks for the great info guys!! I'm sure I'll have more questions at some point, Its great to know there are a group of people willing to reach out and help!

TD

 

[rfwobbly]

Glad to help.

Have fun and try not to "shoot your eye out".

 

[steve4102]

2nd question, I've had some trouble getting the old primers out of the brass with the Lee kit, is there a trick too it?

What do you mean by "trouble"? Are you lubing the outside of the case before re-sizing? What kind of lube are you using? As stated above, check for primer crimp. Remember, always Full Length size for your AR.

 

[Redneck with a 40]

I just started reloading 223 for my newly aquired Mini-14, man is it fun. My handload's destroy the factory stuff in accuracy too. 223 is a great handloading caliber, you'll never go back to factory ammo. In theory, you save money, but in reality, I won't, just shoot twice as much.

My very accurate Mini-14 load:

25.3 grains H-4895
Rem Case
CCI SR primer
Hornady 55 gr spire point, soft point

These group 2.5" at 100 yards very consistently, I had one group at 1.5" yesterday, awesome.

If you're going to be reloading a bunch of crimped primer brass, then get a Dillon super swage, cost about $100, best tool out there.

 

[FROGO207]

After reading through this post the most important piece of gear would be an INSTRUCTION MANUAL. Something like the Lee reloading manual II or one from the other sources that sell supplies. There are just so many things you can see and remember from the web. If you can reference the specific question in the book in a logical progression with hard won knowledge of someone else you will be a better/safer reloader. Mostly there is not a new or different way to do this just a slightly different recipe for your particular combo of components and weapon that when found will equal your "sweet spot" or accuracy load. Knowledge=safety.

 

[tdowell]

Sorry, should have clarified, I actually have 3 manuals and one on the way, I'm an information fanatic, wouldn't even think of trying this without one.

I have:
The ABC's of Reloading
Metallic Cartridge Reloading
Lymans reloading manual 49th edition

and
Lee MODERN RELOADING Second Edition is on the way.

to answer the other question, it was partly a case lube issue and partly a die adjustment. I have now deprimed 800 brass so far. It appears as though non of my LC brass has any crimp what so ever. I primed a few and tested them, all were good to go.

Also, Re: Small Rifle Magnum primers, when they sold them to me, they told me to back off my powder by about 3gr, does that sound right???

 

[nulfisin]

Master one good one first

The most important manual to master is the one you'll be using with your particular setup. Don't overload yourself with information from multiple manuals until you understand the first one. The manuals are similar in some respects, but different in others. Get the basics down. Then you can look at different perspectives from other manuals.

BTW, the ones you listed are all good starter pieces.

 

[Sport45]

Invest now in a case gauge. I use the ones made by Lyman. It's fairly easy to stick a loaded case in the chamber of an AR if it's not sized enough. (And it seems to me like the .223 is the easiest cartridge to not size enough.) Small base dies are rarely needed but often prescribed for correcting this.

Lyman Case Gauge

I haven't run across a case yet that stuck in the chamber after gauging okay in one of these.

 

[tdowell]

Invest now in a case gauge. I use the ones made by Lyman. It's fairly easy to stick a loaded case in the chamber of an AR if it's not sized enough. (And it seems to me like the .223 is the easiest cartridge to not size enough.) Small base dies are rarely needed but often prescribed for correcting this.

Lyman Case Gauge

I haven't run across a case yet that stuck in the chamber after gauging okay in one of these.

Thanks, I'll get one on the way today!