new to wheel guns

Status
Not open for further replies.
D

deadeye dick

Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,013
Location
Easley S.C.
I'm new to revolvers and have semi autos for cc. I just bought a new Ruger Blackhawk 61/2 in. barreled satin S/S in 38 sp. 357 mag. I ran 50 rounds of 38's through it and it shoots very nice.
The question I have is when I went to take it down for cleaning I had great difficulty removing to shaft to remove the cylinder. After pressing the pin release button I couldn't pull the shaft out by hand. I had to use rubber covered pliers to pull it out about 1 inch before it would move by hand. It is very snug Does the gun have to be broken in. Every thing else seems fine. Thanks, any help would be appreciated.
 
It'll get easier. I find I have to hold in the release pin with my right thumb and wiggle out the cylinder pin with my left. Sometimes I have to "bounce" my right thumb as well and hold my mouth just right while thinking pure thoughts on one of my new ones I currently have. The others slide out with ease. It will get easier. I also like to use RIG applied by fingertip on the cylinder pin. That and a drop of Remoil.
 
Oh yeah, forgot to mention.....welcome to the addiction. At 32, I prefer wheel guns and lever actions. I've got some plastic and an AR, those are fun, but for pure enjoyment, I love my wheel guns and lever actions. You should try to snap up an older Marlin in 357/38 as a companion to your Blackhawk. Wheel guns and lever actions have soul. Plastic leaves me feeling empty, but play a vital role.
 
The pin you refer to is called a base pin, and yes it can get sticky and difficult to remove.

My suggesting would be to use a grease rather than oil on the pin when you clean your gun. I use Mobil 1 bearing grease on the base pin of all of my Blackhawks and never have a problem removing the pin after shooting. The grease is a bit thicker and keeps the powder residue and carbon from getting too far under the base pin and gumming up the works.

One more thing to mention. After you shoot 38s in your .357 you should pull the cylinder and scrub the chambers out really well with a bronze brush. The 38, being a shorter case will leave what is known as a "crud ring" on the inside of the throat. If you try to shoot .357s after 38s the crud ring can make it difficult to chamber full length .357 rounds and more importantly cause chamber pressures to increase dramatically. The ring keeps the brass from being able to expand properly thus holding the bullet tighter.
 
To redline and doc08

Thanks for the good advice on cyl. cleaning. I have some gunslick graphite grease.I will try that.
As for lever actions I also love them. I have a Savage 99F in 308 that I bought new in 1965 for $115.00. It is 98%condition and is a tack driver even with the buckhorn sights.
 
osteodoc08 said:
Oh yeah, forgot to mention.....welcome to the addiction. At 32, I prefer wheel guns and lever actions. I've got some plastic and an AR, those are fun, but for pure enjoyment, I love my wheel guns and lever actions. You should try to snap up an older Marlin in 357/38 as a companion to your Blackhawk. Wheel guns and lever actions have soul. Plastic leaves me feeling empty, but play a vital role.
Click to expand...
AMEN!
 
as stated, they can be somewhat of a pain at times. Mine come out easy, but I usually have to jiggle things to get it back in place again...

I am now semi-auto free. I don't CC though, and I can see the plus of having a big mag if I did CC.

Once you start pulling off 50 yard and further shots with your wheel gun, you may find yourself a wheelgun junkie. It's certainly possible with semi's as well, but for me borders on impossible.

Enjoy your new revolver, ruger is top notch!
 
As 98Redline mentioned, about cleaning the "crud rings" out of the cylinder, after firing .38's in the .357 revolver.....get a .40 cal bronze brush, put it into a cordless drill, apply Hoppes to the brush liberally. Run the brush/w drill running into each cylinder hole, this will clean any and all crud ring out, in about 10 - 15 seconds, repeat after each shooting session.
 
Great idea on the bronze brush. Will get one today. Yes I did open the gate first. It is getting easier now. Thanks to all. Howie
 
Blackhawks make for very fine first-time wheelies.

As others have said, keep it oiled & don't be afraid to use a .22 brush on the hole that the base pin (shaft as the OP called it) goes in.

That hole is subject to fouling just as the cylinder & barrel are.
 
If you look you will see the head of the base pin is notched to slide along the radius of the barrel, sometimes the head of the pin will bind against the barrel if not pulled perfectly straight. A little grease in that notch helps the head of the base pin slide along the barrel.

Once you get it good and broken in and used to the operation it will ease up considerably .
 
Using a good solvent helps a great deal. Breakfree makes a bore solvent that dissoves carbon pretty fast. Dexron ATF also works but takes a little longer. Dexron with acetone (50/50) makes a great solvent. One trick I learned is to put a couple of drops on the base pin while the gun is still hot from shooting it. When you get home it will come apart much easier. I keep a little bottle of CLP in my bag just for that purpose. Welcome to the wonderful world of single action revolvers. You is hooked now.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top