New WASR-10 AK with refinished wood *pics*

[Dentite]

Hey gang,

I picked up my rough-and-tumble WASR-10 from J&G a couple weeks ago and I this weekend I finished up on the wood.

This is about the cheapest entry to the AKM/AK clone game. Sure, the finish is a little rough, but it everything is straight and it goes bang every time.

The wood was borderline sliver danger haha. I was able to fit the wood to the metal quite a bit better than where it started.

Before:











After:





Cleaned up the bayonet...love the old patina of the metal.



I also picked up a P64 the same day:



The finish on the wood is sanding to 350grit, then Minwax "Gun Stock" stain...I also considered "Sedona Red" and "Mahogony Red" but I like the more subtle red of the "Gun Stock".

After staining, I used Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" which is not in fact a true tung oil, but a blend of oil with dryers, etc added. So the purists probably wouldn't want this finish on a fine double gun, but for an AK it's much easier and less time consuming than a true hand rubbed tung oil.

Probably 4-5 coats with wetsanding 400 grit while applying finish. Smooth, but not glossy...I think it came out pretty decent.

It's interesting to see how the grain/layers of laminate changes with removing wood when comparing the before and after grain.

 

[Ohio Gun Guy]

Very Nice.... I like your choice. Good work.

I did the Red look on mine.


now the cugir factory has 1,000,000 more for you to refinish.

 

[JDGray]

Looks great! Looks just like my old WASR 10 Plywood looks pretty good spiffed up!

 

[Ohio Gun Guy]

Here's mine....not a great photo.

 

[Dentite]

Those look great guys. BTW I used to live in Columbus...went to school at OSU. GO BUCKEYES!

 

[jcollins1007]

Of course this is old intel now, but you could've just taken the wood parts off and skipped the whole masking tape thing... looks good though. I went with the sedona red.

 

[Dentite]

Yeah, as you can see I did remove the wood parts at later stages but I taped off the metal when I was fitting the wood to the metal. This way I could do the bulk of the shaping and I could tell exactly how close I was getting to the metal. I shaped the wood until I started to get into the first layer of tape. At that point I had the fit pretty close, that's when I removed the wood and fine tuned the fit.

If I was just sanding and finishing I would have removed the wood from the get go.

Thanks,

John

 

[trigga]

sexy, looks a lot like mines.