Newb Question: Steel cases vs. brass cases vs. others

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brufener

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I have a bit of a newbie question. I have noticed that most ammo uses brass cases, but there are other ammos that use steel cases, aluminum cases, brass plated steel cases, nickel plated cases, polymer coated cases, etc.

What is the difference between the cases? Why would one kind of case be preferable to another?

I do not reload (yet). Does the case material only matter for reloading?

If it matters, I shoot two guns - a Ruger Security Six (38/357), and a Taurus Millenium Pro 9mm. Is there any reason to prefer one kind of case over another for either of these guns?

Thanks,

Bryce
 
steel cases---economy (as a rule, non-reloadable)

aluminum----economy (as a rule, non-reloadable, and easier wear on the gun, but is softer and not as durable, more susceptable to dents and dings)

Brass plated steel--- economy (can be reloaded, and easier wear on the gun) also sturdier than the aluminum cases. Some semi autos don't like aluminum but the brass plated cases might work better.

Nickel plated brass---better corrosion resistance than the other alloys, but usually more expensive. They are reloadable, but the nickel plating will sometimes flake off after a few reloadings.

Polymer coated steel---economy (polymer protects the steel from corrosion)

brass----the best all around alloy. Fairly economical, reloadable, durable, easy on the gun, easy to form other calibers from. However it tarnishes over time, but can be cleaned in a case tumbler before being reloaded.

Revolvers as a rule, are not as case type or case length sensitive as semi autos. In the wheelguns, cases are not subjected to all of the mechanical movements and cycling through the action, so the case material itself doesn't matter too much in the wheelies, as long as they function normally. (No splits or separations). Semis on the other hand, can be picky as to what will feed smoothly through the action. Case length, bullet shape, and overall cartridge length are more critical. And occasionally the case material might make a difference in the semi. A friend of mine had a Taurus 9mm that just would not reliably cycle the CCI Blazer aluminum ammo. The only thing to do is try your ammo of choice in your guns.
 
The only case materail that has not worked as far as I know is copper. The US army used to use copper cased 45-70 rounds and they had a bad habbit of sticking in the chamber.
 
Nickel plated brass---better corrosion resistance than the other alloys, but usually more expensive. They are reloadable, but the nickel plating will sometimes flake off after a few reloadings.

I concur, and will add this: nickel-plated cartridge cases tend to split at the case mouth sooner. I have no idea why.
 
Standing Wolf said:
I concur, and will add this: nickel-plated cartridge cases tend to split at the case mouth sooner. I have no idea why.
I've heard the nickel is more brittle than brass. That would explain the splitting, especially after being reloaded a couple of times.

I don't reload nickel, primarily because I've read that when the nickel flakes off it tends to collect in the dies which then get scored because the nickel is harder than the steel/carbide.
 
Also, some ranges don't allow anything except brass cases. Since many people don't gather their own cases, the range does and normally sells it, and some don't like having to seperate out the steel cases.
 
Car Knocker-

Good Point...

Berdan primed cases can in fact be reloaded. A special de-priming pin must be used, and probably hand indexed to the two flashholes, and berdan primers also have to be used. Not really worth the extra trouble and expense, when the reloading standard is boxer.The only reason I suggested that the brass plated cases can be reloaded, is because the steel berdan primed cases would be kinda tough on reloading dies. The carbide dies could probably hold up, but steel dies most likely would not. However the brass plated cases would run through the dies much like brass would, and not be as abrasive as straight steel cases. Still...all in all, straight brass is the alloy of choice, and for the vast majority of reloaders, brass, and nickel plated brass, will be the only types of cases reloaded.
 
mbartel said:
Berdan primed cases can in fact be reloaded. A special de-priming pin must be used, and probably hand indexed to the two flashholes, and berdan primers also have to be used.

The following tool would be a lot easier to use for decapping than trying to index a punch into an offset hole by feel.

http://www.rcbs.com/default.asp?menu=1&s1=4&s2=3&s3=35

Then there's always the hydraulic method of popping the primers out. Messy, but effective.

Would I be correct in thinking that the brass-plated steel-cased ammo you are referring to is imported surplus? I've just never seen any brass-plated stuff, just lacquer or polymer coated and the copper-washed stuff.
 
There have also been some reports that certain aluminum casings tend to fall apart, especially if stored too long in a magazine. However, I have never had such experiences although CCI Blazer is pretty much all I shoot.

If you do not reload, CCI Blazer from Academy or Natchez are the best deal, unless your range allows Wolf ammo.
 
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