Opinions of S&W Model 617 with aluminum cylinder?
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Sheldon
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Do a search on the Smith and Wesson forum. I did and saw this (amongst many ) http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/530103904/m/2291097551?r=7081029551#7081029551 I have the steel cylindered version and it's a fun gun to shoot. Not sure if the aluminum is less durable in the long run or not, but figured the steel version might be better. They mention a 6 oz difference in weight between the aluminum and steel versions if that's a concern.
Bullet Bob
Member
Mine is closing in on 4000 rounds without a problem to date. I love the weight and balance, and it's as accurate as the other two in this picture (a '48 & '55 K22):
BBA
Member
I have a 17-8 with the 10 shot cylinder. The only thing that I found is the chambers need polishing after alot of shots. The fouling seems to build up and ejecting the cases gets difficult. General cleaning is fine, but after thousands of rounds, it progressively gets more difficult to eject shells.
deadin
Member
I would say it depends on your intended use. If you are going to carry it alot and shoot it little (i.e. a "pot gun" carried while hunting with occasional trips to the range) I would get the aluminum. If you are going to pound brick after brick of ammo through it week in and week out, go for the steel. I agree with Sheldon, steel is just going to last longer and give less problems in the long run. (However, that 6 oz. can seem like 6 lbs. at the end of a long day. 
)
Dean
)Dean
BulletBob:
1)What do you use to clean the exterior of the aluminum cylinder with(Including the front of the cylinder?)?
2)Do you think that a Lead-Away cloth could be used on the front of the aluminum alloy cylinder, without harming it, in any way? I ask this, in case these cylinders might have a clearcoat finish on them(Do you think they do have this finish?)?
1)What do you use to clean the exterior of the aluminum cylinder with(Including the front of the cylinder?)?
2)Do you think that a Lead-Away cloth could be used on the front of the aluminum alloy cylinder, without harming it, in any way? I ask this, in case these cylinders might have a clearcoat finish on them(Do you think they do have this finish?)?
Bullet Bob
Member
I use an old toothbrush dipped in Hoppe's. I don't try to get every last vestige of firing off, just the heavy fouling. That's pretty much true of all my revolvers. I don't know about a clearcat finish; I think the titanium cylinder of my 646 has some sort of coating, but it gets the same treatment as my 617, with no problems so far. I wouldn't use lead away on non-steel or blued surfaces, but then again I don't use one all so I'm not the voice of experience either. I'd guess S&W could tell you if the aluminum cylinders have a coating or not.
Bullet Bob:
1)Thanks!
2)I just contacted Smith & Wesson and following is the information that they gave me, regarding cleaning the aluminum alloy cylinder(etc.):
a)There is no coating on the Model 617's with the aluminum alloy cylinder-as it is just has a polished finish. So, no worries about any finish peeling off!
b)Do not use an Lead-Away cloth to clean the cylinder-nor, anything else that is abrasive(Mild or otherwise?)!
c)Do not use bronze bristle brushes to clean the cylinder holes(Nor, stainless steel brushes!)as these will scratch the aluminum! For brushes, use only nylon bristle brushes!
d)Birchwood-Casey "Sheath" is good to use to clean the cylinder bores with because it doesn't leave a wet, oily film-but, it drys completely-and, although this is a dry lubricant, this won't cause the .22 caliber cases to back up in the cylinder to bind up the gun during shooting(Like a wet lubricant will do!)!
e)There were no durability or timing problems with these 617's with the aluminum cylinder-because the ejector star is the same steel one, that is used with the stainless(10-shot cylinder)! Also, since the aluminum cylinder has less inertia during rapid firing than does the stainless steel cylinder, there isn't any more of a problem with peening of the cylinder bolt stop notches, than would be with the stainless steel cylinder!
f)That these model 617's with the aluminum cylinder were only discontinued because of poor sales-but, not because of any durability problems!
1)Thanks!
2)I just contacted Smith & Wesson and following is the information that they gave me, regarding cleaning the aluminum alloy cylinder(etc.):
a)There is no coating on the Model 617's with the aluminum alloy cylinder-as it is just has a polished finish. So, no worries about any finish peeling off!
b)Do not use an Lead-Away cloth to clean the cylinder-nor, anything else that is abrasive(Mild or otherwise?)!
c)Do not use bronze bristle brushes to clean the cylinder holes(Nor, stainless steel brushes!)as these will scratch the aluminum! For brushes, use only nylon bristle brushes!
d)Birchwood-Casey "Sheath" is good to use to clean the cylinder bores with because it doesn't leave a wet, oily film-but, it drys completely-and, although this is a dry lubricant, this won't cause the .22 caliber cases to back up in the cylinder to bind up the gun during shooting(Like a wet lubricant will do!)!
e)There were no durability or timing problems with these 617's with the aluminum cylinder-because the ejector star is the same steel one, that is used with the stainless(10-shot cylinder)! Also, since the aluminum cylinder has less inertia during rapid firing than does the stainless steel cylinder, there isn't any more of a problem with peening of the cylinder bolt stop notches, than would be with the stainless steel cylinder!
f)That these model 617's with the aluminum cylinder were only discontinued because of poor sales-but, not because of any durability problems!
Quote: “f) That these model 617's with the aluminum cylinder were only discontinued because of poor sales-but, not because of any durability problems!”
Surprise? I don’t think so. I was reading stories how 10-shot steel cylinder could not be manufactured because of the problems getting bores straight in the steel. Hard to believe! Must be ”el cheapo” approach, created by one of those short sighted pin heads, thinking that buyers are stupid enough that just S&W label is enough to get the product selling. I bet that whole bunch of guys at S&W were warning the “genius” who made that decision not to gamble with company’s reputation, but were told to shut up and carry on. Call me old fashion stubborn mule, but there is no way that ANY of the firearms with main parts made from aluminum will ever get into my house.
Surprise? I don’t think so. I was reading stories how 10-shot steel cylinder could not be manufactured because of the problems getting bores straight in the steel. Hard to believe! Must be ”el cheapo” approach, created by one of those short sighted pin heads, thinking that buyers are stupid enough that just S&W label is enough to get the product selling. I bet that whole bunch of guys at S&W were warning the “genius” who made that decision not to gamble with company’s reputation, but were told to shut up and carry on. Call me old fashion stubborn mule, but there is no way that ANY of the firearms with main parts made from aluminum will ever get into my house.
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